DIY rust repair
I thought I would do a write up on how to do rust repair.
Items needed:
1 stick Perma Poxy 4 min multimetal epoxy
1 Por 15 Super Starter kit
1 4 min JB weld
1 paint stripping wheel
1 drill
1 12.5 oz can primer
Assortment of grinders/cutting wheel and dremel
Assortment of hand tools
1. before shots


2. Cut, grind and strip paint and rust away. With Por 15 you dont need to get all of the rust out as it bonds to the rust and the other chemicals in the kit a degreaser ... and more important a chemical that neutralizes rust (phosphoric acid) will stop the oxidation from progressing any further.



3. After most of the rust and paint is gone in the areas use the degreaser like the directions say. Then user the metal prep chemical (Phosphoric acid) like the directions say.
4 JB weld support pieces in as needed.



5 Brush on the Por 15, apply at least 2 coats as per directions.



I also did the inside of the wheel well and the inside lip as well for added future protection.
6. Use the Perma Poxy like model clay .... once mixed push it into the areas that have holes where the support pieces are. Make sure you work fast as it gets hard quick .... the more you shape it now the less filing and sanding you will need to do later.
Remember that whole in the rear section? Where did it go?

7 Mask an area past the repair area about 2 times of what the size of the repair was, sand with some 400 wet/dry. The mask makes it so you dont damage any of the good paint. Once sanding has been done (getting all of the clear off in that area, Prime with a few light coats. You want to build up the primer a bit so when your ready to lay down the top coat you can feather it so you wont be able to see the repaired area.



I still need to topcoat it and clear coat it .... Waiting for paintscratch.com paint to come in.
I hope this helps .... sorry for the typos and if you have any questions please PM me.
Items needed:
1 stick Perma Poxy 4 min multimetal epoxy
1 Por 15 Super Starter kit
1 4 min JB weld
1 paint stripping wheel
1 drill
1 12.5 oz can primer
Assortment of grinders/cutting wheel and dremel
Assortment of hand tools
1. before shots


2. Cut, grind and strip paint and rust away. With Por 15 you dont need to get all of the rust out as it bonds to the rust and the other chemicals in the kit a degreaser ... and more important a chemical that neutralizes rust (phosphoric acid) will stop the oxidation from progressing any further.



3. After most of the rust and paint is gone in the areas use the degreaser like the directions say. Then user the metal prep chemical (Phosphoric acid) like the directions say.
4 JB weld support pieces in as needed.



5 Brush on the Por 15, apply at least 2 coats as per directions.



I also did the inside of the wheel well and the inside lip as well for added future protection.
6. Use the Perma Poxy like model clay .... once mixed push it into the areas that have holes where the support pieces are. Make sure you work fast as it gets hard quick .... the more you shape it now the less filing and sanding you will need to do later.
Remember that whole in the rear section? Where did it go?

7 Mask an area past the repair area about 2 times of what the size of the repair was, sand with some 400 wet/dry. The mask makes it so you dont damage any of the good paint. Once sanding has been done (getting all of the clear off in that area, Prime with a few light coats. You want to build up the primer a bit so when your ready to lay down the top coat you can feather it so you wont be able to see the repaired area.



I still need to topcoat it and clear coat it .... Waiting for paintscratch.com paint to come in.
I hope this helps .... sorry for the typos and if you have any questions please PM me.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NAPIER »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">kinda a half-*** way to do it ,but i guess its better then having rust there</TD></TR></TABLE>
didnt know half assed was to cut out the rust and replace metal ... and if your talking about the JB weld and perma poxy ..... go look what your car is held together with at most seams...
for a flamer
didnt know half assed was to cut out the rust and replace metal ... and if your talking about the JB weld and perma poxy ..... go look what your car is held together with at most seams...
for a flamer
I wasent flaming you dude chill out and last time i checked my car was spot welded together and the seams filled with seam sealer. oh and check out these videos http://www.voodoo-people.com/~daz/mull/wmv/ you might learn something
and btw i would suggest not arguing with me cuz i work at a body shop and i doo this ALLLLL day so im just gunna tell you how it is. if i were u i would just wait it out until u have cash and do it right. you have to cut all the discolored metal out. and jb weld isnt gunna hold all the **** together for 2 long
i may have to agree with the guy above, I have done this before too and it looks like you may have not cut up enough, I would bet within the next year from today you will see it bubbling again
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I also have to admit that you "DIY" is somewhat half assed but as you said does look better than the rust. JB weld is something i personally will never use on my car. My dad and i have fixed the rust "the right way" before. Trust me, the job you did wont last more than 2 years...well in the shitty winters up here in wi.
A good thing to add in you DIY is concerning the POR15. USE RUBBER GLOVES. If you get that **** on ur hands, it wont come off for atleast a month...well the black stuff i used didnt. Lacquer thinner and a bunch of other chemicals wouldnt even remove it. Also, when i used por 15, i never even put that **** on before the por 15 itself. I just used a wire wheel on a drill, got all that rust off, and went at it. My dad never did it on his restored mustang and the rust hasnt come back....after 7 years so far. POR 15 FTW!
A good thing to add in you DIY is concerning the POR15. USE RUBBER GLOVES. If you get that **** on ur hands, it wont come off for atleast a month...well the black stuff i used didnt. Lacquer thinner and a bunch of other chemicals wouldnt even remove it. Also, when i used por 15, i never even put that **** on before the por 15 itself. I just used a wire wheel on a drill, got all that rust off, and went at it. My dad never did it on his restored mustang and the rust hasnt come back....after 7 years so far. POR 15 FTW!
eh its decent and no your car isnt held together by jb weld and ****.... that stuff around all the seams in your car is called SEAM SEALER, its applied after the factory spot welds the car together, its kind of like backup protection for the body structureand it makes it water tight.....
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