Update: IT RUNS BUT LOTS OF PROBLEMS: go to pg 2 plz----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

This is going to be my thread on changing the headgasket on my 92 prelude SR 4ws. I finished fixing up the outside and added my fav. lip of all times. I will be updating this from time to time and will be posting ALL my problems that I might have, so keep checking this thread.

Wish me good luck!!

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

DAY 1

So I started taking apart the top of the engine today, right now I'm taking a break. Here are some pics, which I will include a write-up later on.






Teaser!!!!



PROBLEM 1= All solved
----------------------------------------------------
1) How do you get the adjusting screw and bolt off on the P/S pump?
2) Dam bottom bolt on the heatsheild, I need to get a 12mm combination wrench
3) Holy crap theres a lot of "stuff" plugged onto the intake.
------------------------------------------------------------

Any suggestions and tips welcomed.
:fingersx:

Problem 2: Dam bolts
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
1) How do you reach for the lower bolts of the IM, I can't get my rachet to fit between the runners.

2) The lower exhuast bolts, the ones that holds the header to the down pipe. What do you guys use to get it out? Impact gun I guess.

3) Do you have to lossen the adjusting nuts for the valve in order to pull the head? Can't you take out the cam gears by taking out the nuts holding it in?


Modified by chu77 at 4:49 PM 7/1/2006


Modified by chu77 at 12:09 PM 7/15/2006

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chu77 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Problem 2: Dam bolts
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
1) How do you reach for the lower bolts of the IM, I can't get my rachet to fit between the runners.

2) The lower exhuast bolts, the ones that holds the header to the down pipe. What do you guys use to get it out? Impact gun I guess.

3) Do you have to lossen the adjusting nuts for the valve in order to pull the head? Can't you take out the cam gears by taking out the nuts holding it in?</TD></TR></TABLE>

1) 12mm combo wrench

2) use some wd40 or some type of lubricant... but do not use KY.

3) you need to remove the timing belt off the cam gears then remove the cams to get to the head bolts.

 

Please please purchase a helms manual

 

Sounds like you might be in for more than you bargained for.

If I were you, I would have left the intake together with the head and
then seperated them after you got them out of the car.

You're gonna have to remove the timing belt, cam caps, etc. and remove
the cams in order to have access to the head bolts.

Make sure when you have everything out you clean the holes out where the
head bolts go and use NEW head bolts.

The last thing you want to do is strip the threading in the block.

You're gonna need a feeler guage too when you get it all back together.

Like stated before, get a helms bro, especially if you've never done it before.

 

i would sugest geting arp headstuds...
they are like10-20$ more and you can reuse them

 

I got one of those on-line manuals....I think it's Helms but not sure. But it told me to remove the IM and I'm like "ok...."

I'll take more pics!!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Honda318dx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Please please purchase a helms manual </TD></TR></TABLE>

Please, please........please. Some of the questions you're asking are scaring me.

A $60 Helms will save you $6000 on shop bills.

 

also, IM doesnt need to be removed to pull the head. Just unplug all hoses,sensors then continue with the removal.

 

Honda head bolts CAN be reused as well. It is not neccesarry to replace them.(in most cases)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SKDRCR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Make sure when you have everything out you clean the holes out where the
head bolts go and use NEW head bolts.

The last thing you want to do is strip the threading in the block.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cb7-R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Honda head bolts CAN be reused as well. It is not neccesarry to replace them.(in most cases)</TD></TR></TABLE>

When would you say it is necessary?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by A Blue Lude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

When would you say it is necessary?</TD></TR></TABLE>

If there were any type of visible damage or they were extremely old, in which case they would be more subject to stress fatigue.

 

I've heard that head bolts stretch a little bit over time. As long as it is taken apart you may as well replace them. You may never have the head off of the engine again, until the head bolts you reused break, that is.

 

Sorry guys, this is the 1st time I've worked on an engine so bear with me. Seeing that I could not find a diy on the headggasket I'll make one myself. And yes, head studs can be reused if cleaned and installed carefully.

I'm going to just pull the head with the IM on then, stupid manual.

 

I would also recomend you replace them with either OEM or ARP since it is apart.

 

Day 2

Question by the end of the day: How do you remove the Exhaust M after removing the bolts?
-------------------------------------------
1) Removed Cams pulley, gear and caps
2) Will be replacing T-belt becuase I dropped the "key" from the cam pulley inside that area. lol
3)All exhuast bolts out be one. ( That one is so rusted and stripped, I'm going to drill it out and replace it with another bolt and nut.)
4) I took a picture of my "Honda aftermarket" wheels. Rare?

 

Dont get the cam caps mixed up.


Pull the header off from the cat first, unbolt from the head and pull it off.

Cat bolts will be rested and damn near welded on. Liquid wrench or WD40 is your friend. You will most likely sheer them and need to redrill and put some new bolts in or get a new cat. You may get lucky and they will come off with some work.

 

you really need to keep your stuff organized when doing something like this. just as 98TypeSH said, keep your cam caps in order (it looks as though you've thrown them on the floor). i have a head thats taken apart and my cam caps are all in order inside my tool box.

i also dont know why you removed the cam gears.

and the wheels are ugly lol

 

HELP: What tools do you use to take off the headbolts? I don't want to strip the head so just wanted to make sure. (Sockets right?)

The cam gears were in the way and the manual said to take it off.......Also all cam caps are organized, thanks for the heads up.

 

[QUOTE=chu77]HELP: What tools do you use to take off the headbolts? I don't want to strip the head so just wanted to make sure. (Sockets right?)
QUOTE]

im pretty sure i used a 6 point 14mm socket, also, you may want to think about upgrading to arp headstuds, theyre only like $30 more than the honda headbolts which you should replace anyways and not reuse

 

K......I'm using the 14mm socket, and extended the racket 10" longer so I can get more power with more leveage. But I still can't lossen the 1st head-bolt. How much power do you need to used? Should I give it all I got?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chu77 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">K......I'm using the 14mm socket, and extended the racket 10" longer so I can get more power with more leveage. But I still can't lossen the 1st head-bolt. How much power do you need to used? Should I give it all I got?</TD></TR></TABLE>

it'll take a lot, you'll want to loosen them in 3 stages, i believe theyre torqued to around 80lbs so itll take around that much and prolly more to break them loose, make sure youre loosening them in the correct order

 

As already stated, take them out in 3 stages in the proper sequence. or better yet, follow the helms manual. 80ft lbs is a crapload of torque to bust lose. Put a cheater bar on the end of the wrench if needed, just dont loosen it all the way.

 

Day 4
Bought a breaker bar and a deep socket. Got #1-7 bolts loosen but striping on bolt #8. Went out to get some JB-weld it and will continue trhe battle tommrow.

 

The only possible way i see you stripping a bolt of that hardness is the following:

1. Using shitty auto zone sockets that have a crapload of play when on the bolt.
2. you are using a 12pt socket on 6pt bolts

Im willing to bet #1.

Get a snapon 14mm socket if this is the case. You have never seen a socket fit a bolt so well. I got one for my crank pulley bolt and lug nuts.

 

1/2" tools make a LOT easier also.