Possible to modify FR Crossmember to work with SOHC?
Ok, I have the chance to get a FR Front Cross-Member for cheap, but here is the problem: It has no provision for a front engine mount and I was wondering, is it possible to weld in a bracket for the SOHC front mount on this crossmember, or am I looking for another option in running a full four mount engine in my bay?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thermal »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm assumng that you have an EF/CRX.....
.... I dont see why cant you..... Just make sure that you use a decent welder....</TD></TR></TABLE> Sorry, I forgot to mention that bit: It is an EF chassis. How much should I look to pay to have someone come up with a front mount for this since my fabrication and welding skills are in the land of negative values.
.... I dont see why cant you..... Just make sure that you use a decent welder....</TD></TR></TABLE> Sorry, I forgot to mention that bit: It is an EF chassis. How much should I look to pay to have someone come up with a front mount for this since my fabrication and welding skills are in the land of negative values.
I say put your cash into a custom rear mount and leave the front open. That EF setup curses quick removal of the swap.
If do keep the front mount, fabricate it so that the front bracket is removable...you'll be thankful later.
If do keep the front mount, fabricate it so that the front bracket is removable...you'll be thankful later.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RC000E »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I say put your cash into a custom rear mount and leave the front open. That EF setup curses quick removal of the swap.</TD></TR></TABLE> I already have a custom rear mount. The rear engine mount and the front engine mount are both JimFab units, but wouldn't I want to beef up the side mounts first since they'd be the one twisting with the torque (or lack there-of)?
I wish I had a picture of my car.
All you need to do is take a piece of tubing about 5 inches long and the same size diameter as the cross member and cut it in half length wise.
Then you would want to take two pices of like 1/8th in plate so that it will reach from your mount to crossmember.
You are going to want to either grind the pieces to make the same curve as your tubing or drill a hole with a hole saw the same size as your tubing and cut it in half so you have the same semi circle for both sides of the mount.
Drill a hole in the two pieces so your bolt will run through your mount.
Then just weld the two pieces one on each side of the mount onto the tubing.
to make it mountable you weld 4 nuts onto the tubing and run bolts to each side of the mount you made so it acts like a clamp.
This is hard to understand with out a picture I will try to draw up a picture. This is what I used on my jimfab.
All you need to do is take a piece of tubing about 5 inches long and the same size diameter as the cross member and cut it in half length wise.
Then you would want to take two pices of like 1/8th in plate so that it will reach from your mount to crossmember.
You are going to want to either grind the pieces to make the same curve as your tubing or drill a hole with a hole saw the same size as your tubing and cut it in half so you have the same semi circle for both sides of the mount.
Drill a hole in the two pieces so your bolt will run through your mount.
Then just weld the two pieces one on each side of the mount onto the tubing.
to make it mountable you weld 4 nuts onto the tubing and run bolts to each side of the mount you made so it acts like a clamp.
This is hard to understand with out a picture I will try to draw up a picture. This is what I used on my jimfab.
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I've been thinking about the need for a 4th mount lately. I come from a (old) v8 background, where they'd just use the two stock rubber mounts. In some cases they'd resort to a cable from the block to the chassis, but considering the torque differences from a v8 to an i4, 3 solid mounts should be adiquate.
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