starting problem
My 93 h23a has a hard time turning over sometimes especially when it is hotter. My question is could the reason be because of the fuel filter as it is really old with over 170 thousand miles on it. The starter is brand new as well as the engine, plugs, wires and intake filter, so I figure the only other thing is fuel and my filter is really old. Car does turn over fine just won't start. opinions?
Considering the Fuel filter is roughly $20.00 at the dealership, I think it's a good place to start. At 170K miles, that should be changed anyway. Change that first and see if your problems still presist.
Alright thanks, but does anyone else feel that their car has a harder time starting after its been siting out in the heat for a while?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lude1888 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What should I listen for when trying to hear the pump go on.</TD></TR></TABLE>
a humming noise
a humming noise
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Alright I found this for future reference in case anyone else has questions about the main relay.
The Honda Acura Main Relay Assembly, the Mitsuba RZ-0159. This main relay model fits a range of Honda Acura vehicles with B, C, D, F, G, H and J-series engines from 1.5L to 3.5L; VTEC and non-VTEC, such as, Odysseys, Pilots, Accords, Civics, Del Sols, Integras, Preludes, CLs & TLs. It will fit and work compatibly with Honda Acura vehicles from OBD 1 & 2.
The Mitsuba RZ-0159 Main Relay Assembly technically supersedes the Mitsuba RZ-0088/0132/0139 Main Relay Assemblies. In summary, the RZ-0159 can be used in place of the RZ-0088/0132/0139.
The main relay actually contains two individual relays. The first relay is energized whenever the ignition switch is on which supplies battery voltage to the ECU, power to the fuel injectors, and power for the second relay. The second relay is energized for two seconds when the ignition switch is on, and when the engine is running which supplies power to the fuel pump.
When the main relay is at fault, the engine will usually fire, run for a split second and then stall, as the remaining fuel under pressure is used up. Continual cranking will only make the situation worse, with the engine not firing at all in the end. When you turn the ignition key to position II (ignition on) you should see the Check Engine indicator on the dash light up and extinguish. Exactly timed with this lamp, you should hear a click and the fuel pump turn on and off. If you do not hear a click and the fuel pump, then the main relay is likely to be at fault.
The main relay is usually located near the fuse box, mounted on a bracket. When you have a problem with the main relay, thumping this part of the dash, it is likely that the car will spring into life again as the joint is disturbed, unless the problem is severe.
The joint in the above-mentioned is a dry joint in the main relay, which can cause an intermittent or no connection. The main relay controls power to the ECU, and the fuel pump. With no power to the rest of the fuel-injection system, or fuel pump, you won't be going anywhere! Dry joints problems are resolved in later model and production Honda Acura main relays as physically attested by their on-board soldering quality.
The Honda Acura Main Relay Assembly, the Mitsuba RZ-0159. This main relay model fits a range of Honda Acura vehicles with B, C, D, F, G, H and J-series engines from 1.5L to 3.5L; VTEC and non-VTEC, such as, Odysseys, Pilots, Accords, Civics, Del Sols, Integras, Preludes, CLs & TLs. It will fit and work compatibly with Honda Acura vehicles from OBD 1 & 2.
The Mitsuba RZ-0159 Main Relay Assembly technically supersedes the Mitsuba RZ-0088/0132/0139 Main Relay Assemblies. In summary, the RZ-0159 can be used in place of the RZ-0088/0132/0139.
The main relay actually contains two individual relays. The first relay is energized whenever the ignition switch is on which supplies battery voltage to the ECU, power to the fuel injectors, and power for the second relay. The second relay is energized for two seconds when the ignition switch is on, and when the engine is running which supplies power to the fuel pump.
When the main relay is at fault, the engine will usually fire, run for a split second and then stall, as the remaining fuel under pressure is used up. Continual cranking will only make the situation worse, with the engine not firing at all in the end. When you turn the ignition key to position II (ignition on) you should see the Check Engine indicator on the dash light up and extinguish. Exactly timed with this lamp, you should hear a click and the fuel pump turn on and off. If you do not hear a click and the fuel pump, then the main relay is likely to be at fault.
The main relay is usually located near the fuse box, mounted on a bracket. When you have a problem with the main relay, thumping this part of the dash, it is likely that the car will spring into life again as the joint is disturbed, unless the problem is severe.
The joint in the above-mentioned is a dry joint in the main relay, which can cause an intermittent or no connection. The main relay controls power to the ECU, and the fuel pump. With no power to the rest of the fuel-injection system, or fuel pump, you won't be going anywhere! Dry joints problems are resolved in later model and production Honda Acura main relays as physically attested by their on-board soldering quality.
this doesn't explain why the car only has trouble starting up when its warm though. i have the same problem as you, and i have narrowed it down to a leak in the fuel line/system somewhere. i can smell a slight hint of fuel at startup, which helped point me in the direction of fuel system problems. i even did some trouble-shooting and talking to techs at honda, and every time it pointed me to the fuel system. do you smell any fuel when you start up your motor?
No I don't believe so, but I'll check the pressure later and let you know. So you think you have a pressure leak I suppose as you don't find fluid on the floor correct?
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sw96
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