Oil temps on track
i just put a gauge setup in the car for track days, this past weekend(hyperfest) was my first day with them. everything was good except oil temp was high(IMHO)
on the first day temps reached 285*F with mobil 1(thats what the car has run since i bought it)
day 2 switched to reline, on the 2nd session my peak temp was 297*F
i spoke to a few guys in the pits, i was told by one guy that he sees 240, and another told me that im ok up to 300, past 300 would be considered too high.
so my 3rd session to keep temps down i was shifting before vtec down the front straight, my 280 warning light never came on
so if anyone can throw any input on this that would be a ton of help for this weekend(pocono)
on the first day temps reached 285*F with mobil 1(thats what the car has run since i bought it)
day 2 switched to reline, on the 2nd session my peak temp was 297*F
i spoke to a few guys in the pits, i was told by one guy that he sees 240, and another told me that im ok up to 300, past 300 would be considered too high.
so my 3rd session to keep temps down i was shifting before vtec down the front straight, my 280 warning light never came on
so if anyone can throw any input on this that would be a ton of help for this weekend(pocono)
I always thought the R was supposed to have a oil cooler that was sufficient for light track use, but from your readings it suggests that the R could benefit from an aftermarket oil cooler.
Did you have your heater going?
I don't have gauges yet, but the "trick" is apparently to slide the heat all the way to hot and leave the fan speed on "1"
But if it gets way too hot, then you might want to leave it on full blast.... mega discomfort though...
I don't have gauges yet, but the "trick" is apparently to slide the heat all the way to hot and leave the fan speed on "1"
But if it gets way too hot, then you might want to leave it on full blast.... mega discomfort though...
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Stock Oil cooler in a R is likely useless for track. its just a small water bypass at the oil filter area(the place where you install the oil sandwitch),
I have seen 134C once in track with Motul V300 Power. I would say anything over 260F is getting a little danger.
you should invest a external mount oil cooler(10 rows will be enough). open heat only drops it a little which is not sufficient enough..
I have seen 134C once in track with Motul V300 Power. I would say anything over 260F is getting a little danger.
you should invest a external mount oil cooler(10 rows will be enough). open heat only drops it a little which is not sufficient enough..
i told you not to get an oil temp meter.....
210 was the hottest i saw all weekend with a cooler (crappy B&m) dont worry about what you saw. it was hot. get a cooler and be done or just stop looking at the temps.
you should post this question in rr/ax for more ideas on oil temps.
210 was the hottest i saw all weekend with a cooler (crappy B&m) dont worry about what you saw. it was hot. get a cooler and be done or just stop looking at the temps.
you should post this question in rr/ax for more ideas on oil temps.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lo-Buck EF »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i told you not to get an oil temp meter.....</TD></TR></TABLE>
When I asked the RRAX forum "How do I fix oil temps of 315F", Scott (RR98IR) suggested I put tape over the oil temp gauge.
Thinner oil runs cooler.
315F doesn't hurt Mobil1 15w50
So- burn it up man, I wouldn't worry about it. First try to run the heat on and get rid of the weather strip at the back of the hood.
-Chris
When I asked the RRAX forum "How do I fix oil temps of 315F", Scott (RR98IR) suggested I put tape over the oil temp gauge.
Thinner oil runs cooler.
315F doesn't hurt Mobil1 15w50
So- burn it up man, I wouldn't worry about it. First try to run the heat on and get rid of the weather strip at the back of the hood.
-Chris
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris F »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
315F doesn't hurt Mobil1 15w50
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Being curious of myself. I have been told by some track mechs try not to exceed 130 C...thats like 270F..
So...about the 315F information is... as i have seen someones engine siezed and the oil temp gauge peak reading pointing at 138..
315F doesn't hurt Mobil1 15w50
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Being curious of myself. I have been told by some track mechs try not to exceed 130 C...thats like 270F..
So...about the 315F information is... as i have seen someones engine siezed and the oil temp gauge peak reading pointing at 138..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sinister6 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Being curious of myself. I have been told by some track mechs try not to exceed 130 C...thats like 270F..
So...about the 315F information is... as i have seen someones engine siezed and the oil temp gauge peak reading pointing at 138..</TD></TR></TABLE>
I've run my motor for at least 10 hours (not continuous) at 300+ with no problems.
Well, no lubricating problems anyway. 315F is 157C.
Why would a motor freeze? That's more to do with piston temps than oil temps. ITR's have oil squirters to keep the pistons cool (Which also heats the oil, but that's life).
Edit: "Try to stay under 270F" ... that's definitely a good goal. 300F isn't bad. Not sure what the limit is with synthetics, they will get pretty thin at high temps.
Stick with any oil that's ACEA A3 rated. Not A1/A5, A3. A3 maintains its viscosity at high temps.
Being curious of myself. I have been told by some track mechs try not to exceed 130 C...thats like 270F..
So...about the 315F information is... as i have seen someones engine siezed and the oil temp gauge peak reading pointing at 138..</TD></TR></TABLE>
I've run my motor for at least 10 hours (not continuous) at 300+ with no problems.
Well, no lubricating problems anyway. 315F is 157C.Why would a motor freeze? That's more to do with piston temps than oil temps. ITR's have oil squirters to keep the pistons cool (Which also heats the oil, but that's life).
Edit: "Try to stay under 270F" ... that's definitely a good goal. 300F isn't bad. Not sure what the limit is with synthetics, they will get pretty thin at high temps.
Stick with any oil that's ACEA A3 rated. Not A1/A5, A3. A3 maintains its viscosity at high temps.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lo-Buck EF »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i told you not to get an oil temp meter.....
210 was the hottest i saw all weekend with a cooler (crappy B&m) dont worry about what you saw. it was hot. get a cooler and be done or just stop looking at the temps.
you should post this question in rr/ax for more ideas on oil temps.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i wassnt watching it, i checked the peak after the run, we only saw 280somthin, then switched back to oil pressure.
and in a way its good i got the temp sensor, now i know maybe i should do somthing about it..
<---- home sick, the food at the diner accross the street from where u work got me sick last night
210 was the hottest i saw all weekend with a cooler (crappy B&m) dont worry about what you saw. it was hot. get a cooler and be done or just stop looking at the temps.
you should post this question in rr/ax for more ideas on oil temps.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i wassnt watching it, i checked the peak after the run, we only saw 280somthin, then switched back to oil pressure.
and in a way its good i got the temp sensor, now i know maybe i should do somthing about it..
<---- home sick, the food at the diner accross the street from where u work got me sick last night
This tread makes me want to go buy a hot plate and start heating up oil to see where it starts to bake onto the dish. Spoon doesn't run a oil temp gauge in their cars from my understanding.. I wouldn't bother if I wasn't such a ricer.. My race car has pretty much every gauge you can buy.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lo-Buck EF »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">chris f-your seeing that oil temp with the greddy cooler?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I had been.
I started using thinner oil (0w40) and propped the back of the hood. Now it's a nice comfortable 260-280.
I had been.
I started using thinner oil (0w40) and propped the back of the hood. Now it's a nice comfortable 260-280.
yea, i have the back of the ef's hood propped as well. just as a procautionary measure.
the thinner oil actually helped the temps come down some?
have you thought of using a larger cooler or do you think that would induce too much pressure drop?
the thinner oil actually helped the temps come down some?
have you thought of using a larger cooler or do you think that would induce too much pressure drop?
I'm sure Wai can chime in about his setup regarding the Spoon kaa. But from what I recall discussing with him and when I got to drive it (in the parking lot
) there is NO oil temp gauge. Only oil pressure.
The reason why most people don't see the OEM oil cooler being as effective as it SHOULD BE, is because of its inherent design - it's a liquid exchange type.
So how do you get the temps to be more controllable? Well....I would think you'd have to make the cooling system more efficient - in short making it larger in capacity. Captain obvious says 5L of fluid will absorb and exchange more heat than 2L
(or whatever the stock vs. Spoon system takes)
If you look at the Spoon kAa it has a huge *** N1 radiator and those nifty fins on the top and side to ensure any incoming airflow is forced through the radiator. (Think integrated carbing cooling plate)
The other thing to do is get a kickout pan and run more oil. If Spoon can run this particular setup in their race cars in sprint and enduros, I would think it's more than enough for the rest of us.
This obviously takes into account that your motor setup is relatively stock like Spoon (no "crazy" high compression)
) there is NO oil temp gauge. Only oil pressure.The reason why most people don't see the OEM oil cooler being as effective as it SHOULD BE, is because of its inherent design - it's a liquid exchange type.
So how do you get the temps to be more controllable? Well....I would think you'd have to make the cooling system more efficient - in short making it larger in capacity. Captain obvious says 5L of fluid will absorb and exchange more heat than 2L
(or whatever the stock vs. Spoon system takes)If you look at the Spoon kAa it has a huge *** N1 radiator and those nifty fins on the top and side to ensure any incoming airflow is forced through the radiator. (Think integrated carbing cooling plate)
The other thing to do is get a kickout pan and run more oil. If Spoon can run this particular setup in their race cars in sprint and enduros, I would think it's more than enough for the rest of us.
This obviously takes into account that your motor setup is relatively stock like Spoon (no "crazy" high compression)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lo-Buck EF »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yea, i have the back of the ef's hood propped as well. just as a procautionary measure.
the thinner oil actually helped the temps come down some?
have you thought of using a larger cooler or do you think that would induce too much pressure drop?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, the thinner oil cooled it off. Definitely worth a try for those worried about oil temps, especially if you went and ran 15w50 like I was running
I haven't bothered considering a larger oil cooler. I have considered trying to get more clean air to it, but currently I'm not even a little worried about oil temps.
-Chris
the thinner oil actually helped the temps come down some?
have you thought of using a larger cooler or do you think that would induce too much pressure drop?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, the thinner oil cooled it off. Definitely worth a try for those worried about oil temps, especially if you went and ran 15w50 like I was running

I haven't bothered considering a larger oil cooler. I have considered trying to get more clean air to it, but currently I'm not even a little worried about oil temps.
-Chris
I've seen my oil temp meter peg 300* F on a hot day at the track, little hot in my opinion, spirited driving will net me ~240 dependent upon the atmospheric conditions.
Austin
Austin
i've racing my itr 1 year with mobil sintetic 5w50 at sea level my gauge peaks 150C, on the back of the can says 204C guarantied protection that's over 300F.
great oil
great oil
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RagingAngel »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did you have your heater going?
I don't have gauges yet, but the "trick" is apparently to slide the heat all the way to hot and leave the fan speed on "1"
But if it gets way too hot, then you might want to leave it on full blast.... mega discomfort though...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
did that last year at hyperfest...discomfort? no... even at full blast hi heat the thing was cooling ME down...the temp was so hot last year outside
I don't have gauges yet, but the "trick" is apparently to slide the heat all the way to hot and leave the fan speed on "1"
But if it gets way too hot, then you might want to leave it on full blast.... mega discomfort though...
</TD></TR></TABLE>did that last year at hyperfest...discomfort? no... even at full blast hi heat the thing was cooling ME down...the temp was so hot last year outside
I have to admit it's been a while for me since I've been on track, but it's become common practice for me -almost like peace of mind- to turn the heater on.
A lot of people will opt to get an oil cooler before looking into the radiator...but I firmly believe if your motor is rather mild....then you really don't need to get an oil cooler but just a bigger radiator + proper ducting.
A lot of people will opt to get an oil cooler before looking into the radiator...but I firmly believe if your motor is rather mild....then you really don't need to get an oil cooler but just a bigger radiator + proper ducting.



. It's cool because your windows are down anyways.