a/c blows warm even on highway
94 turbo ej1.
I have an autozone slim fan on the opposite side of stock location, so the a/c core is basically naked. At first I thought my a/c was warm because the Turbo was heat soaking the bare core, even just idling for 10 mins I couldnt touch the core. so I made a heat sheild and the core now stays at ambient temps even if I drive hard. but the a/c is still not warm
What else could it be? Im pretty sure I dont have an a/c leak. I have two 12oz cans of freon in the system should I add a 3rd can?
I have an autozone slim fan on the opposite side of stock location, so the a/c core is basically naked. At first I thought my a/c was warm because the Turbo was heat soaking the bare core, even just idling for 10 mins I couldnt touch the core. so I made a heat sheild and the core now stays at ambient temps even if I drive hard. but the a/c is still not warm
What else could it be? Im pretty sure I dont have an a/c leak. I have two 12oz cans of freon in the system should I add a 3rd can?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boostage »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">94 turbo ej1.
I have an autozone slim fan on the opposite side of stock location, so the a/c core is basically naked. At first I thought my a/c was warm because the Turbo was heat soaking the bare core, even just idling for 10 mins I couldnt touch the core. so I made a heat sheild and the core now stays at ambient temps even if I drive hard. but the a/c is still not warm
What else could it be? Im pretty sure I dont have an a/c leak. I have two 12oz cans of freon in the system should I add a 3rd can?</TD></TR></TABLE>
are you sure that the fan is blowing in the right direction? when the a/c is turned on the fan comes on as well for all the time the a/c is on. if you have it blowing the opposite direction that its supposed to and the car is moving the oppotite direction of what the fan blows, that will equal out the air flow so the net sirflow would b close to zero. turn ur a/c on and make sure the fan is blowing air from the outside INTO the engine bay and not from the enginebay out through the front of the car
I have an autozone slim fan on the opposite side of stock location, so the a/c core is basically naked. At first I thought my a/c was warm because the Turbo was heat soaking the bare core, even just idling for 10 mins I couldnt touch the core. so I made a heat sheild and the core now stays at ambient temps even if I drive hard. but the a/c is still not warm
What else could it be? Im pretty sure I dont have an a/c leak. I have two 12oz cans of freon in the system should I add a 3rd can?</TD></TR></TABLE>
are you sure that the fan is blowing in the right direction? when the a/c is turned on the fan comes on as well for all the time the a/c is on. if you have it blowing the opposite direction that its supposed to and the car is moving the oppotite direction of what the fan blows, that will equal out the air flow so the net sirflow would b close to zero. turn ur a/c on and make sure the fan is blowing air from the outside INTO the engine bay and not from the enginebay out through the front of the car
fan is blowing in teh right direction, it blows towards teh turbo, I can feel the air passing thru the core. would the heater control valve affect a/c if it only opens 3/4 wide when open?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IslandSi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">your heating valve is open 3/4 of the way? if so, you just answered your own question as to why your ac is hot.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I just found out that when the a/c is on the HCV is supposed to be closed, which it does, so that cant be it. open is only for the heater so coolant can flow to the heater.
I just found out that when the a/c is on the HCV is supposed to be closed, which it does, so that cant be it. open is only for the heater so coolant can flow to the heater.
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From: Rochester, New York -> Santa Clara, CA
I'd make sure u got power up to the compressor, then turn ur car on and turn the AC on, see if it kicks on... I dun have much exp with hondas, but if the AC compressor isn't in teh back put ur hand on it (not the belt part) when somebody turns the compressor on, u'll feel it twitch when the clutch kicks in, u should also hear the idle adjust a bit for the extra load...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syndacate »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'd make sure u got power up to the compressor, then turn ur car on and turn the AC on, see if it kicks on... I dun have much exp with hondas, but if the AC compressor isn't in teh back put ur hand on it (not the belt part) when somebody turns the compressor on, u'll feel it twitch when the clutch kicks in, u should also hear the idle adjust a bit for the extra load...</TD></TR></TABLE>
its right at the front on the deivers side so its easy to get to. u MIGHT have to take the power steering pump belt off to feel it tho, u should be able to hear it click on and the engine slow down a little instead.
its right at the front on the deivers side so its easy to get to. u MIGHT have to take the power steering pump belt off to feel it tho, u should be able to hear it click on and the engine slow down a little instead.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Rochester, New York -> Santa Clara, CA
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by imadigitalgod »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
its right at the front on the deivers side so its easy to get to. u MIGHT have to take the power steering pump belt off to feel it tho, u should be able to hear it click on and the engine slow down a little instead. </TD></TR></TABLE>
It'll slow down for like half a second, if u see the cluste rthe RPM's will dip a **** hair...then the engine will adjust for the extra load and the RPM's will go back to ur regular idling part...
its right at the front on the deivers side so its easy to get to. u MIGHT have to take the power steering pump belt off to feel it tho, u should be able to hear it click on and the engine slow down a little instead. </TD></TR></TABLE>
It'll slow down for like half a second, if u see the cluste rthe RPM's will dip a **** hair...then the engine will adjust for the extra load and the RPM's will go back to ur regular idling part...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by duggy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did you take teh compressor off when you did the swap?
if you did, you can't just put freon into the car. you must vacumm all the air out, and then add freon.</TD></TR></TABLE>
No i didnt do that, I will. I have to go to a shop anyway i just might have a leak, I added another can and the guage read low, so I just might have a leak.
if you did, you can't just put freon into the car. you must vacumm all the air out, and then add freon.</TD></TR></TABLE>
No i didnt do that, I will. I have to go to a shop anyway i just might have a leak, I added another can and the guage read low, so I just might have a leak.
did u check the pressure while the car is running when it read low? if not u should have ur car running with the a/c on max and then take a reading.. i just bought a vacuum pump for $60 over ebay(brand new almost...the person that bought it got it fro the wrong application) and then the manifold set from Harbor Freight online for $29(i still dont see how tho, it comes with everything, the adapters and all...but the actual local harbor freight store wanted $62...).
good luck with finding a solution to ur prob
good luck with finding a solution to ur prob
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From: Rochester, New York -> Santa Clara, CA
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by imadigitalgod »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do u hear a 'click' when it adjusts the ide and goes back to normal? or only a click when u turn the a/c on?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
naw, u mainly "feel" the click if u have ur hand on it...here's another thing, do it in the dark with ur headlights on, ur headlights will dim for a second because of the additional load on the engine and then will brighten back up..that's probably the best way, if htey don't dim that could mean one of two things..
1. The AC compressor clutch is bad and it's not engaging the pulley to spin the compressor
2. The compressor's shot in the ***, but then the lights'll still dim because the AC compressor will be turned & additional load put on .. but the compressor won't do anything
Just put it in a garage or out at night and turn ur headlights - high beams on...see if they dim when you put on the AC
</TD></TR></TABLE>
naw, u mainly "feel" the click if u have ur hand on it...here's another thing, do it in the dark with ur headlights on, ur headlights will dim for a second because of the additional load on the engine and then will brighten back up..that's probably the best way, if htey don't dim that could mean one of two things..
1. The AC compressor clutch is bad and it's not engaging the pulley to spin the compressor
2. The compressor's shot in the ***, but then the lights'll still dim because the AC compressor will be turned & additional load put on .. but the compressor won't do anything
Just put it in a garage or out at night and turn ur headlights - high beams on...see if they dim when you put on the AC
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