One my Headlights went out HeLP !!
Ok i turned on my HIDS .. adn then turned it off and then turned it back on .,.. but this time one of my lights didnt come on.. so i thought it was the bulb so i just switched it back to Halogen ones but it doesnt work so im out with one headlight... do you know what it is.. its not the wiring because i checked but i dont have a mulitimeter help me out guys thnx!
check the fuse for the headlights. If you have a Philips kit, then each ballest uses the stock headlight harness. Each headlight has its own fuse under the dash.
Most likely that one fuse blew. Replace it with a 30a fuse and everything will be ok. Also replace the other sides fuse also with a 30a fuse and you'll be ok.
Most likely that one fuse blew. Replace it with a 30a fuse and everything will be ok. Also replace the other sides fuse also with a 30a fuse and you'll be ok.
Since I've never bought fuses before, how much would a couple of new fuses be? My kit came with some sort of relay that had a 15a fuse in it. Not sure whether or not I should replace my stock fuses too.
ok check that fuse that came with the kit. Replacing it is like a $3.00 for a pack of five.
Next check the fuses under the dash (drivers area). The fuses you want are listed just check the lid to make sure. If the fuse is blown use the spare fuse that in the fuse box. Also use the 30a fuse instead of the orginal size fuse. This way it shouldn't happen again.
Let me know if that helps. Most likely it should fix the problem 95% of the time. If you need more help in finding the right fuse, let me know and I can help find a diagram.
Next check the fuses under the dash (drivers area). The fuses you want are listed just check the lid to make sure. If the fuse is blown use the spare fuse that in the fuse box. Also use the 30a fuse instead of the orginal size fuse. This way it shouldn't happen again.
Let me know if that helps. Most likely it should fix the problem 95% of the time. If you need more help in finding the right fuse, let me know and I can help find a diagram.
Also use the 30a fuse instead of the orginal size fuse. This way it shouldn't happen again.
What's that smell? Electrical fires SUCK!
Bad advice...
actually it wont cause a fire! Why? The HID kit he has from what I can tell uses its own power source hence the relay system it has. The only time it draws power is to signal the kit to come on. With a 15a fuse that the relay has (as he stated) might cause an initial power spike and pop the fuse for that one burst of power need to strick the relay into signaling the power to turn on.
However, I could be wrong and he has a kit which uses the factory harness and uses the relay to turn on each ballest. Either way running a high amp fuse will not burn/ overload the wires! Why? HID systems use less power then a typical lighting system. The only reason the need that higher amp fuse is for the initial power spike when the kit turns on. Then after the warmup period the kit drops the power to a trickle of power!
Any how if you run a HID system, running larger amp fuses is ok because the kit only uses that extra power for a few sec. Also going up 10-20 amps will not fry the factory wires because they are a class C grace copper wiring which is kinda over kill. However if you up the amp on the fuses for a high watt halogen bulb, then you will burn/fry the wires!!! Why? Because unlike HID bulbs/ballest/igniters, a halogen bulb gets its brightness from a constent flow of watts. The high the watt the brighter the bulb. The higher the amp fuse allows a stronger watt to go the bulb which makes the bulb brighter, however the wires will heat up for flowing that overloaded power for a constent time. However HID systems use a sudden pull in amps to power up the ballest which is kidna like a capaciter which takes that power and bulbs it up to thousands of volts to create a electrical arch in the HID bulb to liquify the sodium crystal. Once the sodium crystal is heated the ballest drops the power to a equivilent of 30watts and require almost no power to keep running vs a halogen system which uses a 55w flow to stay on. So by over loading a halogen system to say a 85w or 100w, your almost doubling the power flow that goes through the stock wires. This in turn frys the wiring. However since a HID system only uses that higher watt for a few seconds, the wiring is never harmed. Just a little FYI on the topic of HID lighting!
Ignor the typing/grammer errors, I'm typing real fast because I have a bad sinus headach and I want to sleep and this monitor is killing me!
[Modified by Rboosted717, 10:32 PM 4/21/2002]
However, I could be wrong and he has a kit which uses the factory harness and uses the relay to turn on each ballest. Either way running a high amp fuse will not burn/ overload the wires! Why? HID systems use less power then a typical lighting system. The only reason the need that higher amp fuse is for the initial power spike when the kit turns on. Then after the warmup period the kit drops the power to a trickle of power!
Any how if you run a HID system, running larger amp fuses is ok because the kit only uses that extra power for a few sec. Also going up 10-20 amps will not fry the factory wires because they are a class C grace copper wiring which is kinda over kill. However if you up the amp on the fuses for a high watt halogen bulb, then you will burn/fry the wires!!! Why? Because unlike HID bulbs/ballest/igniters, a halogen bulb gets its brightness from a constent flow of watts. The high the watt the brighter the bulb. The higher the amp fuse allows a stronger watt to go the bulb which makes the bulb brighter, however the wires will heat up for flowing that overloaded power for a constent time. However HID systems use a sudden pull in amps to power up the ballest which is kidna like a capaciter which takes that power and bulbs it up to thousands of volts to create a electrical arch in the HID bulb to liquify the sodium crystal. Once the sodium crystal is heated the ballest drops the power to a equivilent of 30watts and require almost no power to keep running vs a halogen system which uses a 55w flow to stay on. So by over loading a halogen system to say a 85w or 100w, your almost doubling the power flow that goes through the stock wires. This in turn frys the wiring. However since a HID system only uses that higher watt for a few seconds, the wiring is never harmed. Just a little FYI on the topic of HID lighting!

Ignor the typing/grammer errors, I'm typing real fast because I have a bad sinus headach and I want to sleep and this monitor is killing me!

[Modified by Rboosted717, 10:32 PM 4/21/2002]
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Also use the 30a fuse instead of the orginal size fuse. This way it shouldn't happen again.
:sniff: :sniff:
What's that smell? Electrical fires SUCK!
Bad advice...
:sniff: :sniff:
What's that smell? Electrical fires SUCK!
Bad advice...
HID's will only draw that amperage at the initial warm-up of the HID's... max would be 5-6 seconds when it draws that amperage. After that, the HID's will probably use less power than your turn signals...
actually it wont cause a fire! Why? The HID kit he has from what I can tell uses its own power source hence the relay system it has. The only time it draws power is to signal the kit to come on. With a 15a fuse that the relay has (as he stated) might cause an initial power spike and pop the fuse for that one burst of power need to strick the relay into signaling the power to turn on.
However, I could be wrong and he has a kit which uses the factory harness and uses the relay to turn on each ballest. Either way running a high amp fuse will not burn/ overload the wires! Why? HID systems use less power then a typical lighting system. The only reason the need that higher amp fuse is for the initial power spike when the kit turns on. Then after the warmup period the kit drops the power to a trickle of power!
Any how if you run a HID system, running larger amp fuses is ok because the kit only uses that extra power for a few sec. Also going up 10-20 amps will not fry the factory wires because they are a class C grace copper wiring which is kinda over kill. However if you up the amp on the fuses for a high watt halogen bulb, then you will burn/fry the wires!!! Why? Because unlike HID bulbs/ballest/igniters, a halogen bulb gets its brightness from a constent flow of watts. The high the watt the brighter the bulb. The higher the amp fuse allows a stronger watt to go the bulb which makes the bulb brighter, however the wires will heat up for flowing that overloaded power for a constent time. However HID systems use a sudden pull in amps to power up the ballest which is kidna like a capaciter which takes that power and bulbs it up to thousands of volts to create a electrical arch in the HID bulb to liquify the sodium crystal. Once the sodium crystal is heated the ballest drops the power to a equivilent of 30watts and require almost no power to keep running vs a halogen system which uses a 55w flow to stay on. So by over loading a halogen system to say a 85w or 100w, your almost doubling the power flow that goes through the stock wires. This in turn frys the wiring. However since a HID system only uses that higher watt for a few seconds, the wiring is never harmed. Just a little FYI on the topic of HID lighting!
Ignor the typing/grammer errors, I'm typing real fast because I have a bad sinus headach and I want to sleep and this monitor is killing me!
[Modified by Rboosted717, 10:32 PM 4/21/2002]
However, I could be wrong and he has a kit which uses the factory harness and uses the relay to turn on each ballest. Either way running a high amp fuse will not burn/ overload the wires! Why? HID systems use less power then a typical lighting system. The only reason the need that higher amp fuse is for the initial power spike when the kit turns on. Then after the warmup period the kit drops the power to a trickle of power!
Any how if you run a HID system, running larger amp fuses is ok because the kit only uses that extra power for a few sec. Also going up 10-20 amps will not fry the factory wires because they are a class C grace copper wiring which is kinda over kill. However if you up the amp on the fuses for a high watt halogen bulb, then you will burn/fry the wires!!! Why? Because unlike HID bulbs/ballest/igniters, a halogen bulb gets its brightness from a constent flow of watts. The high the watt the brighter the bulb. The higher the amp fuse allows a stronger watt to go the bulb which makes the bulb brighter, however the wires will heat up for flowing that overloaded power for a constent time. However HID systems use a sudden pull in amps to power up the ballest which is kidna like a capaciter which takes that power and bulbs it up to thousands of volts to create a electrical arch in the HID bulb to liquify the sodium crystal. Once the sodium crystal is heated the ballest drops the power to a equivilent of 30watts and require almost no power to keep running vs a halogen system which uses a 55w flow to stay on. So by over loading a halogen system to say a 85w or 100w, your almost doubling the power flow that goes through the stock wires. This in turn frys the wiring. However since a HID system only uses that higher watt for a few seconds, the wiring is never harmed. Just a little FYI on the topic of HID lighting!

Ignor the typing/grammer errors, I'm typing real fast because I have a bad sinus headach and I want to sleep and this monitor is killing me!

[Modified by Rboosted717, 10:32 PM 4/21/2002]
That is good info to know for me (the guy with the relay) but Crashmase posted the topic and i believe he didn't have the relay in his kit. My fault for getting off his original question.
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