Spring rates for a track R
This car will be a track only car so street ride is not even a consideration..
Suspension as follows:
Skunk 2 upper fronts
98 spec front sway bar
23mm rear bar
upper rear camber adjusters
Koni full adjustable all the way around
GC coil overs that have 400-500 right now.
What springs rates should i be running on this light car?
Suspension as follows:
Skunk 2 upper fronts
98 spec front sway bar
23mm rear bar
upper rear camber adjusters
Koni full adjustable all the way around
GC coil overs that have 400-500 right now.
What springs rates should i be running on this light car?
Depending on driving style:
My H2 ITR has
800lb for front
950lb for rear
"JDM" 24mm rear bar
camber adjustement all around.
I think that if I stayed in the racing scene, I would eventually worked my way up to 1100lb rear springs for more rotation and possibly a bigger, but not huge rear roll bar.
My H2 ITR has
800lb for front
950lb for rear
"JDM" 24mm rear bar
camber adjustement all around.
I think that if I stayed in the racing scene, I would eventually worked my way up to 1100lb rear springs for more rotation and possibly a bigger, but not huge rear roll bar.
this might help:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1011106
i have 700/1100 on my gsr, mugen 26mm rear, disconected front
my car came with 800/1400 when i bought it, but the tracks here are too bumpy for that
-nigel.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1011106
i have 700/1100 on my gsr, mugen 26mm rear, disconected front
my car came with 800/1400 when i bought it, but the tracks here are too bumpy for that
-nigel.
Get the revalved yellows, with the shortened front shock body. The car wont feel good until you start getting your rates over 800#, I've run anywhere from 800 to 1100# on the car.
I know David's is a H2 car, so somewhere around 2500lbs. FWIW, I'm running 850/1000lb springs on my 2200lb hatch
That's with a stock ITR rear bar and a GSR front bar, nice rotation, very little nosedive in braking zones, feels good overall.
That's with a stock ITR rear bar and a GSR front bar, nice rotation, very little nosedive in braking zones, feels good overall.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rene M »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Holy chit, those are some spring rates.. How heavy are your cars to run such high rates? </TD></TR></TABLE>
mine is 2600lbs min weight incl. driver
-nigel.
mine is 2600lbs min weight incl. driver
-nigel.
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I'm under 2500 lb w/ driver (2480 min weight). I could get it down under 2400 w/ driver if the min weight allowed it, but I wouldnt change the spring rates one bit.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm under 2500 lb w/ driver (2480 min weight). I could get it down under 2400 w/ driver if the min weight allowed it, but I wouldnt change the spring rates one bit.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Damn, i guess i need some new springs..
I thought i was at a good starting point.
Any one looking for some street rates...lol
Damn, i guess i need some new springs..
I thought i was at a good starting point.
Any one looking for some street rates...lol
Rene, those rates are in the upper verge of streetability. It was a compromise between lots of track use and even more street and highway use. For a type R that gets at least 15,000 street miles, majority of them highway, and at least 5 different track events throughout a given year. I wouldnt get anything higher for that sort of driving. And thats on relatively good roads. It was flatter, rotated better and could corner faster than stock and thats what it was intended to do. Obviously they're not real race rates, but anyone driving any of these rates on the street obviously has a couple of screws loose.
Make sure you chose a spring rate that is within the capabilities of the shock. If you have Koni Yellows I think anything above 600lbs. is asking for trouble if I remember correctly.
Barry H.
Barry H.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by apexinghonda »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Make sure you chose a spring rate that is within the capabilities of the shock. If you have Koni Yellows I think anything above 600lbs. is asking for trouble if I remember correctly.
Barry H. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Unless they are the revalved (SPSS3) yellows....
While 1000 lb springs arent exactly comfortable on the street, and will likely elicit lots of discomfort and complaints from any passenger you take with you in the car, its certainly tolerable with the revalved yellows. I wouldnt daily drive it, but I had no problems driving it to the track like that.
Barry H. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Unless they are the revalved (SPSS3) yellows....
While 1000 lb springs arent exactly comfortable on the street, and will likely elicit lots of discomfort and complaints from any passenger you take with you in the car, its certainly tolerable with the revalved yellows. I wouldnt daily drive it, but I had no problems driving it to the track like that.
IM'd...
12kfront/14k rear + 26mm mugen rear bar & mugen front strut bar. JIC magic is the brand of shock/spring combo that I've been using for 2 years.
12kfront/14k rear + 26mm mugen rear bar & mugen front strut bar. JIC magic is the brand of shock/spring combo that I've been using for 2 years.
To be honest i was just looking to see what all every one was running and was quite supprised.. Your Koni's would have to be revalved to run those rates and the car is just going together so i have time..
12k/10k kgs for me for now.. don't feel too bad Rene.. 
I do plan to go higher as soon as financially feasable though..
and I feel like I'm one of the few on a front heavy setup these days..

I do plan to go higher as soon as financially feasable though..
and I feel like I'm one of the few on a front heavy setup these days..
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