B18C5 New shortblock, ideas and knowledge needed.
I'm considering picking up a brand new C5 shortblock from Len over at Baranco Acura to mate with the complete B16A2 swap I have. I'm just looking for any input on head studs, preventive things to go ahead and do, or just opinions on the setup.
The car is a 94 EJ1, the head has approx. 90K on it, all stock never opened. The car is going to be daily driven and hopefully begin getting her on the track of some sort. I would really enjoy doing the Expo, I am a former R owner, hopefully you cats would welcome me. (2000-#1216)
Anyways, I have just decided against turbo. As far as management I'm looking at a Kenji chipped P28 or Hondata. I'm just putting this out there, you guys give your ideal setup or suggestions.
I'll appreciate any insight or suggestions, Dave.
The car is a 94 EJ1, the head has approx. 90K on it, all stock never opened. The car is going to be daily driven and hopefully begin getting her on the track of some sort. I would really enjoy doing the Expo, I am a former R owner, hopefully you cats would welcome me. (2000-#1216)
Anyways, I have just decided against turbo. As far as management I'm looking at a Kenji chipped P28 or Hondata. I'm just putting this out there, you guys give your ideal setup or suggestions.
I'll appreciate any insight or suggestions, Dave.
I'm going to use Golden Eagle headstuds on my motor.
Otherwise, stock is fine too, as long as they are for a B18C.
I like crome for engine management.
But it all depends how much you want to spend and at the end of the day....what do you expect out of this setup and what is your intention with it? Daily? Drag? Track? All of the above and more?
Otherwise, stock is fine too, as long as they are for a B18C.
I like crome for engine management.
But it all depends how much you want to spend and at the end of the day....what do you expect out of this setup and what is your intention with it? Daily? Drag? Track? All of the above and more?
I've had a B18C5/B16A mongrel in my EM1 for a couple of years.
I would make sure to get an ITR intake manifold, that was the biggest restriction for me.
Standalone choices, I think I would choose whatever your tuner is most proficient at tuning. If you decide to get the PowerFC, I have a Datalogit that I am going to sell. PM Trey (Asahi) for the details.
I would make sure to get an ITR intake manifold, that was the biggest restriction for me.
Standalone choices, I think I would choose whatever your tuner is most proficient at tuning. If you decide to get the PowerFC, I have a Datalogit that I am going to sell. PM Trey (Asahi) for the details.
Spend a little money on a decent port and polish, then do valve springs and retainers, Head studs ( I like ARP they've been doing it the longest), Mugen or Spoon head gasket... there is a ton of ways you can go, but this will make a good solid start for you! My $.02.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RagingAngel »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm going to use Golden Eagle headstuds on my motor.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I too like GE's "Idiot Proof" design.
I too like GE's "Idiot Proof" design.
Otherwise, stock is fine too, as long as they are for a B18C.
For B18C5 correct, not B18C?
I am not very familiar with Crome, or anyone who tunes on it. I am in Alabama and there are not too many reputiable tuners I know of, but def. an option. I'm not trying to spend a ton on tuning, hence the N/A route.
"But it all depends how much you want to spend and at the end of the day....what do you expect out of this setup and what is your intention with it? Daily? Drag? Track? All of the above and more?"
I would love close to 200whp. It will be for the most part a DD, may take it down the 1/4 mile once or twice, and def. want to get into some SCCA or even the other track events like EXPO etc.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmitr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Spend a little money on a decent port and polish, then do valve springs and retainers, Head studs ( I like ARP they've been doing it the longest), Mugen or Spoon head gasket... there is a ton of ways you can go, but this will make a good solid start for you! My $.02.</TD></TR></TABLE>
What about the services that Earl Laskey provides on his website. It's like 325.00 for a clean up inspection and minor work. For 800-850 they install all Supertech stuff, is Super Tech holding up, I know very little about them. I too have looked at the ARP studs and am wondering if the head has to be retorqued after a break in? Is that going to be the deal with all head studs? The head gaskets will that create CP ratios in the 12's or 11's?
Thanks very much for the input.
What about the services that Earl Laskey provides on his website. It's like 325.00 for a clean up inspection and minor work. For 800-850 they install all Supertech stuff, is Super Tech holding up, I know very little about them. I too have looked at the ARP studs and am wondering if the head has to be retorqued after a break in? Is that going to be the deal with all head studs? The head gaskets will that create CP ratios in the 12's or 11's?
Thanks very much for the input.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kengs »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've had a B18C5/B16A mongrel in my EM1 for a couple of years.
I would make sure to get an ITR intake manifold, that was the biggest restriction for me.
Standalone choices, I think I would choose whatever your tuner is most proficient at tuning. If you decide to get the PowerFC, I have a Datalogit that I am going to sell. PM Trey (Asahi) for the details.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I would like to get the OEM Type R manifold, I really like the OEM quality parts.
I would make sure to get an ITR intake manifold, that was the biggest restriction for me.
Standalone choices, I think I would choose whatever your tuner is most proficient at tuning. If you decide to get the PowerFC, I have a Datalogit that I am going to sell. PM Trey (Asahi) for the details.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I would like to get the OEM Type R manifold, I really like the OEM quality parts.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by len »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I too like GE's "Idiot Proof" design.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Do we have any good sponsors on HT that sell the GE studs?
I too like GE's "Idiot Proof" design.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Do we have any good sponsors on HT that sell the GE studs?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B_Something »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
What about the services that Earl Laskey provides on his website. It's like 325.00 for a clean up inspection and minor work. For 800-850 they install all Supertech stuff, is Super Tech holding up, I know very little about them. I too have looked at the ARP studs and am wondering if the head has to be retorqued after a break in? Is that going to be the deal with all head studs? The head gaskets will that create CP ratios in the 12's or 11's?
Thanks very much for the input.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Plan your mods accordingly. What cams and what do you plan on reving too? If you're going to stay with OEM cams and stock rev limit, there is no need to upgrade your valve train.
ARP head studs should be retorqed after the engine has been run.
The Mugen or the Spoon thin head gaskets raise compression by 0.4.
What about the services that Earl Laskey provides on his website. It's like 325.00 for a clean up inspection and minor work. For 800-850 they install all Supertech stuff, is Super Tech holding up, I know very little about them. I too have looked at the ARP studs and am wondering if the head has to be retorqued after a break in? Is that going to be the deal with all head studs? The head gaskets will that create CP ratios in the 12's or 11's?
Thanks very much for the input.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Plan your mods accordingly. What cams and what do you plan on reving too? If you're going to stay with OEM cams and stock rev limit, there is no need to upgrade your valve train.
ARP head studs should be retorqed after the engine has been run.
The Mugen or the Spoon thin head gaskets raise compression by 0.4.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Eva01 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Plan your mods accordingly. What cams and what do you plan on reving too? If you're going to stay with OEM cams and stock rev limit, there is no need to upgrade your valve train.
ARP head studs should be retorqed after the engine has been run.
The Mugen or the Spoon thin head gaskets raise compression by 0.4.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Prob. Type R cams or maybe Skunk2 stg.2's, stock RPM range. Thanks for the help.
Plan your mods accordingly. What cams and what do you plan on reving too? If you're going to stay with OEM cams and stock rev limit, there is no need to upgrade your valve train.
ARP head studs should be retorqed after the engine has been run.
The Mugen or the Spoon thin head gaskets raise compression by 0.4.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Prob. Type R cams or maybe Skunk2 stg.2's, stock RPM range. Thanks for the help.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Aquafina »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">+1 for a new block from Len if you have the chedder.
PM;d you about the Supertech valvetrain...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Replied to the PM, yeah I really just like the thought of a brand new C5 shortblock. I feel like it would be money well spent.
PM;d you about the Supertech valvetrain...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Replied to the PM, yeah I really just like the thought of a brand new C5 shortblock. I feel like it would be money well spent.
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