Blox b series mani problems...help asap
Im doing a build for my LS Integra and the blox manifold is locating my garret T3/TO4E turbo right up against the block. I know ive heard you can shave the block but it seems like a lot. If you flip the turbo around so the compressor is on the right side it rams it into the radiator.
If anyone has any suggestions or pics of their own setup i would much appreciate it.
If anyone has any suggestions or pics of their own setup i would much appreciate it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iGfrequency »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
--> Next, if needed, clock your turbo to fit your setup correctly. TO clock your turbo means to rotate the compressor/turbine houseings relative to the center housing. It's easy to do, you just need to loosen the bolts that hold the housings down tight, and rotate. Tighten back up when it's in the right spot.

--> You now going to want to hand tight bolt the turbo to the manifold so you can test fit on the block. In this case our turbo was hitting some of the web casting on the engine block. this is actually quite common on turbo Honda's. Dont worry, the web casting isnt too hard to remove and is not that important to the structure of the block. To cut the casting, use a dremel with a cut-off wheel attatchment.


After cutting the corner off with a dremel and a cut off wheel

--> If manifold now sits flush with head of engine, and turbo is clocked to fit your setup correctly.. It's time to tighten down the head studs to hold manifold securely. Tighten turbo-->manifold bolts as well.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1263795
place the mani and turbo on the car, with the center section bolts of the turbo loose. then you are able to rotate the housing in a position that it doesn't hit the block
--> Next, if needed, clock your turbo to fit your setup correctly. TO clock your turbo means to rotate the compressor/turbine houseings relative to the center housing. It's easy to do, you just need to loosen the bolts that hold the housings down tight, and rotate. Tighten back up when it's in the right spot.

--> You now going to want to hand tight bolt the turbo to the manifold so you can test fit on the block. In this case our turbo was hitting some of the web casting on the engine block. this is actually quite common on turbo Honda's. Dont worry, the web casting isnt too hard to remove and is not that important to the structure of the block. To cut the casting, use a dremel with a cut-off wheel attatchment.


After cutting the corner off with a dremel and a cut off wheel

--> If manifold now sits flush with head of engine, and turbo is clocked to fit your setup correctly.. It's time to tighten down the head studs to hold manifold securely. Tighten turbo-->manifold bolts as well.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1263795
place the mani and turbo on the car, with the center section bolts of the turbo loose. then you are able to rotate the housing in a position that it doesn't hit the block
^^^^that should be real helpful since thats not a blox mani. anyway we used to sell blox/drag, and devon at blox told us that a to4e compressor would not fit because you would have to cut out the block where it flares to meet the tranny. so we used to have to use t3's but im sure there was more details about the fitment. you should call devon at blox, and if you cant get him there, call the number for drag. he is super nice and will help you out. if you talk **** to him he might even give you a free t shirt. hows the waste gate fitting?
why wouldn't it be helpful?
its shows the overall process of clocking a turbo, and removing part of the webbing.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ForceFed_Motorsports »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If anyone has any suggestions or pics of their own setup i would much appreciate it.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
its shows the overall process of clocking a turbo, and removing part of the webbing.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ForceFed_Motorsports »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If anyone has any suggestions or pics of their own setup i would much appreciate it.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah im pretty much screwed... the blox mani is cast not tubular like the one shown. The flange for the turbo is set to the left not the center placing the housing way to close. More than could be shaved from the block as shown.
Wish those jackasses would have told me that before i bought it. I do remember asking if my turbo would work and i got the ok. I have no idea of what to do now. This is supposed to be finished by wednesday and now i have no mani.
Wish those jackasses would have told me that before i bought it. I do remember asking if my turbo would work and i got the ok. I have no idea of what to do now. This is supposed to be finished by wednesday and now i have no mani.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JSPECSIR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hows the waste gate fitting?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Wastegate bolts up but i havent closed my hood to see whether it will close or not... doesnt look like it so far.
Wow this keeps getting better...
Wastegate bolts up but i havent closed my hood to see whether it will close or not... doesnt look like it so far.
Wow this keeps getting better...
Trending Topics
you will most likely need an elbow for the gate. on my gsr the manifold put the gate into the valve cover so i needed the elbow. i also had to cut the webbing and shave more off by the engine code stamp. there were also little tabs above and under the exhaust ports that needed to be cut off. cheap manifold, but its a pain to get on there
Thanks im glad i find this out now... i guess i should have waited for my equal length. If its doable i guess i will try if you have a pic of yours id appreciate it. How much exactly am i looking at to shave off? I dont wanna get too crazy.
Thanks by the way... all i needed to know
Thanks by the way... all i needed to know
This is a lot easier to get through if you have a buddy helping you out. I would shave a little bit, then throw it on the studs and have my buddy hold it there. Then I would take a closer look at what needed to be shaved next. Just take you time and don't get discouraged, if will go on eventually.
My setup consistes of a Gsr engine, blox manifold and Precision SC34. I know the setups are different but with a little work is should fit. Good luck!

I know this pic doesn't help too much, but its all I have right now. It is also proof that it can be done haha.
My setup consistes of a Gsr engine, blox manifold and Precision SC34. I know the setups are different but with a little work is should fit. Good luck!

I know this pic doesn't help too much, but its all I have right now. It is also proof that it can be done haha.
Looks like im getting a different mani anyway... i wanna keep things nice and clean and dont really wanna have to hack up my engine block. Blox shouldnt be advertising that their manifold works with a t3/t4 turbo if it doesnt anyway. Plus if so many people have this problem why dont they state it and or modify the damn thing so it does actually work...
Not too impressed so far. Everyone elses log manifolds have the flange in the middle and not to the left, why didnt they catch on?
Not too impressed so far. Everyone elses log manifolds have the flange in the middle and not to the left, why didnt they catch on?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GS-R Civic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> 
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Where did you get that elbow for the wastegate... i might need one if i try and jimmy rig this thing up. Im gonna add a spacer between the head and mani flange to see if it pushes the turbo out a bit more.

</TD></TR></TABLE>
Where did you get that elbow for the wastegate... i might need one if i try and jimmy rig this thing up. Im gonna add a spacer between the head and mani flange to see if it pushes the turbo out a bit more.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by project dc2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you must have a 4 bolt ouetlet t3t4
those will not work with 95% of the cast manifolds out today </TD></TR></TABLE>
mine fits with shaving 5 bolt turbo
those will not work with 95% of the cast manifolds out today </TD></TR></TABLE>
mine fits with shaving 5 bolt turbo
Thanks, im going to use the mani i think but flip the turbo around. The only restriction that way is the turbo hitting the radiator but i just ordered a half core so we'll see how it goes. It should work plus ive already invested in this mani i might as well use it for now. Ill post pics later if anyone is interested.
I got a 3.5" Godspeed radiator so im pretty sure i should be keeping cool... I already have a slim fan and have removed my a/c so i got lots of room to play with now ha ha ha. Damn you blox. Anyway, things should work out and im stoked.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
ercfrmr
Classifieds: Forced Induction
2
Apr 6, 2011 06:42 AM





