So, i've been doing my swap for a week now. Today i got it running. But first, heres my setup.

B18C4 Engine
Y/S80 Transmission
OBD-1 JDM P72 (Crome 269map)
Orginal D16 harness, plus rywire ecu jumper + vtec subharness

So i got the car running today.

1. The check engine light stays on. It doesent turn off. I tried to look codes. The rywire harness has two extra wires coming off from the subharness. They are service check connector (Blue, D4) and MAP ground (Orange, D21) or something? So werent able to read my codes. I grounded the service check connector, and nothing happened. The light stays on. It otherwisely runs very good. First 10 seconds of running were horrible, it shooted into exhaust and ignition was off. Now its pretty good, excluding the solid light and 3000rpm idle.

2. My car idles in 2800-3000rpm, and when i turn my ignition on. The EACV makes this buzzing sound.

I havent ran the car for over 10 seconds, because i'm scared about the CEL light. What should i do, can you guys help me?

THanks
Ville

 

went there again. I ran it for few minutes. Its in limp home mode, it wont let me pass 3500rpm. Maybe thatswhy i cant read the codes?

We tested the chip at USA, and it was fine. No CELS or anything.

I soldered and heatshinked the wires at my loom. How i can find the problem now if the ECU wont tell the codes for me?

MAP; i extended my wires from firewall to the throttlebody (solder+heatshrink)
TPS; fine with the old D16 loom plug
EACV fine with the old D16 loom plug
IAT; extended the wires from D16 loom

What could cause this?

I have only bridged VTP and VTS inside the ECU after the USA. I had to solve the VTP code. Since my engine doesent have this...

Help!

 

Limp mode = code 0 = solid cel.

Did you install the chip in the ecu backwards, dead ecu? Try cutting the j1 jumper and running the ecu stock.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SVOboy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Limp mode = code 0 = solid cel.

Did you install the chip in the ecu backwards, dead ecu? Try cutting the j1 jumper and running the ecu stock.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Okay, so limp home mode is solid cel (0).

After USA i've only taken the chip out few times. But the ECU was tested good in the USA, no cels and solid cels. Maybe its backwards? What is a J1 jumper? Its a JDM OBD-1 P72 "small box".

 

Hmm, the j1 jumper changes the ecu to run from the chip and not stock maps, if you cut it, it becomes stock. I'm not too familiar with the jdm ecus though. First thing I would do is find a ecu that is known good to borrow and see what happens, if it still doesn't work it's likely a wiring issue.

 

The chip wasnt backwards. I just checked.

I cant just borrow a OBD-1 P72 in Finland. Nobody has one. I'm all alone with this.

What i should do now? Still a solid cel.

 

Well, that makes sense, I didn't know if you had honda buddies or anything, I know one guy in sweden that's in a similar position.

Anyway, can you post a picture of the inside of the ecu, especially around the chip? I'll try to see if the jumper stuff is the same so you could cut it and run it as a stock p72.

 

Actually, look at the pictures on this page: http://www.pgmfi.org/twiki/bin...lCase

To return it to stock you need to unbridge that J1 jumper, at which point it will be a stock p72, which if you assume it works and you still get a solid cel it's prolly wiring related.

 

How can the wiring be wrong so badly, that it goes into Limp home mode?

 

If you touch the blue and orange wire it will allow you to read codes. Give it a shot and watch your CEL blink. The service plug will not wok.

I also ran those two wires to the dash and installed a switch. If I ever get a CEL i just flip a switch and check hte codes.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Twilight &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I have only bridged VTP and VTS inside the ECU after the USA. I had to solve the VTP code. Since my engine doesent have this...

Help!</TD></TR></TABLE>

You didn't have to do that inside the ECU. I just spliced my wires together. I actually used connecters to connect them and if I ever decide to add a solenoid with a pressure sensor then I can just move the plugs to the appropriate wires.

 

Thanks for the help. But it does not allow me to read codes. Its on limp mode. I tried to connect them together, but nothing happens.

So what kinda thing can be wrong at wiring, so the car puts itself into limp mode? I heard something about reversing plugs on MAP and TPS? <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 88 rex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You didn't have to do that inside the ECU. I just spliced my wires together. I actually used connecters to connect them and if I ever decide to add a solenoid with a pressure sensor then I can just move the plugs to the appropriate wires. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I did that because i didint want to splice any wires and mess around with them, i dont have so good tools here that i could make propriate connector or something.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Twilight &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks for the help. But it does not allow me to read codes. Its on limp mode. I tried to connect them together, but nothing happens.

So what kinda thing can be wrong at wiring, so the car puts itself into limp mode? I heard something about reversing plugs on MAP and TPS?

I did that because i didint want to splice any wires and mess around with them, i dont have so good tools here that i could make propriate connector or something.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Map and TPS plugs are similar looking. If you don't know what you are looking at then it's possible to mixe them up.

Have you tried pulling the fuse and resetting the ECU? I don't see why being in limp mode would prevent you from reading codes.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 88 rex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


Map and TPS plugs are similar looking. If you don't know what you are looking at then it's possible to mixe them up.

Have you tried pulling the fuse and resetting the ECU? I don't see why being in limp mode would prevent you from reading codes.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah. They are similiar plugs, but my MAP used to be in D16 at firewall. I extended those wires. And for TPS, it was fine from the D16's harness.

It wont let me read the codes, its weird. And yeah, i have resetted the ECU.

Someone told me that OBD-0 has diffrent layout in TPS/MAP sensor? That the wires would'nt go into correct pins in the sensor?

 

When I made my obd0 to obd1 conversion harness I had a solid cel, I totally redid it by cutting the stock wiring. I checked all the wiring as I did it and I was only off one wire, it was an important wire though,

My service plug works for checking codes, but I have a 91, they have the newer style plugs.

 

Okay. Today i went into the garage once again

First i looked thru every wires, and did some eletrical measuring from ECU harness. The wires looked that they all are in correct positions.

Then i started to suspect the ECU, i took the chip out few times. Did this and that. And after 30mins, i decided to open the J1 bridge. That it would run stock JDM P72. And then i turned key into ignition position. And the CEL turned off. I was like yeaaahhh.

Then i started the engine, and first it fast idled few minutes. And dropped into correct 800 -+50rpm. It runs nicely, heats up, doesent leak and seems that everything would be alright with the stock program. Two codes.

CODES; One long-second pause-one long (20?;ELD)
eight fast pulses ???

No other codes, i must say 8000rpm sounds and feels quite nice.

So the problem circle has become smaller, and now i suspect bad\faulty chip. I need a new one.

What do you think?

 

Bad chip, bad program or a bad burn. Glad you got it started.

 

ELD is a pain, which i guess was part of the reason for the chipped ecu. I don't think edm engines had eld, I did a chipped ecu for an h22 and the guy also had the eld code. Is it two seperete codes 8 and 20? or 28? 8 is a dizzy code, I think. I'd be happy to burn you another chip.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vegaskurt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Bad chip, bad program or a bad burn. Glad you got it started.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SVOboy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ELD is a pain, which i guess was part of the reason for the chipped ecu. I don't think edm engines had eld, I did a chipped ecu for an h22 and the guy also had the eld code. Is it two seperete codes 8 and 20? or 28? 8 is a dizzy code, I think. I'd be happy to burn you another chip.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks guys, yeah. I'm exited to get it started. Too bad i have wrong driveshaft on left side (i ordered 3 VT ones, but only 2 VT's came. One is from std 16v)

Yeah, ELD was one of the reasons i went to chip. ELD, knock, injector test circuit, speed limiter, etc. All those pains.

Two long flashes, then a four second pause and eight fast blinks. i think its 20 and 8. Right? I looked that eight would be a crank angle sensor code? I used a rywire obd-0 to obd-2a distributor adapter. Hmm.

Thanks for the help mate! But i think i have to get the chip from Europe, since i'm in a bit of a hurry on this one. I'm going into Army next monday. :S

But atleast i got it running, and does not give too much codes. I think my swap went pretty well after all. First engine swap.

I just have to get another 269ROM map somewhere with minor tuning. Or even few diffrent ones. Btw guys, do you know what driveshaft # from NAPA would be correct for my setup. I would need a VT lenght (463.6mm to 468.6mm) from Acura Integra Xsi? Whats the B16A1 DA Acura integra? Xsi or something? I would need a left side full driveshaft.

 

Sounds like 20 and 8 then. Crank angle sensor might be a bad distributor, , but it's not like you can borrow one to test it,

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SVOboy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sounds like 20 and 8 then. Crank angle sensor might be a bad distributor, , but it's not like you can borrow one to test it,

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Its definatley a 20 and 8. The 8 can be wiring related, i have to check.

But do you guys know what model of DA Integra got the B16A engine? Xsi? I need to find a correct driveshaft for me.

 

OK, first off... I told you when I made your harness you would get a code 20 for the eld. (he wanted his ecu jumper plug and play for a crx vtec model) The crx vtec has a vtec oil pressure in the eld (usdm) location. I TOLD you you would get this code with a stock USDM ecu.

As for a code for the distributor.... the jumper is just fine. It bothers me when people get online and talk like my product is bad when we all know the problem is the "mechanic" Possibly next time you should contact me with questions.

 

I know i get 20 code for ELD, its not anybodys fault. Thatswhy i wanted to chip my ECU, but unfortunatley my Chip was faulty and didint work. So now i cant disable it, cuz i'm running stock JDM P72. Thats fine, i'll get a new chip. And my car isint EE8 EDM VT, its Dohc ZC model ED9 EDM 16v.

droppedcrxsi, where did i accused you that your product is bad? I think its great, and its very helpful with my swap. I never said that its bad or something. Makes the swap so easy, and almost OEM quality. I love the VTEC subharness. I've always said ONLY good things about your products. So no worries, huh?

For code 8, i thought that the crank angle sensor plug would have bad contacts or something like that. And thatswhy it gives the code 8. I havent check that yet. So NOW i'm asking you, what i should do to the code 8?

 

ya i didnt see anything bad said here about rywire? ???

all he said was he was going to check the wiring..

anyways.

if the dist wiring is for a obd2a dizzy then a Civic w/ 96+ might be a good place to start for a test (the b16a dist).

 

Sorry, it just sounded like you were angry about the code 20, im glad you understand. code 8, hmmmm tdc. Im willing to bet its a bad dizzy. Do you have means to test it? Thats always the best idea. Lemme know, and we will get it all running correct, and dialed in.
Ryan