wilwood caliper and 15 inch slipstreams
can this be done?
What width of slip stream 6.5 or 7 and why?
can I just get a pair of wilwood calipars and match them to the stock rotors?
Thanks Guys
What width of slip stream 6.5 or 7 and why?
can I just get a pair of wilwood calipars and match them to the stock rotors?
Thanks Guys
There's no point in replacing your stock ITR brakes with a Wilwood kit unless you do a lot of road racing/ auto-xing. You will never use a Wilwood kit to its full potential on the street. The calipers alone cost $40 each along with the aluminum rotor hats@ $125 each.
Get a set of Brembo blanks and some good pads( Cobalt , Hawk HP)
Get a set of Brembo blanks and some good pads( Cobalt , Hawk HP)
There are tow willwood kits avalible. One has a huge rotor and definately will not fit over a 15 inch. I am unsure of the smaller rotor. I forgot the sizes so you're going to have to look it up, but I hope that steers you in the right direction.
Also I believe you have to use the willwood hub/rotor, and their calipers together. There is a bracket you get with the kit that you need inorder to bolt the caliper on. However if you have access to a machine shop I don't see why you can't fab a bracket to make it fit any rotor. The calipers they use are basically universal, as they have the same 5 and 1/2 inch mounts, with the correct plate you could position the caliper to make it fit any rotor, which is what they use to make it fit their stuff.
If you could make the brackets to fit a stock rotor, I would be interested in a pair because I would hate being locked in to buying wilwood rotors forever. They are really expensive.
Also I believe you have to use the willwood hub/rotor, and their calipers together. There is a bracket you get with the kit that you need inorder to bolt the caliper on. However if you have access to a machine shop I don't see why you can't fab a bracket to make it fit any rotor. The calipers they use are basically universal, as they have the same 5 and 1/2 inch mounts, with the correct plate you could position the caliper to make it fit any rotor, which is what they use to make it fit their stuff.
If you could make the brackets to fit a stock rotor, I would be interested in a pair because I would hate being locked in to buying wilwood rotors forever. They are really expensive.
hey thanks alot for the great info
currently finances don't allow for 4 piston calipers, but soon enough I will do something and let you know
currently I have an itr 5 lug setup with oversized brembo slotted rotors with hawk pads, dot 4 AP Racing Fluid and goodridge lines......hasn't let me down yet. Should look into it unless you know down the road u will drop the $$$ for a big brake kit
My main interest is a four piston calipar that fits within a 15 inch light weight rim, I don't wanna be stock only being able to use 17's
currently finances don't allow for 4 piston calipers, but soon enough I will do something and let you know
currently I have an itr 5 lug setup with oversized brembo slotted rotors with hawk pads, dot 4 AP Racing Fluid and goodridge lines......hasn't let me down yet. Should look into it unless you know down the road u will drop the $$$ for a big brake kit
My main interest is a four piston calipar that fits within a 15 inch light weight rim, I don't wanna be stock only being able to use 17's
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bbasso »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Stock brakes not enough for you??
that's a first... try a pad upgrade.</TD></TR></TABLE>
X2 id kill to have a stock itr brake set up in my ej6, it doesnt even have to be the complete change over.. i could live with just the front brakes.. and my car halls *** and i could really use that set up
that's a first... try a pad upgrade.</TD></TR></TABLE>
X2 id kill to have a stock itr brake set up in my ej6, it doesnt even have to be the complete change over.. i could live with just the front brakes.. and my car halls *** and i could really use that set up
Wilwood Dynalites with 11.1" rotors definitely clear 15x6.5 +38 Slipstreams. That is with the two-piece rotors though, and that rotor hat is awfully thick. In addition, FWIW I wasn't impressed with them, and like ITR calipers a lot more, even with the weight penalty.
^ I called the wilwood people before. They are very helpful. Find their number on the site, and they will patch you over to the tech department. However, they deal with lots of american muscle, and do not seem as informed about imports. as mentioned before, the 11.1 inch rotor and caliper will fit, but you need a custom bracket, because their brackets are made for their thick hats.
Ohh the calipers are more like $150- $200 each, not $40.
Ohh the calipers are more like $150- $200 each, not $40.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pornstar4777 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">good info guys....and I have a 2000 ek9 ctr
keep it coming.....where has 15 by 6.5 slipstreams in stock....flat black</TD></TR></TABLE>
hmmm, pics please
keep it coming.....where has 15 by 6.5 slipstreams in stock....flat black</TD></TR></TABLE>
hmmm, pics please
Another issue to consider with aftermarket calipers that do not use the OEM pad size is availability. Many manufacturers do not make pads for some of the willwood, outlaw, and KVR kits. Those who do make the pads are often on back order until they have enough backorders to make producing a batch profitable. If you are really concerned about modulation and/or heat dispersal, and dead set on a brake upgrade but want the OEM pad availability, then consider an NSX caliper w/ legend GS rotor, or the spoon calipers.
If you really want to save money and upgrade brakes, then head to an autozone, pep boys, advanced auto, etc. and order the NSX rebuilt calipers from them. They should be around $56 each. The only problem is that they all outsource the same company, and that company only has 1 caliper in stock at the moment, which is the front left caliper, but they should have the right one in stock in a week or two.
If you really want to save money and upgrade brakes, then head to an autozone, pep boys, advanced auto, etc. and order the NSX rebuilt calipers from them. They should be around $56 each. The only problem is that they all outsource the same company, and that company only has 1 caliper in stock at the moment, which is the front left caliper, but they should have the right one in stock in a week or two.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mythias »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and order the NSX rebuilt calipers from them. They should be around $56 each. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Dammit, I should've picked those up instead of rebuilt ITR calipers!
Dammit, I should've picked those up instead of rebuilt ITR calipers!
somebody pm'ed me about a part number for a wilwood caliper. If they read the thread you can basically put any caliper that wilwood has on your chasis given you have 1) custom brackets to mount it to the rotor 2) large enough to stop your car 3) can clear the wheel.
Honestly there are so many combos, you could probably make a 6 piston fit under there, i don't know, don't have the funds to order a whole bunch of calipers to figure out.
Of anyone is interested, go to their website, and look for the honda integra/civic big brake kit instructions. they brake down all the parts with part numbers. Then you can cross reference those numbers to the catalogue (aso on the site) and find the specs for the caliper. Good luck to anyone who does this. and if you can mass produce the bracket, I'll but a set.
Honestly there are so many combos, you could probably make a 6 piston fit under there, i don't know, don't have the funds to order a whole bunch of calipers to figure out.
Of anyone is interested, go to their website, and look for the honda integra/civic big brake kit instructions. they brake down all the parts with part numbers. Then you can cross reference those numbers to the catalogue (aso on the site) and find the specs for the caliper. Good luck to anyone who does this. and if you can mass produce the bracket, I'll but a set.
http://my.prostreetonline.com/member/pornstar4777/
not many pics but thats the car
not many pics but thats the car
My suggestion is that you keep the ITR calipers as they are fairly competant brakes and get two-piece rotors to compliment them, You'll find a lot less vibration under braking and you may hear them shift a little at low speeds, but after having driven cars with and without them, with them is 100x better.
just my $0.02
just my $0.02
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nocal E32M »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">..get two-piece rotor...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Do you mean actual "floating" rotors?
If so, where to you get real floating rotors for an OEM brake system? The only floating rotors I've seen come with Brembo's & Stoptech's big brake kits, and those rotors definitely wont' work with OEM calipers...
Do you mean actual "floating" rotors?
If so, where to you get real floating rotors for an OEM brake system? The only floating rotors I've seen come with Brembo's & Stoptech's big brake kits, and those rotors definitely wont' work with OEM calipers...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nocal E32M »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You'll find a lot less vibration under braking and you may hear them shift a little at low speeds, but after having driven cars with and without them, with them is 100x better.
just my $0.02</TD></TR></TABLE>
If the rotor is moving on the hat ("shift a little at low speeds"), then they aren't attached to each other properly. I also don't know why there'd be less vibration with one vs. the other, or how you could even tell a difference between them based on the feel of the car. Based on the laws of physics, there's no reason to think one would feel any different from the other.
just my $0.02</TD></TR></TABLE>
If the rotor is moving on the hat ("shift a little at low speeds"), then they aren't attached to each other properly. I also don't know why there'd be less vibration with one vs. the other, or how you could even tell a difference between them based on the feel of the car. Based on the laws of physics, there's no reason to think one would feel any different from the other.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sscguy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If the rotor is moving on the hat ("shift a little at low speeds"), then they aren't attached to each other properly.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Floating rotors can tend to chatter because the rotor is not solidly attached to the hub. Both Brembo & Stoptech use a special spring type washer or insert to reduce such chatter...
Floating rotors can tend to chatter because the rotor is not solidly attached to the hub. Both Brembo & Stoptech use a special spring type washer or insert to reduce such chatter...





