90 4Dr getting tired, Time for a new long block B20B vs. B18A/B
My daily driver is a 90 Integra LS 4Dr. It's got 225k on the clock. The previous owner must have ran low on oil since it has burned oil since the day I bought it. When I did the first oil change half the pan bolts were missing or finger tight. I've driven it for a year and now I'm going to give it some new life with a jdm long block.
As the title states I'd like to do a B18A/B or B20B.
I like that I would get a little more torque with the B20 and it's cheaper.
I would use all the sensors, IM and exhaust mani from my B18.
*Any reason I should get a B18A/B instead of a B20B?
Thanks,
Eric
As the title states I'd like to do a B18A/B or B20B.
I like that I would get a little more torque with the B20 and it's cheaper.
I would use all the sensors, IM and exhaust mani from my B18.
*Any reason I should get a B18A/B instead of a B20B?
Thanks,
Eric
If its just gonna be your daily driver then get the b18a/b block.The stock cylinder walls are extremely thin.Now if you plan on building the block, I would say b20 because you can fix the problem by relseeving.
We only need to pass the sniffer test in WA if the car is pre obd-II
B20 is cheaper than b18....
http://www.hmotorsonline.com/s...30023
http://www.hmotorsonline.com/s...30025
I'm not so worried about th cylinder walls since this car is not going to get the crap beat out of it. It's just a dd after all.
B20 is cheaper than b18....
http://www.hmotorsonline.com/s...30023
http://www.hmotorsonline.com/s...30025
I'm not so worried about th cylinder walls since this car is not going to get the crap beat out of it. It's just a dd after all.
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