Second swap, and im sinking in ******ry.
So i liked the recent swap so much i decided to do my other Car with the same type of engine, D15b vtec, Btw. So I got the thing in, Made the wiring harness myself for obd1 vtec, mpfi, And
here are the results.
Injectors shoot fuel, Car cranks, Some wires of the dizzy are getting voltage, I dont know if the other wires on the distributor only get voltage when the car is on or not.Timing belt is fine. Distributor is not advanced or retarted , Right int he middle. I tried to start the car like 5 times, and after a while the muffler started smelling like unburnt fuel(obviously right). Is this chokin the engine ? * expletive if i know*. Injectors are good.
I get 4 codes from the ecu (p08 btw)
10 - Iat ( will fix)
19- Automatic tranny lockup control valve ( this i can fix)
20 - Electrical load detector ( dont know what to do with this )
22- vtec pressure valve.( will fix too)
But shouldnt the car start even though these 4 things are wrong? Maybe gay idle but it should start right?
Thanks for the available help out there, i searched, but nope.
here are the results.
Injectors shoot fuel, Car cranks, Some wires of the dizzy are getting voltage, I dont know if the other wires on the distributor only get voltage when the car is on or not.Timing belt is fine. Distributor is not advanced or retarted , Right int he middle. I tried to start the car like 5 times, and after a while the muffler started smelling like unburnt fuel(obviously right). Is this chokin the engine ? * expletive if i know*. Injectors are good.
I get 4 codes from the ecu (p08 btw)
10 - Iat ( will fix)
19- Automatic tranny lockup control valve ( this i can fix)
20 - Electrical load detector ( dont know what to do with this )
22- vtec pressure valve.( will fix too)
But shouldnt the car start even though these 4 things are wrong? Maybe gay idle but it should start right?
Thanks for the available help out there, i searched, but nope.
Oh yeah, and I put a multimeter on the end of a spark plug wire crap and my friend flipped the key and i didnt get any readings. Maybe its the distributor? but wouldnt the ecu throw a code for a bad dizzy sensor or wiring w/e. maybe its the electrical load detector.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MENACE »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think code 20 will keep it from starting, Check your grounds, and the harness plugs.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
it will start, and even run fine with this code
</TD></TR></TABLE>it will start, and even run fine with this code
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by droppedcrxsi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it will start, and even run fine with this code</TD></TR></TABLE> Will it run fine with the Iat code. How come its not throwinga code for the distributor.
it depends. Its a broad code that covers anything that creates resistance. In theory, if its bad enough you car won't run. Start fixing everything you know isn't working and you might come across the problem of code 20.
Thanks everyone, Im fixed code 19, and it wants to start but doesnt completely. I think im getting there. Eliminating one by one, I just dont know about my dizzy yet. Ill stay up tonight trying to figure this out. Can i wire the distributor directly to the ecu?
Fixed distributor wiring, I got the Auto Lockup solenoid code going on, and i already wired it up, WTff, I took off the ecu fuse, and its still on there, Could it be the Electronic load detector problem? Main fuse box is bad? shitttttt. Getting gas in injectors, i smell it out of the muffler, alternator works,. starter works, distributor is wired correctly, WHAT THE HELL!
Im probably gonna go get a rywire obd1 mpfi d15b conversion harness., im probably gonna have to somehow look for a stock harness though. theres non around here :/
Yeah i am, no resistor box. all obd1. I put all the black yellow stripped wires sodered together with the two yellow with black stripe wires at the driver side plug. 12v.
Almost every swap (upgrade) I've done has gotten code 20, it has no issues, and didn't hold back any cars whatsoever. It won't make the CEL come on unless it's a major issue.
Check the wiring for the dizzy, and make sure it's not 180 degree backwards. Sounds like it's good, just not firing 100%. Maybe wrong plug order, maybe dizzy in backwards.
Did you check the spark plug wires for current when it's cranking over? Simply ground out the wire when it's cranking over, you should see/hear it arc. If it arcs, check your wiring order and plugs. If it doesn't check your dizzy wiring or the dizzy itself.
Check the wiring for the dizzy, and make sure it's not 180 degree backwards. Sounds like it's good, just not firing 100%. Maybe wrong plug order, maybe dizzy in backwards.
Did you check the spark plug wires for current when it's cranking over? Simply ground out the wire when it's cranking over, you should see/hear it arc. If it arcs, check your wiring order and plugs. If it doesn't check your dizzy wiring or the dizzy itself.
Okay, This morning i thought it was the alternator, but i figured it would atleast throw a small spark weak, or whatever. I checked alternator d9, and a16, Good voltage. Distributor is for sure wired correctly.
Grounds are good, valve cover, battery, thermostat ground is bolted to the hole closest to the Fast idle valve on top. transmission ground is bolted above the throttle cable bracket.
Ecu is not throwing codes for distributor or anything except Iat, And the electronic load detector thing and Automatic transmission control. Ive heard its supposed to start anyway.
I checked resistance on distributor, i get 360 on all pins on the large connector, and 2.19 on the smaller 2 wire plug thing beside it.
I might go buy a reman distributor and try itr on, and if it still doesnt start, just take it back and say it didnt fit...io guess......
Oh yeah and i swapped ignitors from an obd0. maybe its the coil?

What is the plug on the left for, black/yellow, and solid blue wires. where does it go on ecu. Might be my problem....
Modified by La-quiete at 3:43 PM 7/17/2006
Grounds are good, valve cover, battery, thermostat ground is bolted to the hole closest to the Fast idle valve on top. transmission ground is bolted above the throttle cable bracket.
Ecu is not throwing codes for distributor or anything except Iat, And the electronic load detector thing and Automatic transmission control. Ive heard its supposed to start anyway.
I checked resistance on distributor, i get 360 on all pins on the large connector, and 2.19 on the smaller 2 wire plug thing beside it.
I might go buy a reman distributor and try itr on, and if it still doesnt start, just take it back and say it didnt fit...io guess......
Oh yeah and i swapped ignitors from an obd0. maybe its the coil?

What is the plug on the left for, black/yellow, and solid blue wires. where does it go on ecu. Might be my problem....
Modified by La-quiete at 3:43 PM 7/17/2006
Do I have to repeat my self. I've seen code 20 stop a car from starting easily! Think about, what causes load....resistance! What do electronics hate....resistance What controls your engine...electronics! What do you have left that stopping your car from starting...code 20!
One is the coil positive wire. Forget the second one on that plug.
One is the coil positive wire. Forget the second one on that plug.
Code 20 is fixed, no electric load detector problem anymore. Solved. I took out wiring harness and fixed a short.
Still wont start...have auto tranny solenoid code being thrown, 19 i believe.
maybe obd1 ecu's look for a diffnt solenoid than the obd0. Ecu and tranny are both auto.
Still wont start...have auto tranny solenoid code being thrown, 19 i believe.
maybe obd1 ecu's look for a diffnt solenoid than the obd0. Ecu and tranny are both auto.
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