I just installed my Blox intake manifold on my 99 SI along with a Hondata gasket. The car idles perfect and feels like it made a little more power down bottom but now when I hit VTEC the car feels like it falls on its face or has a flat spot.

Only mods on the car are AEM V2, AXLE BACK EXH. CROWER 1'S, AEM PULLEYS.

Could I possibly be gettin too much air to the motor and not enough out seeing that theres no header or mid pipe? Or did anyone have to adjust timing after installing a BLOX manifold?

I DID just play with the dizzy the other day and moved it a HAIR towards the firewall but thought that coulda be my problem so I put it back yesterday after I noticed the hesitation after 5500rpm, that didnt help much though.

Today I will shoot timing back to base w/ a lite and see if that helps.

Anyone who knows why this install coulda made it feel slower now, please chime in asap!!

Thanks in Adv

 

You're going to have to get it dyno tuned. Convert to OBD-1, get a socketed P28, and use crome.


Modified by mar778c at 6:04 AM 6/14/2006


Modified by mar778c at 8:17 AM 6/14/2006

 

I just need to ask this cause it's something i never understood, why convert to OBD-1? If using Hondata would he still need to do the conversion?
TIA

 

I'm not sure but to run hondata, I think you have to be converted to ODB-1.

The conversion to OBD-1 was to run a p28/crome ecu tune.

 

I would be willing to bet you lost quite a bit of power by puting that manifold on with that mild of a motor, especially without having it tuned. Not a wise investment for you at this point. Check this out, and this is tuned: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1654681

 

you have a stock header??

there is your problem...........

 

yay adjusting the ditributor without a timing light!!!

you have to understand these parts dont just bolt in. they need to be matched to your engine (or at least your plans) and tuned to get gains.

how many times have i seen "i threw together a bunch of crappy bolt ons and now my car is slower WtF?"

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mar778c &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm not sure but to run hondata, I think you have to be converted to ODB-1.

The conversion to OBD-1 was to run a p28/crome ecu tune.</TD></TR></TABLE>

isnt the newest hondata obd2 compatible? im probably wrong...s300 or something...

 

you're flowing more air but still using the same fuel pressure...i'd say you're running maybe a little lean. put on a fpr, chipped p28 with a program and get it tuned on a dyno . a nice flowing header can't hurt either
hope that helps

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xDEFTONESx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

isnt the newest hondata obd2 compatible? im probably wrong...s300 or something...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Just checked, Hondata S100, 200, and 300 require a OBD-1 computer.

 

Just checked my ecu and surprise surprise it's a p28
I knew it was chipped but didn't knew what ecu it was.
When my car gets here just have to get it tuned, then later will upgrade to s200
Tkx

 

I had the timing shot today & the guy said he couldnt really see the marks, they were a but dirty but if he had to guess it was close to 6*. He said it should be @ 12*. The car is almost 5* advanced now he said and still feels unresponsive?? So you think that too much air and not enough fuel?

 

go obd1, get dyno tuned. it might be an overkill with your setup. compare them while your at the dyno.

 

I'd say just get it tuned and get a header, even a dc would help you out. my thread that clean rice posted up should help you see where you lost power. You just simply have way to much air for the motor now, tuning should help quite a bit.

 

so tuned and a header maybe will help? Maybe it just moved my powerband so far up now ya know, maybe vtec need to be lower cuz of the cams?....

It just seems like vtecs not as dramatic anymore...

Thanks

 

Your powerband "supposedly" did move up. There's a diehard B16 manifold guy around here somewhere. I personally like my AEBS. I haven't had it dyno yet, or anything, though. You neeed a header. Badly. And get your car tuned.

 

Yeah Im lookin into crome as we speak. I just dont uderstand how one mod like my intake manifold coulda made the power band, especially when VTEC activates, feel so sluggish? I have no CEL's. Only thing is my idle issue once in a while, it idles very low like around 2-300rpms and sometimes stalls. Cant seem to figure it out. But say that was my problem I feel now, how could the IM have made the issue stand out more?

 

you cant just throw parts at a car and expect em to run good/right. that intake manifold shouldnt cause the idle to change, id say installer error on that.. but the crappy power, yeah i would 100% expect that with the other mods you have. an intake manifold on a bone stock b16 is gona be shitty, put a good header on it, tune it and it will make power, for a stock engine stock parts are good, one at a time usually dosnt do **** for anyone

 

ok,well I just bought an ITR header today along with a obd1 p28 chipped from phearable,now just bring it to a tuner and tune with crome...whatya think itll be like after that?

Yea I know the low idle once in a while isnt from that but the feeling of vtec being unresponsive is, and I dont think i installed it wrong everyhing else seems fine, no leaks or anything...

 

Call BLOX, or who ever you bought it from and talk to one of the design engineers, or the head of the dyno testing, they should be able to put you on the righ.t path

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DonF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Call BLOX, or who ever you bought it from and talk to one of the design engineers, or the head of the dyno testing, they should be able to put you on the righ.t path</TD></TR></TABLE>

So by your logic, he should be calling AEM, Crower, etc., the engineering heads of those respective companies and ask for what?

All he needs is some tuning and a header. He's running a stock ecu. I've essentially got the same set-up with a "sh*tty header", JDogg tuned it and it makes 144 whp 102 ft-lb.

I've seen this about N number of times and it comes back to the same solution, tuning.

 

Yea thats why i just got a chipped obd1 p28 and a jumper, im gonna be gettin it tuned in a week or so, but i just dont understand how before the IM it was fine than after it it feels like the VTEC lobes are less powerful than the non VTEC lobes?? Thats the real issue...

 

Without the manifold, it may have seemed okay but I would bet money you lost power. With the manifold, you lowered you motors breathing restrictions even more on a stock computer, thus leaning out and viola no power.

Unlike a lot people, you actually bought some components that will increase power. But to realize the increase you have to have it tuned. Anyway, good luck with tune and let us know how it turns out.

 

maybe youre running a bit lean since the ecu thinks that the mani pressure is a bit lower. u can buy a header, etc and still get more problems without tuning. just save up and get your stuff tuned so that it runs right the first time around. its just an imbalanced engine right now.

 

Just bought a p28 from a friend for $45, got a obd2b - obd1 conversion harness from another friend for $40, sending ecu to phearable.net to be chipped with a basemap for $75 (unless u guys know of a better place for chipping) and a Megan 4-1 2.5'' GSR Header... Then off to DRT for a tune!