i misshifted 4th and went into second . I was speeding cus i was in a hurry. I saw the needle and it went up to atleast 12000rpm. I know the tach go up to 8000rpm in the 4th gen, but i m just estimating cus the needle went beyond that. NOw i hear this loud knocking noise from the engine everytime i start it up. The car is still driveable, and seem to have lost some power. Knocking seems to be coming frm the bottom of the engine not the top. How long can i drive like this?any advices will be appreciated. Thanks

 

If it's loud, comming from the bottom, and knocking... i give ie.... 2, maybe 3 days. It would generally be a bad idea to drive it in this condition, as it will already make a bad condition worse. Look forward rebuilding the bottom end, or buying a new engine. Btw.... shifting 3rd to 4th... I don't understand how people miss that shift? I can kinda see people missing a 5-4 and hitting 2... kinda... but 3 to 4... it's straight down... u dont even need to use your air. The shifter auto centers it, u just flick it down.

Anyway, Your rod(s) and/or bearings are fucked. You over heated, and probably starved it of oil at a high temp. Somethings gone, or will be shortly.

 

damit, good thing i live like 5mins away from work. I hope i will be able to make it there and back tomorrow and buy a bike over the weekend.

 

You spun bearings my friend. Stop driving the car now, and you might be able to save the crank.

 

either way, its cheaper to buy a new h23, or even h22 than to rebuild it. Im assuming you cant rebuild a bottom end based upon this post, and labor rates to rebuild will rape your wallet. s

 

how did you rev to 12000 rpm's? my 5th gen has its rev limiter is set at 8000 rpm's.

 

sometimes the ecu isnt quick enough and the motor scoots right on by the rev limiter.

 

There is always a fixed ratio of engine speed v. gear speed v. wheel speed. You made a physical connection with the engine and transmission at __mph in 2nd gear. Per 2nd gear ratio and your high vehicle speed, you FORCED the motor to rev that high.

 

I have done this..the exact thing. i bent about 4 valves in the head...i took the money that it would have cost to buy a new motor and put it in the head. Dont listen to anyone about just buying a new motor. take that money and build back with some power. Lets say for $1500 rather then having a stock h22. you could have a nicely built bottom end with much more power then a stock h22. I wouldnt be suprised if you didnt have bent valves plus spun bearing. I only bent valves...but later the bottom end went.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMF22B &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I don't understand how people miss that shift? I can kinda see people missing a 5-4 and hitting 2... kinda... but 3 to 4... it's straight down... u dont even need to use your air. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I've done it before having a short shifter in it.

When your power shifting in a race from 3rd to 4th you have a tendancey to pull the shifter back towards you, back into second.

The only way to save it then is to know you've messed up by the sound of the
motor and push the clutch back in, in time before your motor is toast.


To the original poster, there's a good chance you've bent the valves as stated
before. Do a compression and leakdown test on it and inform us
of your results.

 

Ok lets diagnose this......

mISSHIFT 4TH to 2nd.... if he was in that much of a hurry, he shifted into second at atleast 70 mph...

Loud knocking noise from bottom end. That means one, if not all rods are gone, which means a rebuild. With the rods gone from that kind of misshift, the head is definately fuxxored. Yes you could completely rebuild the head and bottom end, with good stuff, and pay about 1.5k-2k in just parts and get raped by labor, or u can spend 1.5-2k and get a new engine in there after labor. If you have 4K at least to do a 'real' rebuild, by all means do it.

 

Rod bearings................................gay

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMF22B &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok lets diagnose this......

mISSHIFT 4TH to 2nd.... if he was in that much of a hurry, he shifted into second at atleast 70 mph...
</TD></TR></TABLE>

He had to be going faster than 70. A miss shift into 2nd at about 70 would only take the RPM's to a little past 8 grand. I had a friend pull his car into second at about 90 and the thing SCREAMED. Luckily he didn't bend any valves.

 

i started her up this morning and i did not hear any loud knocking noises, the idle was still pretty good. But as I accelerated to park my car underground and she will stay there for atleast a year. I felt some power loss. My plan is by next summer I'll have enough money for a JDM swap. i will then rebuilt the motor with Type -s piston and stage 2 cam. etc. This sucks, because im trying to get rid of my leather interior and rims for a cheap civic to drive around until i have the money saved up.

 

Lesson learned..... Learn your gearbox- it is your friend. treat the shifter gently. its not a baseball bat and there is absolutelly no need to slam it into gear. It wont make you go faster. A good techinicque to use is imagine your shift **** is an eg- be gentle. Learn to shift while trying to not crack the "EGG".
good luck

 

Doesnt mean u cant shift fast, but dont do it forcefully. All u really need is a quick wrist flick. not a whole arm slam. One thing i loved about my lude was compared to a lot of other cars ive driven (mostly mitsu's)... the gears are spaced well. I could definately see this happening in an eclipse or evo, their so close together

 

when i did this i was going about 80 or so down the interstate and i grabbed my gay *** metal shift **** and it burned the **** out of hand. so when i grabbed it to go to 4th i just yanked it and it went to 2nd and then rpm gauge went nuts! oh well though...it happens

 

just happened to me actually, but under normal condition, turns out my rod bearings went bad and now I ordered an H23 from Hmotors........but in total it will cost about 1500 for a longblock and all the seals, water pump, etc., it sucked when I found out but luckily I had an extended warranty which covered all the parts and labor

 

i will be saving up money for a JDM motor swap next summer. I also want to save up for skunk2 cam and retainer, springs.
I also want to upgrade the piston since the new motor is off the car and it will be easier to rebuilt it. How much more work is involved to rebuilt the bottom? if it's too costly then i'll just rebuilt the head in the new motor.