I recently seized the motor in my 95 accord LX and ripped the block down to the bottom end and found that the connecting rob in cylinder 4 is broken. So i decided that i would pull that motor and buy a new one and then take the sized one completely apart to see if its rebuildable. The LX, as most of you know, comes with the f22b2 non-Vtec motor and i bought a f22b1 Vtec to replace it. Money is tight and i got a nice deal on it. so my question is will the ECU that i have for the b2 work with the b1 no problems or am i gonna have to find a new ecu that will use the full potential of that motor.

Thanks

MaXiMuS

 

your gonna throw a CEL a POA ECU is really easy to find

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by I got the CD5 Jeebies! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">your gonna throw a CEL a POA ECU is really easy to find</TD></TR></TABLE>

no you wont have any cel's. it just wont activate vtec. yes, the motor is designed to be used with a vtec ecu.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by momstaxi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

no you wont have any cel's. it just wont activate vtec. yes, the motor is designed to be used with a vtec ecu.</TD></TR></TABLE>

if you say so

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by I got the CD5 Jeebies! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

if you say so</TD></TR></TABLE>

what do the code the ecu throw?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by momstaxi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no you wont have any cel's. it just wont activate vtec. yes, the motor is designed to be used with a vtec ecu.</TD></TR></TABLE>
agreed. the ECU won't have a clue vtec exists, so it will run it fine you'll just get no vtec. get the vtec ECU and you'll get much more out of the motor.

PS - if the motor threw a ROD the block is most likely ready for the scrap heap.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by momstaxi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

what do the code the ecu throw?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I wouldn't know)being honest) but just me assuming on a little common knowlege..,,,a CEL related to Vtec oil sensor??? oh well I would like to find out as well, but I still vote for CEL

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by I got the CD5 Jeebies! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I wouldn't know)being honest) but just me assuming on a little common knowlege..,,,a CEL related to Vtec oil sensor??? oh well I would like to find out as well, but I still vote for CEL</TD></TR></TABLE>

It won't throw a CEL. The OP would be using the non-VTEC ECU, so "VTEC" is not in its vocabulary. The ECU was not programmed with anything VTEC... Let me put it this way, if you were a ref for a football game and you never knew what clipping was or that it was even illegal, how could you throw a flag for it? You wouldn't throw a flag, because you wouldn't know any better.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by philadd &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

It won't throw a CEL. The OP would be using the non-VTEC ECU, so "VTEC" is not in its vocabulary. The ECU was not programmed with anything VTEC... Let me put it this way, if you were a ref for a football game and you never knew what clipping was or that it was even illegal, how could you throw a flag for it? You wouldn't throw a flag, because you wouldn't know any better.</TD></TR></TABLE>


I see said the blind man....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by I got the CD5 Jeebies! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


I see said the blind man....</TD></TR></TABLE>

To his deaf wife.

 

Thank you for the quick Replies and answering my question. I have purchased a P0A ecu off ebay and should be here soon. i would assume that the wire harness is the same for both ecu's am i correct in that assumption? If so will the new one plug in and work, no problems?

Thanks again
MaXiMuS

 

OBD1 is OBD1 same for all Geners of wiring

 

Your LX car will not have the wires neccessary for VTEC. They will need to be ran to the ECU just like doing an H swap.

 

You will need to wire up knock sensor, VTEC, and VTEC oil pressure sensors.

 

Is there even a knock sensor on the f22b1?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by philadd &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is there even a knock sensor on the f22b1? </TD></TR></TABLE>

no there isn't

you will need to run two wires through the firewall, one for vtec spool and the other for vtec oil pressure, and pin them into the corresponding pinout locations on the ecu plugs. the ground for the oil pressure can be ran a number of places inside the engine compartment

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by momstaxi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

no there isn't

you will need to run two wires through the firewall, one for vtec spool and the other for vtec oil pressure, and pin them into the corresponding pinout locations on the ecu plugs. the ground for the oil pressure can be ran a number of places inside the engine compartment</TD></TR></TABLE>

Exactly, just follow the same write-ups for a H swap into those cars, just ignore the knock sensor section.

 

My bad, no knock on the F, well there you go. All plug and play except two wires.

 

Run the b2 ecu until you wire in the b1 ecu. You will throw NO codes as stated before, I ran a d16y8 in my ef for atleast a year code free with no vtec. if the ecu doesnt know its there...then its not there. Finding the pinouts isnt hard. Can probably find them on APEX-Is website for the VAFC/SAFC wire diagrams. Good luck, I loved my f22b1, just sold it recent...h22 powered now...Have fun, your other motor is probably good for a coffee table unless the damage is minimal and you know a good machine shop.

 

ok so then you should all find this very interesting. When i started to hook back up all the wires to the new engine, the distributor had a different plug on it. i couldn't find a proper wiring diagram for the new plug to make a harness for it that would work so i took that distributor off and put the b2 distributor on instead. It seems to kinda work other then the point that the engine does not run very well acts as if the cylinders are not getting the fuel at the right time but not always there are points when it runs ok for a split second but then takes a hit and the rpms die a little bit, possible is injectors i haven't checked them yet because i want to make sure its not the CEL im getting. i get a CEL code of 9 which according to the book is a sensor in the distributor (Cylinder Position Sensor) but when i checked it the way Haynes manual says to the sensor is working just fine. Could putting that distributor on that engine be part of the problem? the car also revs up to 5000 and dies off kinda like a rev limit but not the same it sounds different the bounce is faster then before, what might be the cause of that? i thought that because of the vtec not engaging might have something to do with it but im not sure.

But needless to say i have it running which is better then i have had it for a month but i have run into problems.

Any help would be appreciated

MaXiMuS

 

it will bolt up and connect up without any issues. Your output will be somewhere around 140HP versus the extra 5 you would get from Vtec as long as you use the IM and EM from the vtec motor

 

well after a day of drilling over these problems i solved most of them. i found a wiring diagram that showed me how the 2 distributors where setup and which wire where in which plugs and finally made a harness that worked with the distributor that came with the new engine block. once installed my CEL disappeared as did the misfires. so now i have a clean smooth running engine, that wont rev past 4500-5000 rpm. lol. that i think is where the f22b2 ecu running an f22b1 motor becomes the problem. if i had to guess i would say that because the VTEC is not kicking in when it supposed to the cam lobs that are being used intake side just cant take that high rev and the power band just dies off, at what sounds like a really fast rev limit. so now i at least have a drivable car that so far has no problems until i receive the ECU that i ordered. now i seem to remember someone mentioning something about running 3 wires up front to control the VTEC activation with the new ECU that i have to pin in to at the ECU

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by YeuEmMaiMai &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you will need to run two wires through the firewall, one for vtec spool and the other for vtec oil pressure, and pin them into the corresponding pin out locations on the ecu plugs. the ground for the oil pressure can be ran a number of places inside the engine compartment</TD></TR></TABLE>

now i know where the oil pressure valve is, right on top of the intake mani, that has a single wire running to it but where is the Vtec spool unless they are the same thing in which case y is there only one wire coming out of it. if anyone could help me determine where the wires are that i will need to hook up and a good place to get a diagram of the 2 ECU pin outs that would be awesome. this will complete the vtec swap and i will have successfully completed my first engine swap.

Thanks again for every ones help.

MaXiMuS

 

locate the vtec solenoid on the back of the cylinder head off the left hand side, near the thermostat housing...

notice two plugs on it..

the single green/yellow? wire with the squared/rectangular plug is the vtec spool solenoid.
pin that to plug A, pin 4 on the ecu

the round two wire plug towards the bottom of the solenoid assembly is the vtec oil pressure switch. the black is ground and can just be grounded to the solenoid body itself via 10mm bolt that holds teh upper portion of it.
the colored wire (blue/black??) i cant remember but that not important. pin that to plug D pin 6 at the ecu plug.

im not totally positive but i do believe an f series motor will still completely rev out even with vtec not engaging...

 

ok so i have everything working the way its supposed to except the vtec which is because of the ecu not being here yet. but i was looking at the solenoid and there is only one wire coming out of it and its the spool wire. i kinda jerry rigged it to a switch in my cabin that allows me to turn on the vtec manually when i hit the right rpm range just by flippin a switch. i just ran 12v to it and the vtec engages. but i have no oil pressure wires, i even took the solenoid off and looked there is nothing. will that cause a problem?

ps: the f series does not rev out to the limit if vtec is not engaged but as soon as i flip that switch it goes to 7200. pretty cool to have it hardwired cuz you can actually see the difference it makes.

but anywho thnx for all the help just wonderin about that last thing (oil pressure wires) and that will complete my swap

MaXiMuS

 

here is what your looking at...

its the lower plug (green plug/green sensor in pic)



should be pretty straight forward