Hello all, I'm here bcause the GF's 98 prelude may be in some serious trouble.

First off let me say that I know very little about Hondas, I do have a very strong background with Subarus and know my way around most everything short of full engine and tranny rebuilding.

Anyways, the problem is that its been going through oil like crazy. No real accurate amount but I'd say at least 2 quarts every 1000 miles or so. There are no surface leaks at any of the major connections. No puddles of oil or plumes of blue smoke. I've checked the coolant and no mixing or exhaust smells, so its not the head gasket.

This leads me believe that the rings are shot along with the cyl walls. Now I know its a semi-major procedure to yank the heads and put new rings on a subie, but how bad are they on a Prelude?

Would the cost of paying to have her engine rebuilt be more then the cost of swapping in a used engine?

How much does a decent H22 go for?

Or am I totally barking up the wrong tree with my diagnosis?

Thanks in advance!

 

This is typical Prelude (H22) behavior. It seems that all of Honda's FRM engines have an appetite for oil. (Fiber Reinforced Metal cylinder liners, includes the B21, H22, F20C among others). I've heard a few theories tossed around about why FRM engines eat oil, but I wouldn't be qualified to comment myself...

Rebuilding the engine seems like the best solution of the two, even if it costs more than a used JDM longblock. H22s love to eat oil, so you have pretty good odds that the "new" used engine will also eat oil.

You might as well try running thicker oil. I've had some weird experiences with oil viscosity and burning, but going thicker should help prevent blowing oil through the rings. Oil's cheap, engine teardowns arn't.

 

Low mileage ( its really unknown mileage ) JDM H22's usually go for around $1200 just for the longblock.

Invest $50 in a Helms manual for this vehicle if you plan on doing all the work. It is an invaluable tool for working on Honda's

I would recommend finding a local shop that is in good standing and has fantastic customer service to do the work for you.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by A Blue Lude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This is typical Prelude (H22) behavior. It seems that all of Honda's FRM engines have an appetite for oil. (Fiber Reinforced Metal cylinder liners, includes the B21, H22, F20C among others). I've heard a few theories tossed around about why FRM engines eat oil, but I wouldn't be qualified to comment myself...

Rebuilding the engine seems like the best solution of the two, even if it costs more than a used JDM longblock. H22s love to eat oil, so you have pretty good odds that the "new" used engine will also eat oil.

You might as well try running thicker oil. I've had some weird experiences with oil viscosity and burning, but going thicker should help prevent blowing oil through the rings. Oil's cheap, engine teardowns arn't.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks. I'll switch from 10w30 to 5w30. Any brand recomendations? I run MOTUL brand in my subie but thats too expensive to be putting in all the time.

What are you getting for comsumption, miles per quart?

And why do you recommened rebuilding over swapping? Is it a labor issue or money?


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98TypeSH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Low mileage ( its really unknown mileage ) JDM H22's usually go for around $1200 just for the longblock.

Invest $50 in a Helms manual for this vehicle if you plan on doing all the work. It is an invaluable tool for working on Honda's

I would recommend finding a local shop that is in good standing and has fantastic customer service to do the work for you.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Do you know of a place to get the actual shop manual? I've found Hanes/Helms manuals to come up short.


A general rule of thumb for subies is to get a compression check if something is awry. This true for Hondas?

 

you were supposed to be using 5w30 anyway. should say that on the oil cap

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by runnah &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Do you know of a place to get the actual shop manual? I've found Hanes/Helms manuals to come up short.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

You're confused here, the Helms manual is the Honda shop manual...there is nothing better. Go to http://www.helminc.com

A Haynes/Chiltons manual is the crap you find at auto parts stores.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bigj505 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you were supposed to be using 5w30 anyway. should say that on the oil cap </TD></TR></TABLE>

We run 10w30 for the cold winters we get here. I'll have to see if switching helps.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hawkze_2.3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You're confused here, the Helms manual is the Honda shop manual...there is nothing better. Go to http://www.helminc.com

A Haynes/Chiltons manual is the crap you find at auto parts stores. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Ahh gotcha! Thanks for the link!

 

5w-30 is thinner than 10w-30 at cold temperatures. Theoretically they have the same viscosity at when the engine is warmed up.

If you're ripping through 10w-30, try 10w-40 or 15w-40 and see if it helps.

I use synthetic oil, I'm on Mobil 1 10w-30 right now. I'm probably only burning 1L per 3000km right now, better than my GC 0w-30 was doing after winter ended.
I just check the dipstick every few fillups and carry a few 1L bottles under my seat, always.

 

a blue lude is correct! 5 Weight oil is thinner when cold than 10Weight oil. They both flow as 30 Weight oil when hot