Blitz black owners, finish, durability?
OK, So I plan to paint my car blitz black as soon as I finish the body work.
I live in Salt Lake City and I am wondering how the paint holds up to weather and other elements.
We have hard water are water spots a problem?
We get all four seasons one of which plagues our roads with salt. Has anyone noticed the salt deposits being harder to remove and appear clean after?
How does it respond to waxing etc...?
I guess basically what I am concerned with is how the paint stands the text of time. Also slightly assuming that because it is a flat single stage it may be a little more pourus and maybe not an ideal finish for my car.
Anyone who has first hand experience your response would be greatly appreciated.
THANKS!!!
I live in Salt Lake City and I am wondering how the paint holds up to weather and other elements.
We have hard water are water spots a problem?
We get all four seasons one of which plagues our roads with salt. Has anyone noticed the salt deposits being harder to remove and appear clean after?
How does it respond to waxing etc...?
I guess basically what I am concerned with is how the paint stands the text of time. Also slightly assuming that because it is a flat single stage it may be a little more pourus and maybe not an ideal finish for my car.
Anyone who has first hand experience your response would be greatly appreciated.
THANKS!!!
i think he's talking about the john deer black paint.
of course your going to get water spots, it's black yo
the flat finish of it wont make it any more porous than regular single stage, all paint is porous a certain amount
It sprayes like any other paint with the proper ratio of reducer and hardner. blitz black is an enamel and not a urathane like todays base/clear systems so its not going to stand up as well to the elements
Modified by b16ej1lsd at 11:14 PM 6/25/2006
of course your going to get water spots, it's black yo
the flat finish of it wont make it any more porous than regular single stage, all paint is porous a certain amount
It sprayes like any other paint with the proper ratio of reducer and hardner. blitz black is an enamel and not a urathane like todays base/clear systems so its not going to stand up as well to the elements
Modified by b16ej1lsd at 11:14 PM 6/25/2006
Cool thanks for the info. Thus far I dont really know to much about paint. And I really know even less about the John Deer Blitz Black.
I understand the woes of a black car though, definetely a love hate relationship here.
I just wasnt sure if things would be more difficult to maintain as far as salt and hard water. I would still like more responses though...
Thanks again
I understand the woes of a black car though, definetely a love hate relationship here.
I just wasnt sure if things would be more difficult to maintain as far as salt and hard water. I would still like more responses though...
Thanks again
if you want flat black do black basecoat/clear with a matting agent in the clear to give it the flat finish. you could even put the matting agent into some types of single stage, read the info on the can or ask your local jobber.
if your worried about salt and whatnot then strip the whole car to bare metal, shoot 2 coats of epoxy and then do your body work over top of that. this gives it excellent corrosion resistance. then shoot your highbuild primer and paint it. of course im skipping steps but im just giving you an idea
if your worried about salt and whatnot then strip the whole car to bare metal, shoot 2 coats of epoxy and then do your body work over top of that. this gives it excellent corrosion resistance. then shoot your highbuild primer and paint it. of course im skipping steps but im just giving you an idea
Hahaha, there is no way I am going to bare metal with this car. And I understand where you are coming from with all of this and I understand the steps to do it right.
As newb as it sounds, I have attended one year of collision repair, next is refinishing so thus far I have no real experience with it (refinishing) but as far as corrosion protection etc. I do understand the correct steps for an ideal finish/repair.
As far as the finish goes, I am primarily concerned about the way it looks. This is not going to be a car I have for ever. I just want it to look good for a few years, like 3 tops.
I just dont want to get myself into more of a mess then say a base/clear. If i went that route I would do something way cooler then a flat finish.
And I do not want to do a base/clear cause well, I do not want to put the effort into it.
More less my concern is ease of maintenance.
Thanks very much for your help this far though.
As newb as it sounds, I have attended one year of collision repair, next is refinishing so thus far I have no real experience with it (refinishing) but as far as corrosion protection etc. I do understand the correct steps for an ideal finish/repair.
As far as the finish goes, I am primarily concerned about the way it looks. This is not going to be a car I have for ever. I just want it to look good for a few years, like 3 tops.
I just dont want to get myself into more of a mess then say a base/clear. If i went that route I would do something way cooler then a flat finish.
And I do not want to do a base/clear cause well, I do not want to put the effort into it.
More less my concern is ease of maintenance.
Thanks very much for your help this far though.
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