on my alignment? See below the current alignment which was done almost an year back Front: corss camber: 0.0 deg, coss caster: 0.3 deg, total toe: -1.88 deg
Rear : thrust angle: -0.01 deg, total toe: -0.03 deg

When I posted here some time back, the reccomendations were
Front: 1/8th of Toe-out in the front. That's -0.06 each corner for a total of -0.12
Rear: slight toe-in the rear: +0.03 to +0.05 each corner for a total of +0.06 or +0.10. If you want the car to rotate better then run some toe-out in the rear
like 1/12th toe-out: -0.03 each wheel for a total of -0.06".

btw Car is a 99 GSR running on 400 Front and 450 Rear GC's and Koni yellows. Type-R rear sway bar, wrapped in Falken Azenis, Corner weighed etc
I also have another car as a daily driver so Integra is NOT driven on a daily basis/ long commutes etc but I do drive it on the streets regularly.
Since tire wear, comfort etc are not a major concern, I think its OK to go with some aggressive settings.

Based on my current set up, should I be making the alignemnt change? Is it going to make some difference? thanks for your inputs
Thanks

 

track, i'd go with zero toe all around.

autox, put 1/8" toe out up front to make it turn in a little quicker. I don't like toe-in at the back end of those cars, even with a 400/500 spring setup on Yellows and a ITR rear bar, it's pretty neutral so long as you don't jerk the wheel where you shouldn't.

 

any comments on my current alignment settings?

After the new alignemnt setiing, should I be seeing some noticebale differences?

thanks


Modified by schumi at 3:49 PM 7/9/2006


Modified by schumi at 5:42 PM 7/9/2006

 

what I am trying to find out is, given my current set up which is mentioned above should I be spending money for a new alignment set up ?

 

some one should have some comments

 

to top

 

Most of the guys who REALLY play with this have gone to other forums.

I run zero toe in the rear wherever I go. The front varies with the type of track I'm running:
• Willow Springs/Cal Speedway (fast with LOOooong straights I run zero front toe
• Button Willow/Streets of Willow (tighter, more technical with more turns) I run 1/16" to 5/32" front toe out.

This is only my first season playing with alignment, so I am hardly an expert. Seems though that the more toe you give it (front) the better the turn-in. Down sides are inncreased tire wear, lower top speed and poorer stability under braking.

Any toe beyond zero at the rear will give you a loose condition. I have yet to meet a driver/crew chief who thinks that that is a good idea, but I haven't met them all yet...

Thawley -- now with more aero


Photo by Casey Heerman

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by schumi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Front: corss camber: 0.0 deg, coss caster: 0.3 deg, total toe: -1.88 deg</TD></TR></TABLE>

Your camber is crap. Get more camber.

Your toe is ABSOLUTE crap too. Way too much. That's like 3/4 inch total toe out. Start at zero and add toe out to compensate for understeer and slow turn-in for autocross.

http://www.google.com/search?h...+23.5
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1061318

p.s. no bumping.

p.p.s. I ran about that much toe out once, by accident. Car felt VERY wandery, sorta floated down the road in whichever direction it wanted. It'll feel better with less toe.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris F &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Why would switching from a 16" low profile tire to a 14" high profile tire change your toe? The DEGREES don't change, but the inches would if you use wheel instead of tire as your diameter measurement.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Above quote is from one of the links posted.....

Does this mean that, one should get the alignmment in the same wheel +tire they are planning to run? I am so confused

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by schumi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Above quote is from one of the links posted.....

Does this mean that, one should get the alignmment in the same wheel +tire they are planning to run? I am so confused
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Nah! The degrees are the same. The "inches" are easier to measure, depending on how you align it, and will change with the wheel diameter and measurement point. I've been assuming outer edge of the tire when converting inches to degrees.

 

So, one shuld ask the shop to do the alignment in Degrees NOT in inches.....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by schumi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So, one shuld ask the shop to do the alignment in Degrees NOT in inches..... </TD></TR></TABLE>
Unless it's a race alignment shop, they probably won't know how to measure it in inches. (to answer your question, yes, you're more likely to get what you expect if you ask for it in degrees.)

 

I don't know when they started, but newer Hunter machines can do both degrees and inches. 2 button clicks or so on the setup screen.

 

Most shops have a conversion chart. It is usually attached to the computer stand for the alignment machine

 

How much camber should I run?

Anything else I could specify apart from the toe specs?

Planning to have toe-in of -0.06 each corner at Front and rear toe out (+0.04)

What about cross caster?

 

Do you have caster and/or camber adjustability? If not, then don't worry about it... -2.5 degrees camber is a good place to start at the front end.

Lowering the front end until you get -2 to -2.2 worked pretty well for a DC2 GS-R I set up on 400/500 springs on Koni Sports in the past, but if your particular car doesn't want to gain that camber easily, don't drop the car so low that you start pounding bumpstops/shocks/underbody etc. I'd much rather have not-enough negative camber than not-enough compression travel.

 

[QUOTE=schumi] toe-in of -0.06 each corner at Front and rear toe out (+0.04)
QUOTE]
Actually toe out is negative and toe in is positive. If you don't have adjustable upper control arms/ball joints, caster wont be adjustable

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by schumi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How much camber should I run?

Anything else I could specify apart from the toe specs?

Planning to have toe-in of -0.06 each corner at Front and rear toe out (+0.04)

What about cross caster?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Check tire specs for camber. 3-5 is what Toyo recomments. Also check tire temps.

Where did you pull those toe numbers from? Thawley gave pretty good toe advice above. If you don't get it, get zero toe and just go drive.

 

Whn I requested for alignment settings some time back, the general response I got for a GSR auto-x setup was "Front: 1/8th of Toe-out in the front. That's -0.06 each corner for a total of -0.12
Rear: slight toe-in the rear: +0.03 to +0.05 each corner for a total of +0.06 or +0.10. If you want the car to rotate better then run some toe-out in the rearlike 1/12th toe-out: -0.03 each wheel for a total of -0.06".


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris F &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Where did you pull those toe numbers from? Thawley gave pretty good toe advice above. If you don't get it, get zero toe and just go drive.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The set up given by Thawley seems to be more for track/HPDE ???

where do you get the reccomended camber specs for a tire? Its not avaiable in the Falken web site for Azenis . Not too worried about tire wear since its not a daily driver

 

Guess I was confused by "Planning to have toe-in" .. you want toe out. If you want to run negative toe in, well, I guess that's fine

 

Will let you all know in a couple of days how it feels after the change

Hopefully that floaty feel is gone

 

scheduled for this week end