How many of you use and monitor your air / fuel with a wide-band o2?
The stock o2 crapped out after 11 hours on the dyno with the JRSC, so its either going to be another factory o2 sensor or go with a wide-band.

I want to get some input on whether most people just stick with their tune and drive worry free, or if you constantly monitor the air / fuel with a wide-band.

kev

 

It never hurts to have added security. OEM sensor~100, wbo2 with display ~300...

Not that youll be close eyeing it on track, but if you have some sort of warning light, or audible, itll tell you if something happens.

going of the general consensus of turbo cars on a roadcourse, there is a ton of other **** that can/usually does go wrong.

Id guess a JRSC would get ya some of the ill effects that a turbo car will get you on track, but I dont have any experience with that.

 

Well, I am naturally aspirated, but I use a wideband O2 (AEM-EMS) and it is always running.

 

If you do go with the wideband, make sure it has a "narrow-band" output to fool the engine computer.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kb58 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you do go with the wideband, make sure it has a "narrow-band" output to fool the engine computer.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That is if you dont have hondata, or another standalone unit already.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kb58 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you do go with the wideband, make sure it has a "narrow-band" output to fool the engine computer.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The AEM only uses the wideband.

 

True, though the original poster doesn't say what ECU he's using.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kb58 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">True, though the original poster doesn't say what ECU he's using.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have the Hondata S200

 

I too run a wideband. But i'm turboe'd. Honestly if i was N/A, i'd probably wouldn't bother. I personaly do check my guages, not often, but when i'm going down the straight aways, i glance at the wide band, and temps and all that. However, it is a good tool to use in diagnosing your motor.

 

I have the AEM UEGO 6-in-1 gauge (got it for $289 at Jeg's)... It has a narrowband emulation mode to replace the stock O2 sensor, but I find that the A/F just goes swinging back and forth in it's attempt to hold 14.7:1. I think the wideband responds faster than the stock sensor, so the ECU's compensation is off. I decided to just keep the stock O2 sensor hooked up to the ECU, and that works a lot better. To use the wideband in place of the stock sensor, you'd also have to do something to keep the ECU from throwing a CEL for the lack of the O2 heater circuit.

 

hondata 200 I know has a disable for 02 heater sensor

 

I am running the AEM UEGO and the stock primary O2 sensor with Hondata.

Come to think of it, that sensor is 8 years old and has survived quite some abuse! I was running EGT's around 1800 for a while...

-Chris

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris F &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am running the AEM UEGO and the stock primary O2 sensor with Hondata. </TD></TR></TABLE>

So you opted for a second bung using 2 sensors?
That would mean that you have the hondata reading off of the primary and then just have the AEM UEGO installed for your own monitoring?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ITR 1102 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So you opted for a second bung using 2 sensors?
That would mean that you have the hondata reading off of the primary and then just have the AEM UEGO installed for your own monitoring?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Right. 2 bungs in the downpipe, right next to each other.

 

I keep an eye on AFR, water temp, and oil pressure. I think any time you boost a car you have to be more vigilant. I need to add EGT to that mix, just haven't gotten around to it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ITR 1102 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hondata 200 I know has a disable for 02 heater sensor</TD></TR></TABLE>

You should not even run closed loop with a boosted car anyways. At part throttle and with a bit of boost, the ECU is still aiming for 14.7:1 AFR. Unless Hondata offers some sort of load-dependent closed loop disengage feature (Crome does). Run it open loop and yes, a wideband is a good thing to have.

 

I run uberdata and stick with my tune and drive worry free. O2 sensor is disabled. AFR and timing are tuned conservative. I've done several HPDEs with no tuning related engine problems.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ITR 1102 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I want to get some input on whether most people just stick with their tune and drive worry free, or if you constantly monitor the air / fuel with a wide-band.

kev</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nfn15037 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You should not even run closed loop with a boosted car anyways. At part throttle and with a bit of boost, the ECU is still aiming for 14.7:1 AFR. Unless Hondata offers some sort of load-dependent closed loop disengage feature (Crome does). Run it open loop and yes, a wideband is a good thing to have.</TD></TR></TABLE>

There's really no problem running closed loop with a boosted car, even if it's in boost at the time, as long as it's not in closed loop when there's a bunch of load on the engine. With the stock settings for the open-loop/closed-loop cross-over points, you should be fine... Even if it's boosting, it's doing so with ease, and it shouldn't be much boost anyway. My Integra has been like that for nearly 3 years now, and I have a small turbo (ie more boost sooner). It also gets street driven a bunch, because I never trailer it to the track, it's kind of tempting to drive for fun, and my designated daily drivers have always seemed to end up being less reliable than the turbocharged track car. I can also pass the I/M 240 emissions test with the strictest limits in my state, and I get 34 mpg on long highway trips, and 30 mpg when I have to resort to using it as a daily driver (13 miles each way, on a highway with traffic and about 7 stop lights along the way). It stays around 14.7:1 pretty well while cruising, but richens right up when I give it a little more throttle.

 

I know that my car never runs closed loop.
The tuner told me that he keeps it in open loop all the time so that there is no chance of running lean. Also, he said that if there is a problem with the tune of the car, it would be pretty obvious that he is responsible since it is always running on his tune.

If it is always in open loop, is it even possible to be in LIMP mode when check engine codes appear ?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rmcdaniels &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I keep an eye on AFR, water temp, and oil pressure. I think any time you boost a car you have to be more vigilant. I need to add EGT to that mix, just haven't gotten around to it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

From the sound of it, your running an autometer air fuel gauge aren't ya?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Weston &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

There's really no problem running closed loop with a boosted car, even if it's in boost at the time, as long as it's not in closed loop when there's a bunch of load on the engine. With the stock settings for the open-loop/closed-loop cross-over points, you should be fine... Even if it's boosting, it's doing so with ease, and it shouldn't be much boost anyway. My Integra has been like that for nearly 3 years now, and I have a small turbo (ie more boost sooner). It also gets street driven a bunch, because I never trailer it to the track, it's kind of tempting to drive for fun, and my designated daily drivers have always seemed to end up being less reliable than the turbocharged track car. I can also pass the I/M 240 emissions test with the strictest limits in my state, and I get 34 mpg on long highway trips, and 30 mpg when I have to resort to using it as a daily driver (13 miles each way, on a highway with traffic and about 7 stop lights along the way). It stays around 14.7:1 pretty well while cruising, but richens right up when I give it a little more throttle.

</TD></TR></TABLE>


I run uberdata and its the same way, out of boost, ie. stock map, it shoots for 14.7, but you can modify that also. Soon as it goes the boosted portion it drops down to where i have it set. I tried the closed loop, diagnosing a bad o2 sensor, and it wasn't bad, you see where your tune truly is there. My only issue about running that way, is it is what it is. I live in michigan, and spring time and fall, its dry and colder, summer, hot and humid, i'd have to retune my car a few times, specialy yesterday for my track day, it was 90's and humid as all hell. Air fuel's were perfect low 11's, i just don't know that running closed it would correct for humidity and all that good stuff.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by My95SlvrBlt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">From the sound of it, your running an autometer air fuel gauge aren't ya?</TD></TR></TABLE>


AEM wideband UEGO controller to an EMS, with a Gauge-Tech display logging highs/lows and doing threshold detection/alerting.

 

Ah ok, LOL, I was almost sure you were meaning the NB02 gauge.