well guys I just trying to figure out why motor seems really hot...temp in my car reads fine and fan comes on but its like you cant touch anything in the engine bay for like and hour after the car sits cause its so damn hot and I am failing smog cause high NO...I have a 180 thermo in it and stock is 160 which I want to get again but I heard 180 will lower the NO...just confused on what to do cause paying 130 bucks for a new stock cat is kinda steap when i just bought a high flow cat that I regret cause I cant pass smog...any advice???

 

Go to Autozone, pick yourself up a cheap-o lifetime warranty cat. Use it when you get sniffed, switch back to the other one afterwards. Save the cat for next year. NO is usually something to do with the cat, or O2 sensors though, if I'm not mistaken. How badly is it failing? As long as your temp gauge reads norm temp, then the engine temp is fine, and your engine bay just retains heat. It's ok, though. Try exhaust rap if it really bothers you.

 

failed NO 1825 and max is 850 at 15 mph and passed at 25mph with 805 and max like 835

 

Sounds liek the car may also be running a little bit rich, but I could be wrong...if the car is passing at 25mph, then it doesn't seem like the cat would be the culprit...? Hope someone can shine more light than me.

 

you mean lean right??? lean I thought will make the internals hot???could be wrong but thought NO creating cause of to much heat on the internals and cat not being able to burn it off....

 

Well, NO is Nitrogenoxide I think...nitrogen comes from gas. So if it's got a high N count, my guess was that it's not burning off all the gas, and leaving too much nitrogen for the cat to burn off. I failed chemistry, though.

 

ya think we all failed chemistry atleast once...lol...but I see what your saying but should I advance it or retard it to even it out???

 

Well, do you have any type of on-board full management system? Or is it all automatic?

Second idea try...advancing it, I thin...but ONLY a little bit. TOO advanced causes the car to run hotter, while retarding causes it to ping (I think is the commonly used term). Advancing it will give it longer to burn off before opening the exhaust valves. Try and see. You can also check if it's running rich or too retarded by looking for smoke, or carbon buildup on your rear bumper by the exhaust.

 

its a manual...stock sohc zc (d16a6) but I did a seafoam on it and runs good now but I know it didnt help with NO being that high...I wish I could see if I am running rich or lean just dont know anyone around here with a wide band tester :-(

 

By automatic I meant is it computer controlled, or do you have a stand-alone fuel management system...if you do, you can control your rich/lean-ness with it.

I can't say I'm knowledgeable in the seafoam area...

 

ok automatic then no stand alone system on car...I just trying to get this thing running perfect so I can smog it and get it up to the mountains where I wont have too...I thinking running like 100 octane when I am taking it to smog...but I am holding up before I toss 100 bucks for a new cat...want to see why its running so hot inside and I know its not cat related but a stock cat would narrow that high NO down

 

Well, a higher octane WOULD burn cleaner...is your O2 sensor good?

 

ya just put a new one just for safe measures cause I had it under warranty went through 3 of them and finally my code one on ecu went off but that was after seafoaming it, it says o2 safe but I sure it killed it lol

 

http://www.smogsearch.com/index.php?page=faq

well I was reading this to get ideas but how could I tell if I am running rich or lean if it doesnt smoke out that back...wish I knew a friend around her with a wide band...

 

ECU throwing any codes NOW?

Read a little into that article...and you're right, it's running hot according to their symptoms. I got HC and NO mixed up, so that kinda throws out my rich theory. Are there any loose vacuum lines or anything? I'm about out of ideas to help you out man, I'm sorry I can't be of much help on this...I mean you could try the thermostat, but I wouldn't think it would make THAT big of a difference. If you were failing by just a short bit, I'd suggest it, but since you're failing by a LONG shot, I'm not sure...

 

its kool man thanks for your help...I just trying call all my friends and get a wideband...think I need to run more tich lol...someone said a FPR would fail smog???dont know if thats true but it would help me passing one way...

 

Define FPR for me? I'm still learning acronyms.

 

fuel pressure regulator...that many post I thought you knew what i meant

 

Haha, I know alot about Hondas, but I DEFINITLY don't know everything. I'm still learning some of the acronyms. Keep in mind your car's the one not passing the sniffer

Can someone get in here and help this kid out? I'm out of ideas...

 

someone said put 2 gallons of alcohol in my car with the 1/2 tank or so but I would think that would cause more bad than good on my oem parts....what you think???

 

Sorry, went downstairs to take pics of my car and parts to sell.

Umm...honestly, on that I wouldn't have any idea. It would probably run hotter, I would think...alcohol does burn faster...and hotter.

 

anyone else with ideas?

 

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yep! don't live in California! haha couldn't help it....man i have no idea, emissions is just gay tho, i heard cows produce more methane from there *** in a day than cars do.... Maybe thats why its a CATTLELYTIC converter, haha

 

ya they also say if you can bottle up there gas your car can actually run on it lol

 

NOx = high combustion temps.

the 180 thermo isnt helping, think.. its not openning to let coolant to the rad until its 180 instead of 160, so its 20 deg hotter.

ADVANCING timing = pinging, try retarding the timing a touch to cool it down..

use 87 octane. (d-series only).

let the car cool a little before the test.

make sure they are putting a fan on the front of the car too!! (they are supposed to, and it also helps cool down the car).