So I'm getting out of class, got in my car, and tried to start it. ERERERER (pop). Thats my fuse blowing for my battery. It chewed through 4 of those, and I ended up taping my fuse holders together to get the damn thing started.

Car:
-91 CRX DX w\ ZC
-3\4 tank of gas
-fuel pump primes
-main relay clicks on
-Battery in trunk (0g wire from battery to distribution block, 4g to starter and 8g to fuse box. 80 amp barrel fuse inline, right before the battery. All grounds are sound, one from battery to chassis and 2 from valve cover\timing belt cover to chassis.)
-Cranks over superb.

Known issues:
-TPS isnt adjusted right. When I got it from Hmotors, it was off so I just kinda guessed when I put it back on.
-Havnt sent the ignition timing yet (Distributer).

Now, most of the time my car cranks over twice (ERER...vrmmmmm) and starts. Sometimes (More so when its been sitting for more than 4 hours), it will turn over 3 or 4 times, then kinda stutter (500 RPM) to a start, and shoot to 2k RPM. It'll stay there for oh, a minute and a half, and then it'll go back down to its nice idle. But, when its completely cold (aka overnight), the throttle will lag up to a second before I get the power i ordered. This will dissappear after about 2 minutes. Sometimes, it will blow a fuse 80a. This is located right next to the battery, on the + wire. It would only do it once a month, when I held the starter for 3 or 4 seconds, so I thought, no biggie. Well, now it is.

Can you guys help me figure out
1) Why it keeps blowing 80a fuses
2) Why it just kept turning over without starting today. I have a feeling the engine was flooded (maybe because of the TPS), but I dont see why it would do it today and not any other day.

 

i dont think 80a is enough if the starter is drawing power through this fuse.

i think the problem w/ the power lag when cold has to do w/ the idle control. I know it sounds weird but mine does this sometimes and when i let off and idle it goes to like 500 (when it should be 1500 for cold warm up). then after a second it goes to 1500.

Check your coolant level and clean out the IACV.

 

Ah yes, the IACV. I forgot about that.

When I hit the clutch, it'll go to 500 RPM and bounce to my 1100 rpm idle. I've cleaned it out multiple times.

I was told the starter shouldnt draw more than 60 or so, but I'll check the housing to see what its rated at.


EDIT: I've been reading the Workshop manual, and apparently the starter solenoid is rated for 50-60 amps (fused). Stock, theres a wire straight from the battery to the starter (nonfused). Maybe I'm running too small of a fuse? I dont think so, other people seem to relocate with 60a fuses and not have problems. Maybe my starter's bad?

But, the manual also says that the starter shouldnt draw more than 280a. Hm.


Modified by Voodooboy520 at 12:08 PM 7/12/2006

 

I found something else really odd - when I read the voltage between the red and green wire on the TPS, it read something like 4.7 volts. So, figuring I had the wiring wrong, I switched the green and yellow. Then I get -.45 volts, meaning I have current from the ground to the red wire. The idle also goes DOWN when I try to rev it in neutral, before spooling.


EDIT: Fixed that part. There are 3 wires on the TPS, red green and yellow. As part of my DPFI to MPFI swap, I switched the green and yellow where they were extened. So stock yellow is + and green is ground, now thier switched. I read between red and yellow, I got my .5 volts for my ZC


Modified by Voodooboy520 at 3:53 PM 7/12/2006


Modified by Voodooboy520 at 4:11 PM 7/12/2006

 

I'm thinking my starter has gone bad after some reading on the internet. They can draw excessive amps if the coils inside short out. Tomorrow I'm going to bring it to Advance and have them test it, and probably buy a new one.

BTW, I tested my EACV and it reads 0 ohms. I'm assuming your supposed to read it when its unplugged.

 

Well, my car decided not to start again, but the conditions were odd. I turned it over for a few seconds, tried again, and gave up for about 5 minutes.

Started right up after I let it sit. Now, I am disconnecting the battery when I'm not using it because I dont have a fuse in there and its pretty ghetto rigged (2g wire where the fuse should be), but that shouldnt have anything to do with it. Next time it happens, I'm going to tetst for fuel and spark. I'm assuming it as air, because I ****** floored it when trying to start it, but the situation got no better. Either the injectors arnt firing or my coil is going bad (already replaced cap and rotor). Or some of my wiring is bad, but I dont think so, because I dont actually shake anything before I start it. It just takes time.

I'm thinking a bad coil, anybody have any other suggestions? This is really pissing me off.

Also, my idle is bouncing from 500 to 1500. I'm pretty sure my EACV is bad, but I dont think it would cause the car not to start?


Modified by Voodooboy520 at 1:06 PM 7/13/2006

 

I'm going to advance with my starter now...

Back. Starter is fine, I was using too small of a fuse. The starter drew a peak of 105 amps on their test stand.

I still cant figure out why my car wont start sometimes.

 

cuz the fuse pops?

haha jk... everytime you start your car, listen for the clicks from the dash and the CEL should cycle. if u dont hear a click and the CEL doesnt come on for 3 seconds then turn off replace the main relay.

 

I'm working on that right now. Like, literally. I just resoldered the connection points.

Resoldered the connection points on the main relay, nothing. Tried to start it again and it took a second, sounded like it cought for one stroke or something, then just spun for another second before it cought.

I dont know what this could be. I tested for spark when it just kept spinning, i'm definatly getting spark. So, that just leaves fuel. My main relay clicks on once to prime the fuel pump, clicks off. CEL comes on and off. Everything looks normal.

I checked the voltage for one of the red wires after the injector ressitor box, it was like 12.6. This isnt normal, is it? I thought it should be someting like 5. Tomorrow I'm going to check for fuel flow, then if not I can knock it down to injectors, ECU, or faulty wiring.

 

did you every think of the electrical part of the ignition switch? on older accords it is VERY common for them to go and they do everything that your are explaining. they either go bad in the "start" position or the "run" position. mine went bad in the start position and every now and then i would have to turn the key all the way then rock it back a fraction to get it to crank.

try this. some how get it started, if you can, and while it is running, wiggle the key arround a little. rock it back like your going to shut the engine off but don't go all the way. if it dies then thats the problem

 

Well, I did and I'm not quite sure what "almost off" means. There is play imn the run position, and I can wiggle it back and forth easily with no stalling, but as SOON as it hits the accessory position divider (with more turning resistance), it starts to die.

Thanks for the reply


Modified by Voodooboy520 at 12:12 PM 7/14/2006

 

Well, the bolt holding the back to the ignition switch was loose, and it could move about. I tightened it down, so hopefully this is it.

 

keep us updated. i hope that fixes the problem.

 

Well, my car consistantly starts when its warm,, none of this 'when I feel like it' crap. But, it still doesnt like starting in the morning (turns over for 2 seconds before it catches or stumbles to life). Could this be the EACV at fault?

 

Have you replaced the EACV gaskets with as many times as you've taken it off?

 

Nope, not once. Although, thats a good idea, there could be an air leak there.

But it still drops to 500 rpm when I hit the clutch, then bounces to my 1100 rpm idle. I think the EACV is bad, but I'll hit it up with some liquid gasket just in case.

 

The proper part is only a few dollars from Honda, don't use liquid gasket.