Y7 block w/ Z6 head
I know several people have this setup, but if I remeber correctly there is a problem mating the OBD1 head to the OBD2 block? Something about the headstuds? The only reason I am going to use the Z6 head is I found a great deal on a rebuilt head.
P.S. I will be using a Y8 mani.
Thanks
P.S. I will be using a Y8 mani.
Thanks
the bolt lengths are kind of goofy. i think the long ones are a little too long and then the short ones only thread in the first couple threads and want to pull out when torqued.
so be cautious when you go to torque it down
so be cautious when you go to torque it down
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by quikcivic94 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i had this combination in my 94 civic and i got horrible power i just swapped it out for a full d16z6</TD></TR></TABLE>
Maybe I should keep looking for a y8 head.
Maybe I should keep looking for a y8 head.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lohatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the bolt lengths are kind of goofy. i think the long ones are a little too long and then the short ones only thread in the first couple threads and want to pull out when torqued.
so be cautious when you go to torque it down</TD></TR></TABLE>
this happen to me with stock head bolts with a d15b7 bottom end and y7 head, luckily i found out after the first bolt (d15 bolts). i used a set of z6 studs and just one was too long and required some extra washers. not big deal
so be cautious when you go to torque it down</TD></TR></TABLE>
this happen to me with stock head bolts with a d15b7 bottom end and y7 head, luckily i found out after the first bolt (d15 bolts). i used a set of z6 studs and just one was too long and required some extra washers. not big deal
I did a write up on this (on ohnda-tech) a long time ago... if you're interested I'm sure i could find it for ya. If i remember correctly i put together 2 motors...
one was a y8bottom/z6top with z6 mani/dizzy and everything else...
the other was a z6bottom/y8top with y8 everything else.
basically the 2 people i knew at the time swapped blocks and i did the work. I believe when i used the z6 head on the y8 block, i used the z6 head bolts; when i used the y8 head on the z6 bottom, i used the y8 bolts and didn't hjave a problem with any of the 2. both cars ran fine!!
i know you said your setup is a y7 bottom and it's basically almost the same as a y8bottom.
I believe the person who ended up with the z6 head/y8 bottom was happier with his car reaction to 7psi after the project was done!
one was a y8bottom/z6top with z6 mani/dizzy and everything else...
the other was a z6bottom/y8top with y8 everything else.
basically the 2 people i knew at the time swapped blocks and i did the work. I believe when i used the z6 head on the y8 block, i used the z6 head bolts; when i used the y8 head on the z6 bottom, i used the y8 bolts and didn't hjave a problem with any of the 2. both cars ran fine!!
i know you said your setup is a y7 bottom and it's basically almost the same as a y8bottom.
I believe the person who ended up with the z6 head/y8 bottom was happier with his car reaction to 7psi after the project was done!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iTe4LIFe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I did a write up on this (on ohnda-tech) a long time ago... if you're interested I'm sure i could find it for ya. If i remember correctly i put together 2 motors...
one was a y8bottom/z6top with z6 mani/dizzy and everything else...
the other was a z6bottom/y8top with y8 everything else.
basically the 2 people i knew at the time swapped blocks and i did the work. I believe when i used the z6 head on the y8 block, i used the z6 head bolts; when i used the y8 head on the z6 bottom, i used the y8 bolts and didn't hjave a problem with any of the 2. both cars ran fine!!
i know you said your setup is a y7 bottom and it's basically almost the same as a y8bottom.
I believe the person who ended up with the z6 head/y8 bottom was happier with his car reaction to 7psi after the project was done!</TD></TR></TABLE>
IF you could find that wirte up that would be great. I have been sifting through mini me posts looking for something like that.
one was a y8bottom/z6top with z6 mani/dizzy and everything else...
the other was a z6bottom/y8top with y8 everything else.
basically the 2 people i knew at the time swapped blocks and i did the work. I believe when i used the z6 head on the y8 block, i used the z6 head bolts; when i used the y8 head on the z6 bottom, i used the y8 bolts and didn't hjave a problem with any of the 2. both cars ran fine!!
i know you said your setup is a y7 bottom and it's basically almost the same as a y8bottom.
I believe the person who ended up with the z6 head/y8 bottom was happier with his car reaction to 7psi after the project was done!</TD></TR></TABLE>
IF you could find that wirte up that would be great. I have been sifting through mini me posts looking for something like that.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bense »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've been seeing a lot of threads with this question, so I figured I'd give a good answer in a thread with a thread topic that you can search for.
all sohc d-series from 88-95 have longer head bolts than the 96-00 d-series.
on all the 88-95 d-series, the bolt that goes nearest to the solenoid (rear passenger side corner) the mating surface on the cylinder head is raised, so that it makes up for the difference in thread depth on the 88-95 blocks. My only guess is because of the water passage is in the way of where the headbolt would be.
Like I said earlier, because of where the headbolt meets the cylinder head on the 88-95 heads is raised, we are completely oblivious to it.
I don't care what any of the threads have stated, or what your cousin's second uncle has stated. This is the correct information:
When using a 88-95 block and 96-00 head, you need 9 88-95 bolts, and ONE 96-00 bolt. Of course the shorter 96-00 head bolt goes in the corner where the vtec solenoid is or would be (passenger rear corner)
When using a 88-95 head and a 96-00 block, you need 9 96-00 bolts, and ONE 88-95 bolt for where the vtec solenoid is/would be.
As you can see, when people say to use the bolts for whatever head, that doesn't always apply. And to use the bolts for whatever block, that doesn't always apply.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
-https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1635057
all sohc d-series from 88-95 have longer head bolts than the 96-00 d-series.
on all the 88-95 d-series, the bolt that goes nearest to the solenoid (rear passenger side corner) the mating surface on the cylinder head is raised, so that it makes up for the difference in thread depth on the 88-95 blocks. My only guess is because of the water passage is in the way of where the headbolt would be.
Like I said earlier, because of where the headbolt meets the cylinder head on the 88-95 heads is raised, we are completely oblivious to it.
I don't care what any of the threads have stated, or what your cousin's second uncle has stated. This is the correct information:
When using a 88-95 block and 96-00 head, you need 9 88-95 bolts, and ONE 96-00 bolt. Of course the shorter 96-00 head bolt goes in the corner where the vtec solenoid is or would be (passenger rear corner)
When using a 88-95 head and a 96-00 block, you need 9 96-00 bolts, and ONE 88-95 bolt for where the vtec solenoid is/would be.
As you can see, when people say to use the bolts for whatever head, that doesn't always apply. And to use the bolts for whatever block, that doesn't always apply.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
-https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1635057
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