Suspension question (lowering springs one side sits higher)
Alright, I posted this in the suspension forum, but I figured I'd post in here too seeing as I own an ED and perhaps some others have had this same problem/would care to shed some light on this.
Original thread here: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1684275
Problem:
" Alright so I did a search and supposedly it's normal for one side to sit lower than the other when lowering your car. However, in every thread that I looked at, the driver's side supposedly sags a bit lower than the passenger's side. On my car, it's the passenger's side that sags lower than the driver's side!
Can anyone tell me what's up with this? My driver's side is a full 1 finger gap higher than the passenger's. Why is it that on every other lowered car (with springs), the driver's side sits lower than the passenger's?!
Thanks ahead of time
Btw, my car has been lowered for about 3 weeks now. Is this enough time for the springs to settle? When I originally lowered the car, both sides were of equal height (to be expected from what I've read). Just hoping that my driver's side sags a bit lower to even out the stance like every other car! "
-- I've searched a lot regarding this issue, and from every case I've read about it's the opposite side that sits higher, and not by the amount I've got leading me to believe that something is seriously fubar-ed.
I'll try to snap some pics later of just how off the suspension is from the jacking points/fenders...my first time installing suspension in a Honda, I guess everything is a learning experience
.
Thanks a lot!
Original thread here: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1684275
Problem:
" Alright so I did a search and supposedly it's normal for one side to sit lower than the other when lowering your car. However, in every thread that I looked at, the driver's side supposedly sags a bit lower than the passenger's side. On my car, it's the passenger's side that sags lower than the driver's side!
Can anyone tell me what's up with this? My driver's side is a full 1 finger gap higher than the passenger's. Why is it that on every other lowered car (with springs), the driver's side sits lower than the passenger's?!
Thanks ahead of time
Btw, my car has been lowered for about 3 weeks now. Is this enough time for the springs to settle? When I originally lowered the car, both sides were of equal height (to be expected from what I've read). Just hoping that my driver's side sags a bit lower to even out the stance like every other car! "
-- I've searched a lot regarding this issue, and from every case I've read about it's the opposite side that sits higher, and not by the amount I've got leading me to believe that something is seriously fubar-ed.
I'll try to snap some pics later of just how off the suspension is from the jacking points/fenders...my first time installing suspension in a Honda, I guess everything is a learning experience
. Thanks a lot!
Are the right springs in the right location. Springs on the rear tend to be higher then the ones on the front. If you play mix and match, you might get the rear ones on the passenger side and giving it a slant.
I'm 100% sure the correct springs are in the correct location (running H&R OE sports). Followed the instructions and saw no indication of a left or right side, but front and rear is correct.
Would swapping over the front passenger's side spring to the driver's side and vice versa make a difference? Any other ED/EF owners out there care to chime in?
Thanks a lot!
Would swapping over the front passenger's side spring to the driver's side and vice versa make a difference? Any other ED/EF owners out there care to chime in?
Thanks a lot!
Fixed it somewhat, but I still dunno wtf the problem is. Pulled everything apart on the driver's side, re-assembled, and now the driver's side is only like...a 3/4 to 1 finger gap off from the passenger's side. I can live with that
(was 2 finger gaps on pass and 4 finger gaps on driver's before
).
(was 2 finger gaps on pass and 4 finger gaps on driver's before
).
you guys do know youre supposed to zero out the bushings whenever you reinstlal suspension...
the stock rubber bushings are made of a inner metal sleeve and an outer metal sleeve. there is rubber filled between the two and bonded to the surface of both sleeves. the inner sleeve can only rotate so much relative to the outer sleeve because the rubber only allows so much stretch. it also stretches elastically, like a spring. bushings actually contribute to the spring rate of your suspension. when you tighten the bolt to the bushing, it locks the relative position of the inner sleeve to the outer sleeve, plus the range of motion and spring force the bushing allows.
if you do not reset your bushings, then the bushing is forced to be in a stretched position most of the time at an outer range of the intended motion, instead of resting at the middle, unstretched position. and once you over stretch the bushing, it loses its capacity to stretch and breaks the rubber like a rubber band. which is how you easily kill a bushing. gone is the spring rate of the bushing and will likely deteriorate faster and cause slop in positioning the inner sleeve concentric to the outer sleeve.
to reset your bushings, put the car on 4 jackstands. take the wheels off. loosen the suspension bolts. put a jack under one of the suspension corners and raise it until that corner is off the jack stand. bounce the car a bit. then tighten. dont forget to tighten a bolt youve already loosened.
the stock rubber bushings are made of a inner metal sleeve and an outer metal sleeve. there is rubber filled between the two and bonded to the surface of both sleeves. the inner sleeve can only rotate so much relative to the outer sleeve because the rubber only allows so much stretch. it also stretches elastically, like a spring. bushings actually contribute to the spring rate of your suspension. when you tighten the bolt to the bushing, it locks the relative position of the inner sleeve to the outer sleeve, plus the range of motion and spring force the bushing allows.
if you do not reset your bushings, then the bushing is forced to be in a stretched position most of the time at an outer range of the intended motion, instead of resting at the middle, unstretched position. and once you over stretch the bushing, it loses its capacity to stretch and breaks the rubber like a rubber band. which is how you easily kill a bushing. gone is the spring rate of the bushing and will likely deteriorate faster and cause slop in positioning the inner sleeve concentric to the outer sleeve.
to reset your bushings, put the car on 4 jackstands. take the wheels off. loosen the suspension bolts. put a jack under one of the suspension corners and raise it until that corner is off the jack stand. bounce the car a bit. then tighten. dont forget to tighten a bolt youve already loosened.
Trending Topics
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fastnlow93teg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wow..that makes sense..but i have honestly never ever heard of that before...</TD></TR></TABLE>
its in the helms manual.
its in the helms manual.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post




But I'll definately come to you when it comes time to drop my car!

