like the title say im deciding if i should get the aebs picked up for 90 or arp 93 shipped it will take a week to get here

lmk guys thanks

 

I think either is a good choice.

 

anyone else have a comment on this rally need this answer asap

 

 

Used Both....THey both work fine

 

anyone else have suggestion??

 

Never any problems with the ARP's.

 

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hotimportcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Used Both....THey both work fine</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

arp

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pitbullracer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">arp </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

ive used both, no probs with either

 

I chose AEBS because of their design. They do not have a dimpled end like the ARP's do which will allow for better and more accurate readings when stretching and the force distributed among all the threads is more even.

There was a thread on here about this very topic.... I will try to find it.

It was also recommended to my by a couple of performance engine builders. So that is what I went with.

 

I believe the aebs advertises theirs are even a little stronger / thicker though I'm not sure. I think both serve their purpose well, meaning just from what I've seen and read I haven't heard of either brand failing. arp def. more popular

 

i heard stock are good to 1000hp or 60lbs of boost

 

ARP is the better choice.

 

i like arp ive had mine for 4years and 2 headgasket chages

 

Some doods got it backwards,

AEBS are a little thicker and are dimpled in the end to distribute the torqe more evenly throughout the threads. They even make 1/2 inch studs for the big HP ballers.

I think both will work just fine though!!

 

I've heard both are great too. When I researched the 2 a little while ago, I thought I read somewhere that AEBS dont have to be re-torqued later on and the ARP's need to be re-torqued. I chose AEBS, but havnt assembled the build yet.

 

Not trying to jack the thread, but where can you get that price from? Thanks

 

why do you need to retorque the head studs? I never done that, I only torque one time, and its ARP all the way.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rudebwoy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why do you need to retorque the head studs? I never done that, I only torque one time, and its ARP all the way.</TD></TR></TABLE>

This isnt the exact link I read before, but its explained about half way down the page.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=453880

 

The reason ARP's should be re-torqued is that they have a flat end which ends up making contact at the bottom of the hole. This ends up causing incorrect torque specs in "some", not all cases. So when the engine is heat cycled a few times you can end up having premature head gasket failure due to the head lifting off the block. AEBS and there dimpled design tend to alleviate that issue. The dimple has less contact surface area therefore a lesser degree of torque is lost by way of the stud botteming out and more is generated on the threads...Either way...they are both strong and are easier when it comes to the rebuild. Just a bit more piece of mind with the AEBS....just my two cents.

 

A lot of mis-information in this thread. Head studs never need to be retorqued. If they loosen, something else is failing.
If one manufacturers stud is larger than the others, it does not mean it is stronger.
Stock head bolts are not as strong as aftermarket studs.
Either brand will work equally as well although I prefer ARP because that company specializes only in fasteners.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by earl &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A lot of mis-information in this thread. Head studs never need to be retorqued. If they loosen, something else is failing.
If one manufacturers stud is larger than the others, it does not mean it is stronger.
Stock head bolts are not as strong as aftermarket studs.
Either brand will work equally as well although I prefer ARP because that company specializes only in fasteners.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree 100% with Earl...35k miles on benson/earl block which I assembled (put the head on) with arp's and never had to retorque and never had any issues! 17psi daily driven.