I'm thinking of getting these for my first R tires for the track. However, I'm a little freaked at the possibility of getting a tire that gives me little to no warning. Are the RA1s progressive or noisy at all? BTW, I'm used to Hankook R-S2s now.

Dan

Edit: Umm, Why TF does this post bring up mortgage ads by google?


Modified by LudemanDan at 6:58 AM 6/21/2006

 

RA-1's IMO have a very forgiving breakaway characteristics. I would think they are a great R compound tire for your first time. Generally they talk before they totally break loose. IMO they recover really well...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LudemanDan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Edit: Umm, why TF does this post bring up mortgage ads by google? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Maybe the words "Racing" and "Breakaway" imply that someone is "breaking away from racing" which in turn would mean they would finally have money to purchase a home, thus a mortgage.

 

Yeah, what he said... Toyos may not be the fastest tire in the Rrrrr-compound market, but they probably ARE the most user friendly. You'll love them. And if you have a choice between two sizes, get the big ones. Don't get all spun out on the shaving thing. The guys who preach the shaver speech are either racers or super competitive auto-crossers. I ran full treads all of last season and never had a problem...

 

Yep, these guys are telling the truth!

The only thing you need to be concerned with about teh RA1 is after you slide the tires. If you slide the tires through a corner, they will be pretty slippery for the next corner. As long as you know it and understand it, you wont have a problem!

Great tires especially for a beginner!

Just a quick question for you though. Why do you want to go to a "R" compound tire? Unless you are doing some sort of competition, it's really not worth the money. Yes, it will let you go faster. But you will also pay more for it and it wont teach anything that the street tires don't already do!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by prkiller &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Just a quick question for you though. Why do you want to go to a "R" compound tire? Unless you are doing some sort of competition, it's really not worth the money. </TD></TR></TABLE>
My 94 Prelude Si is one of the slow cars on the track, so I figure it's fair to use some equipment upgrades to help me keep up with the Miatas 'n stuff.

 

Agree with everything said. A very forgiving tire that communicates quite well. They're also bullet proof in terms of wear. I have six high-mile time trial track events on mine, and I only pulled them because I'm trying the Hoosier R6 this year. (I'm saving them because they still have life left.) And the last lap I did with them was the fastest lap I turned at track I ran three other times with the same tires - so they seem to improve as they wear, if you don't have them shaved (which I didn't).

Regarding the cost, the RA-1 is also probably one of the most inexpensive R-compounds out there (not sure where some of the newer entries weigh in). You really can't go wrong using these as your first track tire. My company has a discount at TownFair Tire (I think mostly a New England franchise), and they also offer free mounting/balancing. I think I ended up paying something like $75/tire for 205/50/15 + tax, etc.

Like any other R-compound, don't go nuts on the first lap. Allow the tire to get up to temperature.

 

Another vote here for the RA-1 and what's already been said. I use 'em, and love 'em. Although I gotta say, there are a lot of great track tires on the market, and they're all pretty darn good.

I don't get mine shaved, and they're wearing at about the same rate as my A032R did, getting roughly 1500 actual track miles (plus another ~500 miles between track and hotel) to a set on the ITR, rotating them front-rear and flipping them to even out the wear.

This previous post tells where you can buy Toyo RA-1's. I get mine at Frisby. Great folks.

 

Watch a little video of the ITR expo & you'll hear my squeaky RA1s (1 year old - 2 expos, 1 hpde, 1 race weekend) going around the track. This should help you see how much they 'notify' you before giving away.

http://www.nocoastracing.com/g...B.wmv [100MB right-click & save as]

 

Umm, it wants to save as a text document.

 

I've done a couple of HPDE's on Azenis. Didn't plan on tracking at the ITR Expo, but I was ok'd to get out for a few sessions. Borrowed Chris F's bald RA1's. Never driven on R comps before. Very sticky. Spun in T6 at Gingerman with no squealing beforehand. But once you are into the spin the scream and put up a smoke screen.

EDIT: I should mentioned I'm running no exhaust at all so that might have hurt my hearing...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BudMan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Watch a little video of the ITR expo & you'll hear my squeaky RA1s (1 year old - 2 expos, 1 hpde, 1 race weekend) going around the track. This should help you see how much they 'notify' you before giving away.</TD></TR></TABLE>

They were singing. And a singing tire is a happy tire.

 

Nice video! Almost looks like you put some wheels in the dirt once or twice. And were there several identical black BMWs on the track, or did you lap that one several times?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LudemanDan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Nice video! Almost looks like you put some wheels in the dirt once or twice. And were there several identical black BMWs on the track, or did you lap that one several times? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes - I like to cut the corners, especially T1 & T11. There's a reason there's no grass on the other side of the rumble strips.

It's the same BMW. I normally wouldn't lap him, but he had a spin right after my first pass, so that let me get some more space. He's a great guy.

Hopefully, the point was to listen for the "singing" RA1's around T3 & T6 especially. They do make noise that can be heard even in my loud honking car.

Note to self: switch suspension back to full soft - I had a 1 1/2' tail out on the exit ramp this morning...it's always fun driving the race car to work. (I was driving at the appropriate speed - I enjoy advertising REAL racing NOT street crap).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BudMan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's the same BMW.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Was that the "Fire Car"'s father?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by prkiller &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...after you slide the tires. If you slide the tires through a corner, they will be pretty slippery for the next corner!</TD></TR></TABLE>
LOL... I was dealing with that just a few hours ago.

 

Ricers, both of you.

edit: I thought GK was replying to Budman.. I think perhaps Budman is the only ricer in the thread

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxtasy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Was that the "Fire Car"'s father?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yep.



Modified by Chris F at 10:29 AM 6/24/2006

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LudemanDan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm thinking of getting these for my first R tires for the track. However, I'm a little freaked at the possibility of getting a tire that gives me little to no warning. Are the RA1s progressive or noisy at all? BTW, I'm used to Hankook R-S2s now. </TD></TR></TABLE>

They're forgiving. Don't depend on the sound too much though. I've also used Victoracers, and Hankook Z214's on track, I didn't think either of those were particularly unforgiving.

Toyos aren't too crappy after some age, another plus for HPDE. I just ran a set that was 2 years old and they were much faster than my soon-to-be corded 1 year old Z214's

If you want to go faster, that's the cheapest way to do it. Street tires are expensive. Plus, you could get a set of all-seasons that last a few years rather than burning $$ on sticky summer tires every summer. That'd be smart.. I never did buy all-seasons for the R though, after 8 years

Also to note, I think Toyo's do well while cool/cold compared to some other R comps.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris F &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you want to go faster, that's the cheapest way to do it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yup.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris F &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Street tires are expensive.</TD></TR></TABLE>

On a per-mile basis, track tires are more expensive than street tires.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris F &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Plus, you could get a set of all-seasons that last a few years rather than burning $$ on sticky summer tires every summer. That'd be smart..</TD></TR></TABLE>

Only if you really don't care at all what kind of grip you have on the street. When it's not the middle of winter, even inexpensive summer tires have way more grip than all-seasons. And a lot of the really good summer tires out there (like the inexpensive Kumho SPT and the not-so-inexpensive Goodyear F1 GS-D3, just to name two) have treadwear ratings in the 280-340 range and last up to 25-40K miles or more, which ain't bad for decent summer tires and starts to approach the treadlife of all-seasons.

(If you're stuck using the same street tires in winter conditions as the rest of the year, then that's a different story, and you're probably stuck getting all-seasons.)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxtasy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">On a per-mile basis, track tires are more expensive than street tires.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't know that that's true.

If I run Azenis all summer and drive a lot of track and non-track miles on the same Azenis, <U>and replace them before they get to the wear bars</U>, that might be expensive.

If I run RA1's on the track <U>down to the cords</U>, and a higher mileage all-season tire or cheaper/longer lasting summer tire on the street, that might be less expensive than tracking/streeting Azenis down to the wear bars.

I'm not sure how many track events it would take to get Azenis (new or old) down to a tread level unsuitable for the street.

 

I have about 20% left on my 215 Azenis. I'm not comfortable driving on the interstate in the rain with them if the rain is moderate. Car will skate at the posted speed limit.

 

I have never run on new RA-1s. I was getting the good "throwaways" from the tire truck after Spec miata races. My RA-1s never squealed in the turns and I would not rely on that for warning. For me it is all buttometer. I always felt the RA1s were pretty linear on breakaway and communicated the limit pretty well. That is until they are about to cord. And then you get no warning. Ask me how I know!

Barry H.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by apexinghonda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That is until they are about to cord. And then you get no warning. Ask me how I know!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
How do you know?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris F &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ricers, both of you.

edit: I thought GK was replying to Budman.. I think perhaps Budman is the only ricer in the thread


</TD></TR></TABLE>

I keep the big rat can hanging off the back just for you... My goal is to lead a new generation of old fat white guy ricers.