yea i did search, but i didn't really get a detailed answer, just "go to autozone and buy a remanufactured one". well i think i may be screwed. my right rear caliper is seized, i cant even push it back in with two people and a C-clamp. i am attempting to look for someone to install a new one or rebuild the one i have, im too afraid of getting air in the brakes from bleeding the system. my question is can you rebuild a seized piston? thanks everyone

 

These days it costs 35.00 (cdn) for a caliper from a junkyard in good condition, if you're looking to save a little bit of money, you might want to look into it.

As far as rebuilding the caliper, if the piston is seized in the caliper, you can always try to press it out (non c clamp). Again, I think the easiest method (less time consuming anyways, IMO) might be to just find a used one from the wreckers.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sooo_slow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">These days it costs 35.00 (cdn) for a caliper from a junkyard in good condition, if you're looking to save a little bit of money, you might want to look into it.

As far as rebuilding the caliper, if the piston is seized in the caliper, you can always try to press it out (non c clamp). Again, I think the easiest method (less time consuming anyways, IMO) might be to just find a used one from the wreckers.</TD></TR></TABLE>yea, i think im going to search the forsale fourm. thanks for the advice....now i just need to find someone to put it on for me

 

lol, if you know how to change your brake pads, then its not too much more work to swap out the caliper, just a couple more bolts, unbolt the brake line, swap the caliper, bolt it up, put the pads on, then bleed the brakes.

Bleeding the brakes is simple, get a buddy to help you.

Just research quickly on the basic bleeding procedure, get some fluid, and go to town on it.....unless it's something you're still too worried to try. I think a normal shop would charge about an hour/hour and a half, labour to swap them/and bleed them.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sooo_slow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lol, if you know how to change your brake pads, then its not too much more work to swap out the caliper, just a couple more bolts, unbolt the brake line, swap the caliper, bolt it up, put the pads on, then bleed the brakes.

Bleeding the brakes is simple, get a buddy to help you.

Just research quickly on the basic bleeding procedure, get some fluid, and go to town on it.....unless it's something you're still too worried to try. I think a normal shop would charge about an hour/hour and a half, labour to swap them/and bleed them.</TD></TR></TABLE>yea, back in the day me and my dad tried it on his car and we had too much air in teh brakes and were never really able to get rid of it all. i can swap brakes easy as cake, maybe i should attempt it again though, thanks for the advice

 

To get the piston back in on the rear disc brakes, you need to turn them in with a tool like a large screwdriver, not push them in with a C-clamp.

Here is a link:
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/Brakes.html#ScrewIt

 

omg mad vtech brakes

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tech8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">To get the piston back in on the rear disc brakes, you need to turn them in with a tool like a large screwdriver, not push them in with a C-clamp.

Here is a link:
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/Brakes.html#ScrewIt</TD></TR></TABLE>

Lets hope he already knew that.....guess I should have asked that first...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sooo_slow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Lets hope he already knew that.....guess I should have asked that first...</TD></TR></TABLE>lol, yee i knew that, but i cant find a screwdriver big enough so ive always used a c-clamp. is this a bad idea? i tried using a pry bar and its not fat enough

 

lol well then, its not seized, you just have to rotate the piston to get it back in.

If you dont have a big screwdriver, you can use big needle nose pliers and turn it like that.

Or if you go to ur local parts store you can usually rent the correct tool that fits in the groove for like $10.00.

And yes if you have been using a c clamp and just forcing it in, that is bad for the piston. Could cause it to leak/bad seal....amoung other things.

Just to be on the safe side, I'd go get some calipers.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sooo_slow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lol well then, its not seized, you just have to rotate the piston to get it back in.

If you dont have a big screwdriver, you can use big needle nose pliers and turn it like that.

Or if you go to ur local parts store you can usually rent the correct tool that fits in the groove for like $10.00.

And yes if you have been using a c clamp and just forcing it in, that is bad for the piston. Could cause it to leak/bad seal....amoung other things.

Just to be on the safe side, I'd go get some calipers.</TD></TR></TABLE>yea, but only my right rear pads are completely gone, so im assuming its seized. i called a few junkyard in the area with out any luck. so if anyone has any pm me. i would go to autozone but the the closest one is about an hour away

 

here is a jersey guy parting out a 94ls (not sure if you are a member on team integra or not)

http://www.team-integra.net/fo...earch

 

brand new caliper is like 75cdn i think

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .brian. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">here is a jersey guy parting out a 94ls (not sure if you are a member on team integra or not)

http://www.team-integra.net/fo...earch</TD></TR></TABLE>lmao thanks brian!! i guess i found out what my problem was that i pm'd you about earlier.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rohit &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lmao thanks brian!! i guess i found out what my problem was that i pm'd you about earlier. </TD></TR></TABLE>if you can't get in contact with him, let me know, i will get you his email.

 

i just have one more question guys. im about to call autozone but they dont open up for a few hours so i was wondering whats the difference between a loaded, unloaded, and semi loaded caliper? which one do you guys think i need?

 

Loaded means it comes with new brake pads.

As stated earlier, don't use the C-clamp on the rears, they screw in.

Bleeding is a breeze, at least on my 92 RS it is. I have non-abs and I just gravity bleed the system, takes about 25 minutes, solo, no help.

 

quick question, if i am only replacing that one caliper....do i need to just bleed that side or do i have to bleed all 4 wheels? thanks guys, i just bought the caliper from advance auto....$75 i really appreciate everyone

 

I'd just pick up the reman caliper if its already seized... but you have to turn it with a large screwdriver, not push it in with a c-clamp.

That said.... if its already damaged, just replace it.

For bleeding... https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=925064

Thats my method. If the fluid is old, replace it all. Gravity bleeding is your friend I started using bigger bottles (2L liquor bottles) instead of the tiny plastic water bottles, just makes it easier.