****To preface this post, I'm aware that vtec doesn't work until the motor is warm*****


Everyday, I get up to go to work and I start my 93 accord with my h22. I allow a few minutes for the engine to get warmed up before I slowly pull out of my driveway and head down the road. I see that my temp gauge is warmed up but I withhold my desire to hit vtec. Well I almost get to work (about a 12 mile drive) and find that when I do get on it, vtec doesn't engage at all. After turning the car off all the way and turning it back on, vtec then works and pulls hard every time. Even after I start it for the rest of the day, it engages. I'm running the stock p13 now but when I put in my chipped p06, it throws a VTEC pressure switch code. This is not an issue with the p13 though.

Also, I'm throwing a tps code on the p13 because of the stupid nissan TB and tps that came on the motor from Japan. I have a skunk 2 TB that I'm installing on monday which I know will fix the tps.

Would the TPS code cause vtec not to engage? Could the Vtec pressure switch be bad? I'm really confused because the p13 is not throwing a vtec code and the p06 is not throwing a tps code when I plug that in.

To top it all off, when I use a blinker, power window, a/c, etc. my rpms go down. I've checked all the grounds and everything seems ok. Maybe I'm not seeing something. I don't know if any of these are related or not.

Summary (for those of you who just need it laid out plain )

1. vtec doesn't engage the first time I start it for the day (even after it's warmed up)

2. I'm throwing a tps (code 7) on my p13 (which is currently in the car) for my stupid nissan TB that came on the motor from Japan

3. I'm throwing a code 22 (vtec pressure switch) when I plug in my chipped p06

4. Whenever I use any accessories, my rpms go down.


Are these problems related?

 

I have no idea why VTEC wouldn't be working after the car is fully warmed up.

The other electrical stuff sounds like your alternator isn't charging like it should at idle, which happens with underdrive pulleys. Maybe it has something to do with the F22 crank pulley. (hopefully) The only other thing i can think of is that maybe your alternator is failing. At least you have another one.

 

WHADDYOUUUDOIN IN HERE?!

EDIT: nevermind, it's prob that guy in VA that you helped out

 

qua??

 

anybody have any more ideas of what to do here?

 

just get used to it.

 

That's extremely odd. If it was a wiring issue it would work, or it wouldn't work (vtec). You wouldn't be able to just start it up and voila, we've got vtec.

Personally I might consider gettign a new pressure switch, who the hell knows, that could be your problem.

 

Could it be the coolant temp sensor is not sending the right signal to tell the vtec selenoid telling it it's warm? But why would it work once I turn the key off and back on? I'm going to swap that TB and TPS on monday and I'm hoping that everything is magically fixed after that.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by exratedaccord93 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">But why would it work once I turn the key off and back on?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Normally I'd know what to tell you, but this is what is troubling me. When I first got my swap done it ran like a bag of ****, so I replaced the coolant temp sensor, IAC and pressure switch. Has worked like a dream ever since.

The only thing I can think of that makes any remote sense would be an oil pressure switch. Also double check your ECU pinuouts, you never know...

 

Ok heres the deal.

your getting code 22 for vtec pressure switch;

I used to have this code as well on my h22..

There are a number of things to check

make sure the wiring is correct;


VTEC Solenoid: Grn/Yel on Prelude harness &gt; Pin A4 on ECU // SENSOR LOCATION: Near distributor

Also remove the solenoid and check for any clogging in the filter

Check the ground off the solenoid

MOST IMPORTANT check the oil level of the engine

Secondly check the oil pressure at idle and 3500rpm

if your getting poor oil pressure it is almost certainly a damaged oil pickup located inside the pan.

thats all it could be

 

Everybody is aware of what the code is and what it means, but if you read carefully this is what will throw you off:

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by exratedaccord93 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well I almost get to work (about a 12 mile drive) and find that when I do get on it, vtec doesn't engage at all. After turning the car off all the way and turning it back on, vtec then works and pulls hard every time. Even after I start it for the rest of the day, it engages. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats the odd part. If you were getting bad oil pressure it would happen all the time, not just the first time you start it up.

 

i would have to come to the conclusion that this is a fucked up problem with no answer in sight ???!?!?!

good luck my man.. fakin odd

 

On OBD1 cars there are several sensors/codes that will cause the car to run in limp mode, which is what your car seems to be doing. Fix all your CEL's first. If that doesn't fix it then it may be in "warm up mode", which could be one of your ECT sensors. It's not your water temp sensor which is located under the distributor, and it's probably not your front ECT sensor because you used the water neck off of you f22....hmmm

well try replacing the rear ECT sensor with the one off of your F22 and if that doesn't work I'd try unplugging the front one. and seeing if that fixes your problem. BECAUSE ....JDM motor, JDM ecu.....the JDM motor didn't have that extra ECT.

 

unplugged the front ect sensor and vtec still doesn't work the first time I start it for the day. I still haven't swapped my TB and Intake Mani to get rid of the tps code. I'll have to wait to finish that before I try anything else.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by exratedaccord93 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">unplugged the front ect sensor and vtec still doesn't work the first time I start it for the day. I still haven't swapped my TB and Intake Mani to get rid of the tps code. I'll have to wait to finish that before I try anything else.</TD></TR></TABLE>

BTW I believe recalling you saying that you have a 70MM TB. I also have a 70MM Skunk2 TB with no issues, so I'm not sure if that would be your issue.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by khunt0012 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

BTW I believe recalling you saying that you have a 70MM TB. I also have a 70MM Skunk2 TB with no issues, so I'm not sure if that would be your issue.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have a skunk 2 TB but I haven't installed it yet. Right now I have a nissan skyline TB that's 95mm (JDM Bling). I'm hoping that the S2 TB fixes my problems.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by exratedaccord93 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I have a skunk 2 TB but I haven't installed it yet. Right now I have a nissan skyline TB that's 95mm (JDM Bling). I'm hoping that the S2 TB fixes my problems.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That seems overly large. Hopefully that fixes it for you.

 

Okay, I swith the rear ect sensor from my f22 today. I have to wait until tomorrow to see if it worked because it only does it when it hasn't been started all day. I'll let you guys know what happens. I still haven't installed my TB because I can't find the tps connector and probably can't get one until monday.