99 Civic EM1
99 stock JDM B20 70k miles, b16 hydro tranny 150k+
CRP log mani, 38mm Tial wastegate
T3/T04e 57trim, 60 a/r comp, 63 a/r turbine, stage 3 wheel
CRP 3" downpipe with 3" McCord Cutout
2.5 Carsound Cat, 2.25 custom exhaust piping into 2.5 Magnaflow Oval muffler
TiAl bov, 38mm TiAl wastegate dumping to atmosphere
2.25 charge piping from throttle body to IC, 2.25 from IC to turbo
Edelbrock FMIC from the Edelbrock turbo kit
DSM 450s
Sun Auto Hyper Ground and Voltage system
B16 throttle body
Hondata IM gasket
CTR crank pulley
Clutchmasters Stage 4, Fidanza light as hell flywheel
Ebay Traction bars, Drag DR16s (Rota GT3 style) on Falken RT615s
KYB AGXs, Neuspeed Sport Springs
PLX wideband, Chrome Pro street tuned by Phearable.net on 8.7psi


Some pics:











Best run through full exhaust, tire pressure at 30psi (hitting boost cut with open dp ) : 13.6 @ 105, 2.32 60ft, 8.9 1/8 mile, launched at 3700-3800, shifting at 7200

Open to any suggestions, comments, etc. Within the next month or so the snail's gonna get swapped out for a Precision SC61, Crower 403s, Crower valvesprings and retainers, Skunk2 cam gears, 3 angle valve job, full tuning session and upping the boost some

 

Nice setup. Those 16's looks so good.

 

Thanks man, they're 15inch and even cheaper than the Rota GT3s so I jumped on em

 

You'll have to let me know what you put down # wise with your B20. I pushed over 300 @ about 18psi. @ 15psi I put down 280hp and 255trq. I ran it @ 15lbs for over a year without any issues.

B20+boost = waaaaaaaaaaay fun.

Blaze

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Blaze45 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

B20+boost = waaaaaaaaaaay fun.

Blaze </TD></TR></TABLE>

I hear you on that one, Im hoping to get some dyno time soon and see what happens

 

SC61 for that b20? you better have internals planned for the future im not tryin to be a dick but that just sounds like pushing the envelope. i admire your build i was thinking of doing something very similar its nice to have a more linear tq curve. Yeah if your staying with the stock nonvtec head new cams and some headmods will benefit you nicely since the name of the game is volumetric efficency.

 

 

sleeves are a must for higher 12-14+ psi on a b20

just something that you might want to invest for.


Modified by itslogics at 1:43 PM 7/24/2006

 

B20 turbo, woohoo

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by itslogics &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sleeves are a must for higher 12-14+ psi on a b20

just something that you might want to invest for.


Modified by itslogics at 1:43 PM 7/24/2006</TD></TR></TABLE>

No they are not. I ran 18psi a quite a few times in the last 6 months that I had my B20 turbo and I never had an issue. I would of ran more boost to prove people wrong but 450s were maxing out at the fuel pressure I was at and I was pushing it as it was. I really wish I could of gotten my hands on some 550s tho.

 

Good to see the whip out, you need to let me drive that thing so we can get in the 12's. Chie

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Blaze45 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No they are not. I ran 18psi a quite a few times in the last 6 months that I had my B20 turbo and I never had an issue. I would of ran more boost to prove people wrong but 450s were maxing out at the fuel pressure I was at and I was pushing it as it was. I really wish I could of gotten my hands on some 550s tho. </TD></TR></TABLE>

too bad you didnt...because the percentage of people running that much boost on stock internals usually end up cracking sleeves! i would take a rough gues(which is a GOOD guees) and say 95% that "push" the limits on the b20 crack sleeves. b18's are better for boost ... just going off facts.

 

plus it depends on what size turbo youre talking about...if youre running a baby turbo then 20psi aint ****...lol!

but back on topic...NICE BUILD! Clean *** car!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by itslogics &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sleeves are a must for higher 12-14+ psi on a b20

just something that you might want to invest for.


Modified by itslogics at 1:43 PM 7/24/2006</TD></TR></TABLE>
think about power levels and not PSI

 

Well it was a turbonetics t3/t4 57 trim 63ar stg 3 wheel, so it flowed decent. 680cfm @ like 12psi or something. The boost gauge in my avatar is @ 17psi btw. And I didnt run 18psi everyday. Just on the weekends I would turn the boost up a few pounds and drop the tire pressure and have some fun. Besides @ 18psi I wasnt making some amazing hp/trq. #. Just over 300hp. BTW any word from the laywers on your case? Id really like to see you get some $ out of a court case. Plus the fact that the car had been wrecked 2 times already...

sorry to the thread starter, kind of turned into a threadjack lol.

 

Yea I probably wont push more than 12 psi on track days and sh*t with some higher octane mix. Im curious to see what this SC61 will do on low boost levels, just got it in the mail today. We'll see what happens once I slap the head on & get her tuned.

Thanks for all the comments & input guys keep em comin!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Blaze45 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
sorry to the thread starter, kind of turned into a threadjack lol. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Its all good, your setup caught my eye when you first posted, did you sell the whip?

 

My friends B20b setup has been boosting 16-17psi for 3 years at 350-360whp range. no problems. I sprayed a 80shot to 100shot on my b20 from 02-04, and boosted it all of 2004 at 10-15psi with no problems. Another friend has a 11.5:1 CRVtec with a 120 shot that runs consistant high 11's at 120 traps for 2 years.

Honestly I think a lot of sleeve failure is due to a bad tune. The sleeve differnce between an LS and B20 are slight and at any higher HP number if you knock on a stock block, usaly something will give.

Just because some1 claims to tune ur b20 doesnt mean they did a good job on it. I had a Sleeved/Built CRVtec tuned last winter, Tuned. It was knocking the whole time and the tunor said it was because he thought it was a 9:1 engine when in fact it was a 10:1 engine. Wich goes to show, it doesnt matter what compression or style motor you have... It shouldnt have been knocking if done correctly. But if it were a regular person and a regular stock CRVtec, it would have been ANOTHER B20 block that would have cracked and blamed on the sleeves and not the tune.
[/rant]

B20's are nice motors, I'll support them anyday.

 

PM'd you blazin99si.


B20's are nice motors, I'll support them anyday.


Me too.

 

HOLY VACUUM LINE MESS BATMAN!

Nice car

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Public Enemy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">HOLY VACUUM LINE MESS BATMAN!

Nice car </TD></TR></TABLE>

It's about time someone mentioned the cluster-expletive. Read up on B20 sleeves and learn they are not the same at all as B18 sleeves. Who has that link about how they suck? Anyways aside from that I bet the thing rips real good. I've always wanted to put a B16 tranny on a bigger motor like that, torque and gearing is sexy.

 

You’re correct, they are different. The design is goofy putting excessive heat on areas of the sleeve making it more prone to knock. The Design is also more "brittle" as what I’ve heard from one link, making them more prone to crack DURING detonation.

We (as in all Honda gurus) have come a long way from way of the past. Things that we now know that we used to not know are amazing. Who would have thought that you could make 630whp from a 100% stock B16? Who would have thought that you can boost a D series without changing head gaskets monthly? Who would have known if WE weren’t the ones who pushed the envelopes finding out the limits and how things can/will work.

Sleeve design doesn’t crack sleeves, the detonation does. *tune*

630HP doesn’t break motors, detonation does. *tune*

SOHC D series engine design doesn’t blow head gaskets, detonation does. *tune*

 

May I ask why you're planning on doing so much work to the head instead of throwing forged internals and ARP studs in it and calling it a day? You'll get more safety and flexibility from the pistons and rods than you will from all that valvetrain stuff on this motor and head.

 

Jdmsleeper thanks for the personal input on b20s. This motor has not let me down yet. Been thru nitrous and now boost. AFRs are between 10.8-11.2 at full throttle up top. Last compression test done last week was 190-210 across the board.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Archidictus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">May I ask why you're planning on doing so much work to the head instead of throwing forged internals and ARP studs in it and calling it a day? You'll get more safety and flexibility from the pistons and rods than you will from all that valvetrain stuff on this motor and head.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Honestly, got the head and valvetrain for less than the piston/rod combo not to mention the machine work/labor and Im not confident enough to swap the pistons/rods out myself yet. That and I want to see how far I can go with the stock setup, without going crazy of course. Most importantly.......IM BROKE BIIIIIIIATCH from all the boosted madness to afford paying to get it built by someone else, again at least for the time being lol. But thanks for the input nonetheless.

Oh and yes my engine bay is horrible, cluttered, etc. If I knew how to wiretuck that would be great but since I dont Ill just have to try to clean sh*t up!!

 

If you clean the engine bay up then it will be slow