ok... I got my setup off an ex/si. Changed the booster, and went on to do the Master Cylinder. Got the put on and BAM!! problems....the brake line won't fit in the master cylinder. The one in red, is the one im having problems with. The brake line connector is too small, same size as the green. My question is, Does anyone know what size of adapter I need so i can go from the big size(5/16th?) to the small size(1/4th?) I also need the thread size and such. And do I even need the bigger m/c?

 

or if i can just rig it some way?

 

it might be a case of abs vs non-abs

 

ya it was abs....is there something i can do to it so i can just put my non-abs in? also...the front, in the green, is the same size

 

negative, you cannot mix and match with the MC.

hate to say it, but you gotta buy another part

 

so i cant get an adapter from a big one to a small one? what mc would you recommend?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SirSmokesAlot &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">negative, you cannot mix and match with the MC.

hate to say it, but you gotta buy another part</TD></TR></TABLE>
wrong...he can cut the line...replace the fitting with the correct larger one and reflare the line

 

You have to cut the line, swap your 10mm fitting for a 12mm fitting from an ABS car, and then reflare the line. You'll need a line flaring kit.

 

i'm hoping your porportioner isn't from a abs vehicle.

 

well then are there any porpotional valves that arent from an abs car?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cuz_ican &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wrong...he can cut the line...replace the fitting with the correct larger one and reflare the line</TD></TR></TABLE>

you think all that work is worth it?

 

that really wouldnt be all that much work

 

can you just change both lines coming off the prop val, that goto the mc. with steelbradded lines...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SirSmokesAlot &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you think all that work is worth it? </TD></TR></TABLE>
yes its worth it...i have done this swap plenty of times and it makes a big difference in stopping power....you are upgrading from a 13\16 to a 1"...its a BIG difference...and its not alot of work...itll take an hour at the most to cut reflare install and bleed...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dem0nk1d &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">can you just change both lines coming off the prop val, that goto the mc. with steelbradded lines... </TD></TR></TABLE>
you can also just change the lines to steel braided too


also as far as a porpotional valve you can use one from a non-abs integra...like a 94 rs...

 

and exactly why cant i use a abs porportional valve....is there like an extra line off of it?

and would steel braided work?

what lines could i use so that the brake fluid wont eat through them

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Stingray96 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and exactly why cant i use a abs porportional valve....is there like an extra line off of it?

and would steel braided work?

what lines could i use so that the brake fluid wont eat through them</TD></TR></TABLE>
i believe abs proportional valve has an extra line....and you can use steel braided lines...the fluid wont eat through them...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SirSmokesAlot &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you think all that work is worth it? </TD></TR></TABLE>
It's an easy 5-minute job to replace a fitting when you have the right tools. It's hardly "all that work." Maybe if you're incompetent or something . . .

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cuz_ican &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it makes a big difference in stopping power....you are upgrading from a 13\16 to a 1"...its a BIG difference</TD></TR></TABLE>
It makes no difference at all in stopping power. A master cylinder upsize only firms up the pedal feel and reduces pedal travel. The car will still stop the same.

Rear disc swaps do little to nothing to improve stopping power as well. They're just easier to maintain, have more friction material options, and less susceptible to fade.

He also didn't mention whether he was doing a front brake swap along with the rear swap. If he's not using the 10.3" front brakes, I wouldn't even bother swapping on a master cylinder larger than 7/8". Honda agrees ('92-95 EH3). All it will do is create pedal modulation and wheel lockup difficulties.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dem0nk1d &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">can you just change both lines coming off the prop val, that goto the mc. with steelbradded lines... </TD></TR></TABLE>
No, you can't. There is a reason manufacturers do not use flexible lines for the entire brake system. Not to mention, I wouldn't want anything but conventional flared hard lines with threaded fittings coming directly off the master cylinder - it's better to lose just one brake when the crimped fitting on a flexible line fails, rather than the entire system.