Parking/Emergency brake not holding car 1998 Accord manual trans
Thanks for looking, need your help.
I have a 98 Accord stick shift. Today, my car ended rolling into the neighbors front yard.
After I parked my car on a slight incline, I pulled the parking brake. The car shortly later rolled down hill. That is the first time it has ever done that. When I opened the door, I noticed the emergency handle was up (pulled) like I thought.
I noticed that I can pull the parking brake higher than normal. I verified the back brakes have plenty of pads left. The rear brakes are rotors NOT drums.
How do I adjust the parking brake so it holds the car in place when parked?
Thank you very much
I have a 98 Accord stick shift. Today, my car ended rolling into the neighbors front yard.
After I parked my car on a slight incline, I pulled the parking brake. The car shortly later rolled down hill. That is the first time it has ever done that. When I opened the door, I noticed the emergency handle was up (pulled) like I thought.
I noticed that I can pull the parking brake higher than normal. I verified the back brakes have plenty of pads left. The rear brakes are rotors NOT drums.
How do I adjust the parking brake so it holds the car in place when parked?
Thank you very much
In time the e-brake cable gets stretched. There is a parking brake adjustment nut under the rear console lid (in the arm rest).
you should get ur rear drums checked out they play a big factor in holding the e brakes tension, also thas where ur braking power comes from wit the e brake
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by arielb1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The rear brakes are rotors NOT drums.
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start parking like what the DMV manual states:
turn steering wheel toward curb when downhill/ away from curb when uphill... etc.
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raise back end up, disengage parking brake, spin da tire by hand, have some1 apply brakes... verify that the brake piston stop the spinning/ working properly repeat on other side.
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then proceed to what stinker504 has stated to compensate for stretching/aging brake cables...
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when you check the brake pads on both sides of the rotor, did you also check for a seized sliding caliper pin(s) as well?
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make sure u check/double check those things 1st before adjusting the cable. my wife's car didn't require adjusting of the cables for quite some time.... unless a rear brake service is required.
turn steering wheel toward curb when downhill/ away from curb when uphill... etc.
----------------------
raise back end up, disengage parking brake, spin da tire by hand, have some1 apply brakes... verify that the brake piston stop the spinning/ working properly repeat on other side.
---------------------
then proceed to what stinker504 has stated to compensate for stretching/aging brake cables...
---------------------
when you check the brake pads on both sides of the rotor, did you also check for a seized sliding caliper pin(s) as well?
--------------------------
make sure u check/double check those things 1st before adjusting the cable. my wife's car didn't require adjusting of the cables for quite some time.... unless a rear brake service is required.
Thanks all, and Stinker too!
Do I have to take the console/arm rest behind the stick shift apart?
Once I raise the car to check the rear brakes, how do I check for seized sliding caliper pins. I know what they are, but what am I looking for to notice what is wrong?
thanks for your time and help...good Karma to you all.
Do I have to take the console/arm rest behind the stick shift apart?
Once I raise the car to check the rear brakes, how do I check for seized sliding caliper pins. I know what they are, but what am I looking for to notice what is wrong?
thanks for your time and help...good Karma to you all.
In the bottom compartment underneath the armrest, you can pry up the plastic floor. You should be able to get to the adjuster nut from there. (On the other side of that nut, you'll see a spring around a single cable that runs to the e-brake.) When adjusted properly, the travel of the e-brake lever should be 6-9 clicks. Also make sure the brakes don't drag when the e-brake is released.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by arielb1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Once I raise the car to check the rear brakes, how do I check for seized sliding caliper pins. I know what they are, but what am I looking for to notice what is wrong?</TD></TR></TABLE>
after u chock the front wheels, then raise the back end up... spin the wheels, oops deja vu...
only other way is to try to remove them & check for grease clean them, regrease, torque them back on to factory specs...
heck, might as well check the inner side pads since they're hard to see when they're assembled.
my bet; u got thinning brake pads?
Once I raise the car to check the rear brakes, how do I check for seized sliding caliper pins. I know what they are, but what am I looking for to notice what is wrong?</TD></TR></TABLE>
after u chock the front wheels, then raise the back end up... spin the wheels, oops deja vu...
only other way is to try to remove them & check for grease clean them, regrease, torque them back on to factory specs...
heck, might as well check the inner side pads since they're hard to see when they're assembled.
my bet; u got thinning brake pads?
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