I present you the following -


What would give this wear pattern to a rear tire on a FWD car


With a drop as non-existent as this....

~Scratchs head~
Could it be?

Yup, the RTA Bushing has gone straight to hell. Thanks to my good friends at http://www.Magauto.com I was able to procure two new ones - might as well get the other side while I'm at it - for 60$ shipped. Just incase you need too procure a set for yourself -
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">52385-S21-003 is the latest updated Honda part number for 88-00 civics (and DC2 integras which are same size as the EG but i dont think acura has a # for it) for the RTA bushing, from 2002 bulletin 00-006e. I just ordered 2 of them from magauto.com, they're about $25/ea.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Now should I go about burning the bushing, and cutting, and swearing...or should I be lazy about it?

Yup, I'm lazy....spend money for convience.

I should recieve all the parts by the end of the week and I'll be able to give you a lazy man's writeup. Stay tuned

 

now thats some tire wear. good luck and keep us posted.

 

subscribed for future write up

 

how much is that tool? its not that hard to burn and cut them out. take prob 15 mins per bushing.

 

^^U can always rent those tools ^^^

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by menappi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how much is that tool? its not that hard to burn and cut them out. take prob 15 mins per bushing. </TD></TR></TABLE> 169.99 with free shipping. But to burn and cut them out I have to remove the whole TA from the chassis, and I remember how much of a bitch that can be...no thank you.<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sit22 II &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">^^U can always rent those tools ^^^</TD></TR></TABLE> I could....but this way it will always be on hand and available to the HT local community.

 

i dont think a bad bushing will even cause that....

ur alignment is a ******* mile off..

camber doesnt do that either.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shortyz21 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i dont think a bad bushing will even cause that....

ur alignment is a ******* mile off..

camber doesnt do that either.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Now I wonder why my alignment is off...is it because the bushing that is supposed to anchor my trailing arm in place is now no longer actually restraining my trailing arm, and whenever it wants the wheel can track in or out dynamically changing the toe? Hmm...let's think about this.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by skylinedo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i go thru tires all the time; doesn't seem like your drive crazy. so i'm guessing its the toe in/out with some neg camber?</TD></TR></TABLE> Yup, trailing arm is out of wack on that side so the toe is in enough to be noticeable, and the camber is going well into negative land. I was meaning to get some new tires anyways...

 

Ive seen lots of rta bushings on civics deteriorate and none had a wear pattern like yours. I'd be interested to see what your alignment specs are before and after you change the TA bushing.

 

uhm ... i have that same problem .... bushing are worn out to shitz and i have that same wear pattern on my rear tires.... i could be the alignment since i havent done it but i wouldnt know until i get it and get new tires since i swapped out the drum for disc before the car was running.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Cory man &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ive seen lots of rta bushings on civics deteriorate and none had a wear pattern like yours. I'd be interested to see what your alignment specs are before and after you change the TA bushing. </TD></TR></TABLE> Well since I can't afford to put it up on the rack twice, what I can do for you is take simple measurements that can show the difference between the two sides of the chassis for the before - i.e. hub center to fender distance in reference to ride height and how far the trailing arm is actually changing the track of the car. And then I'll give you alignment specs and those same measurements for after, because I plan on keeping my next set of tires

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dr_latino999 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Well since I can't afford to put it up on the rack twice, what I can do for you is take simple measurements that can show the difference between the two sides of the chassis for the before - i.e. hub center to fender distance in reference to ride height and how far the trailing arm is actually changing the track of the car. And then I'll give you alignment specs and those same measurements for after, because I plan on keeping my next set of tires </TD></TR></TABLE>

My 91 Si hb has 260k on it and has been lowered since 99 w/ no rear camber correction and the wear pattern isnt nearly as bad as yours. The TA bushing is showing its age and will get replaced in the near future. I align the car several times a yr and rotate the tires when tread depths get uneven. I just tend to think that the pattern that you are getting wouldnt be nearly as aggressive if your car was aligned and tires were rotated regularly. My .02.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Cory man &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My 91 Si hb has 260k on it and has been lowered since 99 w/ no rear camber correction and the wear pattern isnt nearly as bad as yours. The TA bushing is showing its age and will get replaced in the near future. I align the car several times a yr and rotate the tires when tread depths get uneven. I just tend to think that the pattern that you are getting wouldnt be nearly as aggressive if your car was aligned and tires were rotated regularly. My .02. </TD></TR></TABLE> Well, the car had an alignment last June which was valid for about 6 weeks before the car was garaged for 10 months because of a blown engine and lack of funds. Those tires were relatively minty (you can still see the green lines on the other tires) when I finally got it up and running in May and that tire is the result of driving a couple thousand miles with that bushing D.O.A.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dr_latino999 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I present you the following -


What would give this wear pattern to a rear tire on a FWD car
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sweet slicks man!

 

Check some polyurethane bushings. Not expensive, and even if it doesn't fix the problem, it's not a bad upgrade. Burn them out. Have a little bon fire, drop the bushing with it's metal ring in the fire for a bit. It'll literally fall out CLEANLY. As for getting the bushing back IN the ring, get some axle grease and have some fun with a bench press. It SUCKS.

Oh, and to get that ring out of the trailing arm, get a hammer. It will slide out one way, but ONLY one way. Mark this...it has to go in that same side. Also, you'll have to re-use that bar, so mark which way it goes in.

Good luck.

 

Wait a minute...how's your wheel bearing? and check to make sure the brake isn't maybe locking up or holding tension.

Keep us posted.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nappyroots827 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sweet slicks man!</TD></TR></TABLE>

ya nice cheater slicks

 

bump cuz i need to do this... keep us posted.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JokerTypeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Check some polyurethane bushings.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not recommended on EF's for the RTA.

Please take mucho pics when you get this. I would love to see how these replacement bushings look. The only place I would buy them from is Honda, but if these are just as nice then it would be worth it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 88 rex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Please take mucho pics when you get this. I would love to see how these replacement bushings look. The only place I would buy them from is Honda, but if these are just as nice then it would be worth it. </TD></TR></TABLE> Roger will-co Magauto is an OEM parts depot so it should look the same. The great thing these days that from discussion of people who have handled both THE NEW OEM bushings have the same consistency to the Mugen's that King Motorsports feel.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JokerTypeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Check some polyurethane bushings. Not expensive, and even if it doesn't fix the problem, it's not a bad upgrade. Burn them out. Have a little bon fire, drop the bushing with it's metal ring in the fire for a bit. It'll literally fall out CLEANLY. As for getting the bushing back IN the ring, get some axle grease and have some fun with a bench press. It SUCKS.

Oh, and to get that ring out of the trailing arm, get a hammer. It will slide out one way, but ONLY one way. Mark this...it has to go in that same side. Also, you'll have to re-use that bar, so mark which way it goes in.

Good luck.</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dr_latino999 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Now should I go about burning the bushing, and cutting, and swearing...or should I be lazy about it?

Yup, I'm lazy....spend money for convience.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dr_latino999 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Roger will-co Magauto is an OEM parts depot so it should look the same. The great thing these days that from discussion of people who have handled both THE NEW OEM bushings have the same consistency to the Mugen's that King Motorsports feel. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I've heard the same about the Mugen bushings. It appears as though Honda upgraded their bushings after the service bulletin and are now pretty much identical to Mugen bushing.

 

I believe Northern Tools has a 12-ton hydraulic press that'll work better than that(and costs about $100 IIRC)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by K2e2vin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I believe Northern Tools has a 12-ton hydraulic press that'll work better than that(and costs about $100 IIRC)

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Shop presses are no doubt awesome to have and play with, BUT the tool pictured above allows you to keep the trailing arm on the car. I think with that tool you only need to remove something like 3 bolts.