I'm looking for a device that allows you to redistribute the braking force of your front and rear brakes, so the rears don't lock up. I have heard that Wildwood makes one, how does this compare against others, or is there a better one?

 

http://store.summitracing.com/...XID=5

 

no matter which adjustable valve you use, youre going to have to replumb the whole brakeline system.

 

Why is this Tyson? First time I heard this..

 

FTW!!!!

 

adjustable valves have 1 inlet and outlet. the stock prop valve is divided in diagonals and have individual outlets, not a combined front/rear.

trust me, youd have to replumb everything hardlined.

its only for race cars that have been stripped and rebuilt.


Modified by Tyson at 8:36 AM 7/1/2006

 

Tyson is fairly right about re-plumbing but I don't think it would be all that bad.

There are two ways it can be done. In both cases you would by-pass the original proportioning valve.

One is to install an adjustable proportioning valve in the line that goes to the rear. That's where that Wilwood valve comes in. What it does is allow you to "dial-down" the pressure that goes to the rear.

The way it's done on a race car is to run two separate brake master cylinders and then have a balance bar between them. One cylinder is for the front and the other is for the rear. By adjusting the balance bar, you can control how much pressure (or pushing force) the brake pedal applies. (forget about having a booster without getting very creative!!)

<U>You would be a lot better off finding a factory proportioning valve that fits the configuration of your car!!!!!!</U>
Wes V

 

Thanks Wes, Wildwood seems to be the way to go.

I have an EF with a GSR rear disc brake conversion, if I get on the brake pedal hard enough, the rears will lock up. Already smashed into someone who cut me off at high speed, just slid for a long way with no significant braking effect. I have to do something about this.

Is this a fairly simple mod I can do myself? Or can things go wrong?

 

It's not an obligation to re-plumb everything


On our race car we just installed a T to combine the 2 rear brakes lines, Going into the Ajustable PV, go Out, installed another T to split the lines to the wheel

works perfectly a Mont-Tremblant circuit, finisshed 8th in Touring Hankook

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Garrett &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's not an obligation to re-plumb everything


On our race car we just installed a T to combine the 2 rear brakes lines, Going into the Ajustable PV, go Out, installed another T to split the lines to the wheel

works perfectly a Mont-Tremblant circuit, finisshed 8th in Touring Hankook </TD></TR></TABLE>

So you combined the 2 lines after the stock prop valve? I've heard quite a few times that that's a really bad idea. I've been reading up on prop valves recently (hence reviving a dead thread) and I'm wondering the the CRX valve(4040 in my case) actually does anything but split the lines for the front.

If that's all it does, it would seem like eliminating it altogether would be a better idea, replacing it with a T junction for the front lines and an adjuster/T-line for the rears. It wouldn't be the prettiest thing in the world, but you might be able to pull that off without much modification to the lines.



Modified by Deo at 2:36 PM 8/4/2006

 

please dont say 40/40. its like saying you have vtech.

its 4040.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">please dont say 40/40. its like saying you have vtech.

its 4040.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Noted and fixed. I'm guessing my assumptions were right if you didn't correct me.

 

i honestly dont know how the 4040 works. ive opened up a prop valve. its rather interesting in there. lots of little springs and bypass channels. it has its own safety pressure relief that will release rear brake pressure after prolonged pressure buildup on its own, to prevent extended rear lock up.

if replumbing the lines after the prop valve worked for garret, great. its not quite what ppl i know who have bothered to install an adjustable brake valve did.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Deo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

So you combined the 2 lines after the stock prop valve? I've heard quite a few times that that's a really bad idea. I've been reading up on prop valves recently (hence reviving a dead thread) and I'm wondering the the CRX valve(4040 in my case) actually does anything but split the lines for the front.

If that's all it does, it would seem like eliminating it altogether would be a better idea, replacing it with a T junction for the front lines and an adjuster/T-line for the rears. It wouldn't be the prettiest thing in the world, but you might be able to pull that off without much modification to the lines.

Modified by Deo at 2:36 PM 8/4/2006</TD></TR></TABLE>

The different number proportioning valves have different size orifices to adjust the volume and/or pressure that the brakes receive front to back.

It's there for safety, thus the criss-cross plumbing method that the Honda engineers used, track use would be perfectly fine to replumb as you wish especially with an adjustable brake bias valve, but for the street why, for safety's sake? You will never need it trust me, unless you wanna swap ends in cow pastures like Kurt did when he didn't change out the prop valve after putting in rear disks in his 89 Si, sigh twas a beautiful straight car before he began, too.
Later,
Caleb