sohc convert to dohc?
you mean swapping dohc head on a sohc bolck. uhhhhh........................NO!!!!!! not possible. Unless you taking about the ZC, which im not even sure if thats possible becaue i think the ZC DOHC version head is wider than any sohc block.
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how much extra are we talking here? i just want the stocker to breathe better. i know the dohc will provide more air but i dont know if its much better than a ported and polished sohc stock head...is it?
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Saying that sticking with the sohc because it isnt that bad is probably the smartest thing i have ever read on ghis site. Listen to him, because he is right. I agree 100%. STICK WITH THE D!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
what do you mean single valve? IF you mean 1 intake and one exhaust valve per cylinder then it just depends. Cx's have on intake and exhaust per cylinder but the vtec z6 and y8 have 16 valve, which is 2 intake and 2 exhaust per clyinder.
AHHH i goofed, i was thinking of the hunk a junk i had before this one. it was one intake one exhaust. oops. this is a 16, but im still wondering if its any better than a dual cam 16 valve. im doing some heavy mods on this motor anyways and im just curious whats gunna give the most bang for my buck...
well, the valves really have nothing to do with it when you are talking about a b and a d series (or are you taking about the ZC DOHC?) Anyway, the extra cam on the b-series is where the power comes from, not the valves. What kind of major modding are you doing? boost or NA. The previous issue of honda tuning compared what a d-series with basic bolt-ons would do against a sotck b16. The d-series put down a tad bit more horsepower wtih i/e cam and p29 pistons from a ZC. The only reason im telling you that is because by the time you swap a b, you will have $2000 plus in it and it will still be stock. Put $2000 in your d and you can be pushing out near 155-160WHP and beating swapped b's all day long. By the way, the d-series in hinda tuning put down 141 whp with basic boltons and pistons. Think about it.....swapping is expensive, and if you blow the swapped motor, you have to spend another $2000 to get it replaced. Blow a d and spend $300 to get it replaced. Either way, i say stick with the D. NA is expenisve, but so is swapping.....if you boost, without a doubt go with the d.
well im starting the tear down on saturday. since ive been advised to keep the single cam im going to port and polish, swap to a 272 degree cam, and take in the head for a 3 angle valve cut. im going to go with boost, na wont get my numbers up as high as i want to. im going to go with a CP forged 9.1:1 compression pistons so i can run more boost, and an 81.5mm bore. i dont know the stock bore but i may get a resleeve and start fresh. but so far thats what ive come up with...oh and i ordered a ls crank. should be a fun build...
stock bore is 75mm........
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if you want 81.5mm, you wont be able to get it without buying aftermarket sleevs, and even then i dont know for sure if it will work. Stock sleeves can safely be bored .002" over. The pistons are a good choice...i would look into eagle rods. If you are going to sleeve, buy them and keep them 75mm. Learn from peoples mistakes;boring them causes them to become weaker and if you are wanting to run high boost, that is the exact oppisite of what you want. Trust me, the turbo will make up for the displacement you have. With the turbo on there, you wont know the difference between overbored or stock bore. Also, i wouldnt necessarily upgrade the crank. yours is good up to 400whp. If you sleeve you block with darton sleeves (best for the d in my opinion), put forged rods and pistons in and get a large turbo with good components with the turbo system, AND A GOOD TUNE (MOST IMPORTANT THING!!!!!) then you can put down 400whp no problem, especially with the ported head and delta 272 cam.
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if you want 81.5mm, you wont be able to get it without buying aftermarket sleevs, and even then i dont know for sure if it will work. Stock sleeves can safely be bored .002" over. The pistons are a good choice...i would look into eagle rods. If you are going to sleeve, buy them and keep them 75mm. Learn from peoples mistakes;boring them causes them to become weaker and if you are wanting to run high boost, that is the exact oppisite of what you want. Trust me, the turbo will make up for the displacement you have. With the turbo on there, you wont know the difference between overbored or stock bore. Also, i wouldnt necessarily upgrade the crank. yours is good up to 400whp. If you sleeve you block with darton sleeves (best for the d in my opinion), put forged rods and pistons in and get a large turbo with good components with the turbo system, AND A GOOD TUNE (MOST IMPORTANT THING!!!!!) then you can put down 400whp no problem, especially with the ported head and delta 272 cam.
OK I see a lot miss leading info in this thread...first off no you can't swap a DOHC head onto a SOHC(not even ZC SOHC) the only exception I have heard of is the EW motors fro the pre 87 civic/crx with the D16a1 head
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by luelf21 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well, the valves really have nothing to do with it when you are talking about a b and a d series (or are you taking about the ZC DOHC?) Anyway, the extra cam on the b-series is where the power comes from, not the valves. What kind of major modding are you doing? boost or NA. The previous issue of honda tuning compared what a d-series with basic bolt-ons would do against a sotck b16. The d-series put down a tad bit more horsepower wtih i/e cam and p29 pistons from a ZC. The only reason im telling you that is because by the time you swap a b, you will have $2000 plus in it and it will still be stock. Put $2000 in your d and you can be pushing out near 155-160WHP and beating swapped b's all day long. By the way, the d-series in hinda tuning put down 141 whp with basic boltons and pistons. Think about it.....swapping is expensive, and if you blow the swapped motor, you have to spend another $2000 to get it replaced. Blow a d and spend $300 to get it replaced. Either way, i say stick with the D. NA is expenisve, but so is swapping.....if you boost, without a doubt go with the d.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I agree with some of this however an LS swap can be had for under $1000..mine was, actually a lot less than 1K and if the motor blows its only gonna cost me $100 for the replacement, which I have 2 sitting here
even a B16 long block can be had for around $800 so you cost seem to be out of wack
Overall it comes down to your power goals, if you want to have 200hp-250hp yea stay D series if you want to make real power 300-350 you can make that on a stock LS or built D and anywhere above that would be a built B
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chaddman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well im starting the tear down on saturday. since ive been advised to keep the single cam im going to port and polish, swap to a 272 degree cam, and take in the head for a 3 angle valve cut. im going to go with boost, na wont get my numbers up as high as i want to. im going to go with a CP forged 9.1:1 compression pistons so i can run more boost, and an 81.5mm bore. i dont know the stock bore but i may get a resleeve and start fresh. but so far thats what ive come up with...oh and i ordered a ls crank. should be a fun build...</TD></TR></TABLE>
lower compression pistons means you can run higher boost but maybe not more power..its all in the tune, you could make the same power with higher compression and make it more efficently, just making sure you don't get that interent net mumbo jumbo mixed up and also you ordered an LS crank? what to put in your D series motor?
my suggestion is if you are on a budget just boost an a6 or a DOHC ZC but I recomend a LS swap and boost
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by luelf21 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well, the valves really have nothing to do with it when you are talking about a b and a d series (or are you taking about the ZC DOHC?) Anyway, the extra cam on the b-series is where the power comes from, not the valves. What kind of major modding are you doing? boost or NA. The previous issue of honda tuning compared what a d-series with basic bolt-ons would do against a sotck b16. The d-series put down a tad bit more horsepower wtih i/e cam and p29 pistons from a ZC. The only reason im telling you that is because by the time you swap a b, you will have $2000 plus in it and it will still be stock. Put $2000 in your d and you can be pushing out near 155-160WHP and beating swapped b's all day long. By the way, the d-series in hinda tuning put down 141 whp with basic boltons and pistons. Think about it.....swapping is expensive, and if you blow the swapped motor, you have to spend another $2000 to get it replaced. Blow a d and spend $300 to get it replaced. Either way, i say stick with the D. NA is expenisve, but so is swapping.....if you boost, without a doubt go with the d.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I agree with some of this however an LS swap can be had for under $1000..mine was, actually a lot less than 1K and if the motor blows its only gonna cost me $100 for the replacement, which I have 2 sitting here
even a B16 long block can be had for around $800 so you cost seem to be out of wackOverall it comes down to your power goals, if you want to have 200hp-250hp yea stay D series if you want to make real power 300-350 you can make that on a stock LS or built D and anywhere above that would be a built B
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chaddman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well im starting the tear down on saturday. since ive been advised to keep the single cam im going to port and polish, swap to a 272 degree cam, and take in the head for a 3 angle valve cut. im going to go with boost, na wont get my numbers up as high as i want to. im going to go with a CP forged 9.1:1 compression pistons so i can run more boost, and an 81.5mm bore. i dont know the stock bore but i may get a resleeve and start fresh. but so far thats what ive come up with...oh and i ordered a ls crank. should be a fun build...</TD></TR></TABLE>
lower compression pistons means you can run higher boost but maybe not more power..its all in the tune, you could make the same power with higher compression and make it more efficently, just making sure you don't get that interent net mumbo jumbo mixed up and also you ordered an LS crank? what to put in your D series motor?
my suggestion is if you are on a budget just boost an a6 or a DOHC ZC but I recomend a LS swap and boost
i dont really want to swap, yeah it might be better in the long run but if all these guys are saying i dont really need to then im not going to waste the extra time and money on it when i could use those same pennies for more goodies on the d. thats all. oh i know i can make the same power with the higher comp. but i dont want to risk snapping a rod in the future. id rather run lower compression with more boost or medium comp. with medium boost. i dont know yet though, i havnt even started building...
dude, check out the forced induction forum on honduh tech and also check out http://d-series.org forced induction forum and engine building forum. the d-series site has people's setups posted with hp/torque results listed also.
If you want better breathing 2 cams is not the answer, ask Bisi. The F23 head apparently has better flow characteristics the then the H22, the number of cams just allows you more options in changing your valve timing. For better breathing, port and polish the head, get a good intake manifold and have it port matched, get a bigger TB, etc. If you have a good SOHC cam, or in Bisi's case a sponsor who makes cams specific to your setup then you're straight.
Don't get too bogged down with your SOHC, since they're in little demand parts are cheap. Build it and when you beat people with DOHC's ask them why they spent so much to be slower then you. It can be done, and it has.
Don't get too bogged down with your SOHC, since they're in little demand parts are cheap. Build it and when you beat people with DOHC's ask them why they spent so much to be slower then you. It can be done, and it has.
Grr, I probably have less money into my LS swap and turbo then he will hve in his built D turbo and I'll still make close to 300hp....
Plain and simple B is greater than D for power...figure out what power you want to make and then choose the proper motor yea you can make Power on a D, yea there have been a few 500hp D's which is more than enough but you can make 300 on a stock B where a D is going to be about 200 before you loose your ringlands...B's have stronger internals stock than Ds...yea a turbo D is going tobeat a stock B16 and depending on the car it will cost the same for either option
The info on SOHC v. DOHC may apply to H and F series but if you are talking about D the ZC flows better...but you can port out any SOHC and compair it to a stock flowing head but you are compairing apples to oranges....
Well i still haven't seen this guys goals for his car and what he wants it for that should be what decides what motor and NA or boost
my opinion for a boosted D go with the DOHC ZC or an A6 I'm not a fan of vtec and when it comes to tuning you'd have to it for 2 sets of maps and the a6 head canflow pretty well for a port and polish
Oh and you said you were going to get pistons you better get some decent rods too and then you wouldn't have to worry about running stock or higher compression...when you do plan out your build for what ever motor look at the week points on a Honda motor ringlands-rods-sleeves(either resleeve or post the block
)
Get some power goals and some info on what the car is for and you will get some real answers and not waste any money
Plain and simple B is greater than D for power...figure out what power you want to make and then choose the proper motor yea you can make Power on a D, yea there have been a few 500hp D's which is more than enough but you can make 300 on a stock B where a D is going to be about 200 before you loose your ringlands...B's have stronger internals stock than Ds...yea a turbo D is going tobeat a stock B16 and depending on the car it will cost the same for either option
The info on SOHC v. DOHC may apply to H and F series but if you are talking about D the ZC flows better...but you can port out any SOHC and compair it to a stock flowing head but you are compairing apples to oranges....
Well i still haven't seen this guys goals for his car and what he wants it for that should be what decides what motor and NA or boost
my opinion for a boosted D go with the DOHC ZC or an A6 I'm not a fan of vtec and when it comes to tuning you'd have to it for 2 sets of maps and the a6 head canflow pretty well for a port and polish
Oh and you said you were going to get pistons you better get some decent rods too and then you wouldn't have to worry about running stock or higher compression...when you do plan out your build for what ever motor look at the week points on a Honda motor ringlands-rods-sleeves(either resleeve or post the block
)Get some power goals and some info on what the car is for and you will get some real answers and not waste any money
im not going to be wasting money, i only started this thread thing because i had a question. im not doing a swap either. im also not some punk kid who's broke as a joke. so id appreciate it if youd ease up off my back about how much ill be spending and what i plan on doing. i dont mean to be rude, but this is my car that im building, and i know you all mean well but i dont need to be told how to build my own car, and spend my own money. like i said im sorry im being rude and thankyou everyone very much for the advice.
Nha sorry if I am coming off that way I just see a lot of misleading info here and want to clear it up, build what you want to but just trying to let you know that what you build should meet your power goals and what your plans are for the car, well I'll leave this thread alone now but good luck


