brand new motor break-in
another question from me. How long of a break-in period should i do for my car, i just COMPLETELY rebuilt a motor and put it in the car. new pistons, rings, bearings (main and rod), all new gaskets and seals, new everything almost, i had a valve job done and everything, even replaced all the main bearings for my transmission, and cleaned it all, thanks yall.
you wont be able to tune it very good on a dyno because you dont need to go over 4000 rpm, for the first 1000miles
you need to change the oil when you get it running good and get it fully warmed up, change the oil right then to get all the **** out from inside, assembly lube, metal particles, ect..
for the next 1000 miles you need to drive it on city streets, no highway, you need drive at varrying gears, not staying in one gear for long peroids of time, your first test drive, you need to get rolling start in 2nd, dont just flog it but get into it so it kinda bogs, run it all the way up to 4000 in 2nd and then engine brake it back down to rolling, do this a few times, then start driving it normal, engine brake as much as possible to put as much pressure on the rings
id probably also change my oil at 500 miles
you need to change the oil when you get it running good and get it fully warmed up, change the oil right then to get all the **** out from inside, assembly lube, metal particles, ect..
for the next 1000 miles you need to drive it on city streets, no highway, you need drive at varrying gears, not staying in one gear for long peroids of time, your first test drive, you need to get rolling start in 2nd, dont just flog it but get into it so it kinda bogs, run it all the way up to 4000 in 2nd and then engine brake it back down to rolling, do this a few times, then start driving it normal, engine brake as much as possible to put as much pressure on the rings
id probably also change my oil at 500 miles
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From: Land of the free, whoever told you that is your enemy
I'm in the same boat....new everything including clutch.....
Don't care how many people tell me to flog it right out of the box, that's NOT going to happen. Spent too much time and money on this thing to immediately go ape ****.
Post #3 sounds much more like my cup of tea.
Don't care how many people tell me to flog it right out of the box, that's NOT going to happen. Spent too much time and money on this thing to immediately go ape ****.
Post #3 sounds much more like my cup of tea.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRXBart »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://www.importbuilders.com/breakinarticle.htm</TD></TR></TABLE>
that site is very interesting. ive also came across this site...
http://mototuneusa.com
if ya scroll down to almost the bottom and click on the break in secrets link, its basically saying the exact opposite of what the above imporbuilders site said. there saying to not go more than 50% throttle, while the guy on mototune is saying get on the throttle hard. he also has other articles about how pnp a head makes less power than before you started, and actually making your ports smaller increases horsepower because of the higher velocity of air traveling into the combustion chamber. What do ya know.... both say they have worked in hundreds of engines and tuned them, and they work 100% perfectly using their techniques. Even though they are not even close to the same
I really dont know what to believe anymore. Ive read so many sites on all this ****, and they are all saying different ****, especailly on the new motor break ins. Im also kinda in the same situation as the other 2 people in this thread, about completely rebuilding a motor, putting $3,000 into it, and now its time to break it in and all that fun stuff...
bump for a confused kid
that site is very interesting. ive also came across this site...
http://mototuneusa.com
if ya scroll down to almost the bottom and click on the break in secrets link, its basically saying the exact opposite of what the above imporbuilders site said. there saying to not go more than 50% throttle, while the guy on mototune is saying get on the throttle hard. he also has other articles about how pnp a head makes less power than before you started, and actually making your ports smaller increases horsepower because of the higher velocity of air traveling into the combustion chamber. What do ya know.... both say they have worked in hundreds of engines and tuned them, and they work 100% perfectly using their techniques. Even though they are not even close to the same
I really dont know what to believe anymore. Ive read so many sites on all this ****, and they are all saying different ****, especailly on the new motor break ins. Im also kinda in the same situation as the other 2 people in this thread, about completely rebuilding a motor, putting $3,000 into it, and now its time to break it in and all that fun stuff...
bump for a confused kid
ive got a motor in my garage ive built, so ive been looking at break in stuff for a while
theres as many ideas on break as people have ********
i just know what my good friends do when they brake in motors, i have one good friend that has built 4-5 motors and never had a problem with brake in, except a set of shitty rings
he goes real eazy on it the first 1000 miles first starting out trying to stay uner 2500 if all possible, then 100-200 miles take it up but always stop at 4000rpm for the remainder of the 1000 mile break in
i know lots of people who just say, drop it in, start it up, and race the expletive out of it, but mostly i hear this from race engine builders, that only need engine's to last for a season, like maybe 30,000 miles if that
i built my motor i need it to last another 300,000 miles if possible
theres as many ideas on break as people have ********
i just know what my good friends do when they brake in motors, i have one good friend that has built 4-5 motors and never had a problem with brake in, except a set of shitty rings
he goes real eazy on it the first 1000 miles first starting out trying to stay uner 2500 if all possible, then 100-200 miles take it up but always stop at 4000rpm for the remainder of the 1000 mile break in
i know lots of people who just say, drop it in, start it up, and race the expletive out of it, but mostly i hear this from race engine builders, that only need engine's to last for a season, like maybe 30,000 miles if that
i built my motor i need it to last another 300,000 miles if possible
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i break my engines in rough....
1st of all run the cheapest oil you can find..
then turn it on the car,,keep the revs at around 3000 for about 20 minutes to break the cams in,,at this time keep and eye on the cluster make sure the oil light doesnt come on,,also check for leaks everywhere,,,,if everythings fine Then take it out put it in 3rd go to about 5000revs and ride it out,,then go to 4th gear and do the same,,,, then do some pulls on the highway...By then the rings are seated...
Now change the oil and run your favorite brand....And continue to beat the **** out the engine it wont blow up assuming you have built the engine correctly and have the proper ecu,and not pushing past its limits......Most people dont like my way though,,they rather take it easy....Whatever works for you
1st of all run the cheapest oil you can find..
then turn it on the car,,keep the revs at around 3000 for about 20 minutes to break the cams in,,at this time keep and eye on the cluster make sure the oil light doesnt come on,,also check for leaks everywhere,,,,if everythings fine Then take it out put it in 3rd go to about 5000revs and ride it out,,then go to 4th gear and do the same,,,, then do some pulls on the highway...By then the rings are seated...
Now change the oil and run your favorite brand....And continue to beat the **** out the engine it wont blow up assuming you have built the engine correctly and have the proper ecu,and not pushing past its limits......Most people dont like my way though,,they rather take it easy....Whatever works for you
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TrackSpeedRacing »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Here's why breaking in your motor on the dyno is recommended.
http://laskeyracing.com/shop/breakin.htm</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by earl »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> One of the most asked questions is how do I break in my new motor? The short answer is that no break-in is necessary. The only thing that is necessary is to seat the rings. All clearances and fitments should be perfect after blueprinting and precision assembly. So how many miles do you have to drive it to seat the rings? https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/878397</TD></TR></TABLE>
Modified by dr_latino999 at 8:59 AM 7/5/2006
http://laskeyracing.com/shop/breakin.htm</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by earl »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> One of the most asked questions is how do I break in my new motor? The short answer is that no break-in is necessary. The only thing that is necessary is to seat the rings. All clearances and fitments should be perfect after blueprinting and precision assembly. So how many miles do you have to drive it to seat the rings? https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/878397</TD></TR></TABLE>
Modified by dr_latino999 at 8:59 AM 7/5/2006
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