How do I keep a/c , cruise and power steering when i swap to a b18a1 into my 91lx 5spd. i need it all.

 

come on

i know its been done.

 

There is an A/C bracket that you can buy to retain the A/C as far at the PS and cruise I am not sure.

 

Search.

But I'm nice today so, here we go:

You need the bracket for the PS from the integra, same thing with AC and the cruise will work no problem. Just connect it as you normally would on...wait LX, so you have DPFI? Ya it will work, you just need to use the cable from the integra I beleive.

 

It will be a tight fit if you can do it. You will also have to find a crank pulley that will accomodate the belts. Might be easier to just get a manual rack and loose PS.

 

I did serach, but all I found was stuff about speed sensitive power steering on b-16's


Modified by 91lx998 at 6:34 PM 6/25/2006

 

91lx998;

Did you buy the engine complete with PS and AC compressor (and related brackets)?

If so, you may be better off using them and make up custom AC hook-up hoses.

A lot of what can be done depends on what compressor was used for the B18. If it's a Sanden, then the street-rod industry has a bunch of options that may help.

<U>You will have to locate a local AC installation shop.</U> The reason is that in order to make up AC hoses, you need access to a crimp tool that's an AC only item.

Another option is to make up hoses using the recently released Aeroquip AC lines and fittings. The hose is stainless steel braided and it all looks real "bling". However plan on spending more than $25 for each fitting.

Wes

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Wes V &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">91lx998;

Did you buy the engine complete with PS and AC compressor (and related brackets)?

If so, you may be better off using them and make up custom AC hook-up hoses.

A lot of what can be done depends on what compressor was used for the B18. If it's a Sanden, then the street-rod industry has a bunch of options that may help.

<U>You will have to locate a local AC installation shop.</U> The reason is that in order to make up AC hoses, you need access to a crimp tool that's an AC only item.

Another option is to make up hoses using the recently released Aeroquip AC lines and fittings. The hose is stainless steel braided and it all looks real "bling". However plan on spending more than $25 for each fitting.

Wes</TD></TR></TABLE>

The stock B-series compressor won't work without a custom crossmember. In it's stock position, it interferes with the crossmember. It just sits WAYY too low. And even if you get a custom crossmember, why spend all that time and money trying to get a different compressor to work when you can just get the Hasport bracket to make your stock unit work?

Just one thing. The hardest part about running A/C in a swapped car is getting a good fan setup. At least if you want the A/C to keep you cool while the car is stationary.

 

StorminMatt brings up an interesting point!

I've got an old Place Racing cross-member and there are no clearance issues between the compressor and it. There may be problems with other cross-members and I just don't know.

Just so you all know, I've got a 89 hatchback with GSR motor. The radiator is a modine DA full width replacment unit.

There is no room between the headers and the radiator for a fan and I got a Spal 9" pusher fan to sit in front of the AC condensor on the drivers side.

Fitting the pusher fan causes a problem with the AC line that goes directly across the front of the radiator and condensor core. I got around that by making up a stainless hard line that directs it down low along the radiator core support.

<U>Putting the AC back in is possible, but there are a lot of details that have to be addressed.</U>

Wes

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Wes V &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
There is no room between the headers and the radiator for a fan and I got a Spal 9" pusher fan to sit in front of the AC condensor on the drivers side.

Fitting the pusher fan causes a problem with the AC line that goes directly across the front of the radiator and condensor core. I got around that by making up a stainless hard line that directs it down low along the radiator core support.

Wes</TD></TR></TABLE>

how did you make this line ?

 

BoostedEF;

I'm not done yet, so don't have "finished" photos. I'm adding a remote oil cooler and also re-installing the AC. <U>EVERYTHING </U>wants to occupy the same space! Keep in mind that I'm still running the original USDM front end with bumper and that <U>REALLY</U> limits space. I've had to cut out a fair amount of the bumper support, but it all fits!

But on to the photos;



This shows pretty much everything except for the two 90 degree hose ends I'm waiting for. It shows the re-routed hard line made out of stainless hardline tube.

As for the tube, the headache is getting AC hose ends. Well, Vintage Air sells "weld-on" tube ends that are made out of stainless steel for the street rod guys.

Here is a photo of the parts for the female end;



After bending up the tube to fit, I had a fabrication shop tig weld on the fitting.



I've got a mig welder, but doing this is a bit beyond my welding ability.

On the male end, I was just able to silver solder on the adapter that I also got from Vintage Air.

Wes Vann


Modified by Wes V at 1:50 PM 7/1/2006

 

ok so in pic #2 the thing on the right is what goes to the receiver right ? you bough the 2 pieces in the middle. the thing pn the right is the steel hard line same thing you would use for brake lines right ? so your going to slide the top piece on to the bottom one ( 2 middle pieces from pic 2 ) weld it to the hard line and the top piece is still going to rotate after the weld right? lol that just sounded funny

 

BoostedEF;

You have it right. That "upper" piece stays free to rotate when all is said and done (as in photo #3). That's required in order to tighten the fitting.

The tube size of the stainless steel hardline is 3/8" for that particular AC tube.

Wes