Honda Accord (1990 - 2002) Includes 1997 - 1999 Acura CL

1996 Accord and a Moron with an Air Conditioner recharge/refill kit

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Old Jun 17, 2006 | 02:00 PM
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modernteknology's Avatar
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From: boston, ma, usa
Default Air Conditioner Pressure Issue and using recharge/refill kits (96 accord)

Hi
First of all, i am a total novice and know very little about cooling systems on a component level.

The air conditioner in my 1996 Honda Accord stopped producing cold air. The fan still works but only blows normal/hot air. The fuse is fine. The compressor turns on and off when i press my AC button, i can feel it kick on and kick off as needed. This means the clutch is sending the appropriate signal and engaging the compressor.

I bought an A/C recharge/refill kit (Brand: Inter-Dynamics) from the local automotive parts store. Unfortunately, i performed the first steps of the kit out of order, which i think may have caused a problem.

The first thing i did was connect the PSI gauge/hose to the low-pressure port, which the gauge read 10 psi. this means i am low on refrigerant. However, I connected the PSI gauge while the vehicle was turned off. You're supposed to do this while the vehicle is turned on. Therefor, i disconnected the gauge. Turned the vehicle on and turned on the AC as you're supposed to and reconnected my gauge. At this point the gauge reads 100psi. 100 PSI on the gauge indicates that something else is wrong with the system, rather than it just being low on refrigerent.

What is puzzling is why the PSI measurement was so low the first time. The psi went up so high only after disconnecting the gauge, turning the vehicle on and reconnecting the gauge. At this point the psi measurement is still high whether the vehicle is on or off.


Modified by modernteknology at 6:32 PM 6/17/2006
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Old Jun 17, 2006 | 03:15 PM
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Default Re: Air Conditioner Pressure Issue and using recharge/refill kits (modernteknology)

first find out if your clutch is engaging, sounds to me like the compressor is not coming on and your just charging the ac line itself. If the compressor is not coming on it has no way to draw the refrigerant into the system therefore giving you a high reading because its just reading the pressure in the line.
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Old Jun 17, 2006 | 05:30 PM
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Thanks for your reply 96akord,

I was able to verify that the clutch must be engaging the compressor. When i press the AC button inside the vehicle, i notice the subtle kick of the compressor turning on/off. it is very noticable(feels normal). This means the clutch is sending the appropriate signal. Also, a few hours after my inital post, i went back out to my car and took a measurement of the low-pressure port, and the PSI level has lowered almost 25psi, it is down to 75psi from 100psi just a few hours before. Any other suggestions as to why the PSI measurement is so high, and of course as to why i have no cool air? perhaps no refrigerant and also something else? Thanks!

(P.S. i edited my inital post to fill in some basic information on whether my compressor is working or not. 96akord's response to my initial post is not as redundant as it may appear now.) Thank you for your reply. Any more thoughts?? Thank you




Modified by modernteknology at 6:41 PM 6/17/2006
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Old Jun 17, 2006 | 08:42 PM
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Default Re: (modernteknology)

Some of those freon gauges have a check valve in the T so that the can of freon can't be pressurized. You have to break them loose between the T and the low pressure connector to relieve the residual pressure. If though, you are running the engine with the compressor on and the controls on high blower and recirculate and both of the radiator fans are running and the pressure is still 75 psi, then it is too high. Also check to make sure that you dont have a problem with your temperature **** not moving the air mixture door on the blower.
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Old Jun 18, 2006 | 10:31 AM
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amckee, thank you for your suggestions.
while running the engine, the compressor is on, the controls on the blower are set for recirculate and yes, both of the radiator fans are running, and the pressure is now almost 90psi. Regarding your first suggestion; unfortunately i'm not sure what you mean about: "Some of those freon gauges have a check valve in the T so that the can of freon can't be pressurized. You have to break them loose between the T and the low pressure connector to relieve the residual pressure." Could you clarify on that in more detail, i'm not sure what you're describing. Sorry for my ignorance on this matter. Thanks
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