Hey guys,
i was thinking about power and current dranage and heard it not a good idea to source to many electronics at one source which i honestly now about before, but wanted some help at where to hook up some electronics to some power srouces...i'll give electronics titles and you can tell me where to hook em up:

1- Wideband kit (LC1 and XD1) asked the guys on Innovate and i have an idea where to hook them up
2- LCD monitor
3- Defi gauges (Oil press, Fuel Press, Oil Temp, Boost, egt)...thinking on the light switch at the stage where dash interior is turned ON (NOT when the front lights goes on!!!)
4- DVD player (same stock power source)
5- 850 watts amp with sub and speakers
6- laptop (from cig power)
7- boost conrtol
8- turbo timer

thanks,
Km


Modified by IntegraTypeR at 6:36 PM 6/15/2006

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IntegraTypeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey guys,
i was thinking about power and current dranage and heard it not a good idea to source to many electronics at one source which i honestly now about before, but wanted some help at where to hook up some electronics to some power srouces...i'll give electronics titles and you can tell me where to hook me up:
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Who told you this?

Do you like ground loops?

Maybe your refering to not having all the devices on one wire?
Why would you not want to have all devices on one wire?

The answer to my question should help you decide.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1- Wideband kit (LC1 and XD1) asked the guys on Innovate and i have an idea where to hook them up
2- LCD monitor
3- Defi gauges (Oil press, Fuel Press, Oil Temp, Boost, egt)...thinking on the light switch at the stage where dash interior is turned ON (NOT when the front lights goes on!!!)
4- DVD player (same stock power source)
5- 850 watts amp with sub and speakers
6- laptop (from cig power)
7- boost conrtol
8- turbo timer</TD></TR></TABLE>

Um, they all have the same source ultimately... Your battery.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxxtreme &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Who told you this?

Do you like ground loops?

Maybe your refering to not having all the devices on one wire?
Why would you not want to have all devices on one wire?

The answer to my question should help you decide.</TD></TR></TABLE>

exactly! i dont want to put all my electronics on one wire!
for example its not a good idea to power the wideband on the access stage of the ignition key (thats the 2nd step on the key) since that gonna effect on the igition key lifespan!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C_EJ8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Um, they all have the same source ultimately... Your battery. </TD></TR></TABLE>

well i know that, but why make a mess and take all electronic source directly from battery? well am asking just so my electronics dont make any ground noise! like some amps do for example!

well there are empty places on my interior fusebox and want some sources where i can take them there and put a fuse for each device!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">for example its not a good idea to power the wideband on the access stage of the ignition key (thats the 2nd step on the key) since that gonn aeffect on key lifespan!
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Are you high? Most of the circuits in the vehicle turn on when in that position... Really has nothing to do with how long your key will last. If you meant ignition switch lifespan, then it's pretty much the same story... Not really going to effect it...

If you're that concerned about powering everything, create a common power point directly off the battery, and have it turn on/off with the key with a high-current relay.

Problem solved.

 

hmm....why do u think am high?....let me make sure what you imagining is what i meant....which point of the ignition key position?

1- Off
2- access
3- ignition
4- start

well most devices are ON on step 3 and on my last post i ment stap 2! generally there are so many power sources in the car (i know they are all from the heart source which is the 12v battery) like AC, Interior , lights....etc! honestly i wanted to make a distribution at the battery, but waqnted to here your guys advice first! well call me a newbie, but i know my electronics, but like to here your DIYs to confirm my knowledge!

 

All I was saying is that the number of devices hooked up will not have any effect on how long your ignition cylinder will last...

You could also get one of these wired directly to the battery, turned on and off by a high-current relay, triggered by whichever position of the key you'd like.

 

lol

 

thanks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C_EJ8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">All I was saying is that the number of devices hooked up will not have any effect on how long your ignition cylinder will last...

You could also get one of these wired directly to the battery, turned on and off by a high-current relay, triggered by whichever position of the key you'd like.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Current draw will effect how long a switch lasts. So he does have a point. Your mention of a relay will solve this problem.

The other reason for not putting devices on the same wire is to provide a second current path to the battery. This is usually done for high current devices. If you get a voltage drop across a wire 100A*.001 ohms =1V drop this would be seen by all devices connected to it. By providing a second path to the battery you will not see the drop.