Push button start
i purchased a 94 eg not too long ago and it has a push button start. I think the button is old or just a piece of junk...but my question is to anyone who knows..will a s2k push button install rather easily? I have no clue on how the existing button is installed..im sure its low tech but i plan on keeping the car for hauling and racing since my s2k is of course 2 seater..any help would greatly be appracited!,,oh one more thing anyone hav or know where i can see a pic of a red eg with rota n1 black with red lip? im debating on them! thank you!
ok, I found my diagrams, but I don't have a scanner...so let me try and explain this.
There are 5 pins on the back of the S2000 button, you will need to use the 3 on the right hand side (looking at the back). The one in the middle (of all five pins) goes to ground, the second from the right goes to ignition, and the far right goes to 12V output to relay. I'm sorry, I can't remember what type of relay it is, I'll get back to you on that. But, the 12V output from the button goes to the #85 pin on the relay, the 12V constant source from the car goes to the #87 pin on the relay, ground goes to the #86 pin on the relay, and run a wire from the #30 pin on the relay to the starter wire on the car.
Since you have a 94 EG like me:
Ignition wire - black/yellow
Starter wire - black/white
12V constant - white
NOTE - other hondas differ when it comes to the wire color
the hardest part of this install is getting the hole cut correctly, the S2000 button has non-symmetrical grooves to prevent the button from rotating, its not just a round hole.
Also note - I did not cut any wires, I tapped into them, that way I can still use the key to start the car. I do still need to insert the key and turn to position II to start the car with the button, like it was meant to work. If you only want the button to work then cut the starter wire and splice in (again the key will still need to be turned to work).
Modified by polishrifle at 7:41 PM 6/12/2006
There are 5 pins on the back of the S2000 button, you will need to use the 3 on the right hand side (looking at the back). The one in the middle (of all five pins) goes to ground, the second from the right goes to ignition, and the far right goes to 12V output to relay. I'm sorry, I can't remember what type of relay it is, I'll get back to you on that. But, the 12V output from the button goes to the #85 pin on the relay, the 12V constant source from the car goes to the #87 pin on the relay, ground goes to the #86 pin on the relay, and run a wire from the #30 pin on the relay to the starter wire on the car.
Since you have a 94 EG like me:
Ignition wire - black/yellow
Starter wire - black/white
12V constant - white
NOTE - other hondas differ when it comes to the wire color
the hardest part of this install is getting the hole cut correctly, the S2000 button has non-symmetrical grooves to prevent the button from rotating, its not just a round hole.
Also note - I did not cut any wires, I tapped into them, that way I can still use the key to start the car. I do still need to insert the key and turn to position II to start the car with the button, like it was meant to work. If you only want the button to work then cut the starter wire and splice in (again the key will still need to be turned to work).
Modified by polishrifle at 7:41 PM 6/12/2006
The relay is a NO 30A/NC 20A/12VDC
PN: 961-1C-12DM
For those who haven't had a few semesters of electronics:
NO=normally open (circuit is open or "broken")
NC=normally closed (circuit is closed or "complete")
A=amps
V=volts
DC=direct current
It is very important that you use a relay, don't let anyone tell you otherwise. I found out the hard way, in less than a year my button had burned out (with no relay in the circuit), and I had to replace it. Thank goodness I had not cut out the key to the starter.
PN: 961-1C-12DM
For those who haven't had a few semesters of electronics:
NO=normally open (circuit is open or "broken")
NC=normally closed (circuit is closed or "complete")
A=amps
V=volts
DC=direct current
It is very important that you use a relay, don't let anyone tell you otherwise. I found out the hard way, in less than a year my button had burned out (with no relay in the circuit), and I had to replace it. Thank goodness I had not cut out the key to the starter.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM-EJ1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Wow. That's awesome. I also saw onetime where someone had a 'removeable' push button start. Would that be the same concept?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I could take it out and everything would work...but I would have a 1" hole in my dashboard.
I could take it out and everything would work...but I would have a 1" hole in my dashboard.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by polishrifle »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I could take it out and everything would work...but I would have a 1" hole in my dashboard.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Interesting. How much did the switch cost you?
I could take it out and everything would work...but I would have a 1" hole in my dashboard.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Interesting. How much did the switch cost you?
It was not cheap, around $50. I got it as a "kit" off of ebay, which means it came with the relay and some brief instructions. But its the actual Honda part, not a knock-off.
Of all the mods I have done and all the $ I have spent on my car, I get the most compliments on the button. Which I think is funny because it does nothing except look cool, but it is fun to start my car with it, and it never gets old.
Modified by polishrifle at 12:01 AM 6/13/2006
Of all the mods I have done and all the $ I have spent on my car, I get the most compliments on the button. Which I think is funny because it does nothing except look cool, but it is fun to start my car with it, and it never gets old.
Modified by polishrifle at 12:01 AM 6/13/2006
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by polishrifle »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It was not cheap, around $50. I got it as a "kit" off of ebay, which means it came with the relay and some brief instructions. But its the actualy Honda part, not a knock-off.
Of all the mods I have done and all the $ I have spent on my car, I get the most compliments on the button. Which I think is funny because it does nothing except look cool, but it is fun to start my car with it, and it never gets old.</TD></TR></TABLE>
lol. Sounds like it. I'll look into this.
Of all the mods I have done and all the $ I have spent on my car, I get the most compliments on the button. Which I think is funny because it does nothing except look cool, but it is fun to start my car with it, and it never gets old.</TD></TR></TABLE>
lol. Sounds like it. I'll look into this.
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 10,443
Likes: 2
From: Rochester, New York -> Santa Clara, CA
after you put the pushbutton start in, what's the deal with the key and stuff? like the original ignition system? How does that work? I know on the viper the car has to read the key on u for the start button to work but I don't think the S2000 has that......but what about the reg. key hole, radio mode adn such
If you have to insert the key and turn to #II position, isn't it more work. Isn't it easier to just turn the key a little more at that point than to push a button somewhere else. I imagine you still have to give it gas and push in the clutch. I guess it's just the cool factor like someone said.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by struppi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you have to insert the key and turn to #II position, isn't it more work. Isn't it easier to just turn the key a little more at that point than to push a button somewhere else. I imagine you still have to give it gas and push in the clutch. I guess it's just the cool factor like someone said.</TD></TR></TABLE>
There isn't much purpose to this other than to have that in your car; a push button start. It's a bling factor, nothing more.
There isn't much purpose to this other than to have that in your car; a push button start. It's a bling factor, nothing more.
Kind of an OT question, but if I have to get a new ignition switch pigtail/electrical portion (mines shot) will the push button thing fix it?
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1320931 (thread about the ignition switch pigtail)
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1320931 (thread about the ignition switch pigtail)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SkoundrelUSA »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Kind of an OT question, but if I have to get a new ignition switch pigtail/electrical portion (mines shot) will the push button thing fix it?
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1320931 (thread about the ignition switch pigtail)</TD></TR></TABLE>
Good question. My buddies just went out, I'd like to know this too.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1320931 (thread about the ignition switch pigtail)</TD></TR></TABLE>
Good question. My buddies just went out, I'd like to know this too.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM-EJ1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There isn't much purpose to this other than to have that in your car; a push button start. It's a bling factor, nothing more.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well said
As I stated earlier, you still have to turn the key to position II. But I hope for your car's sake you don't just turn the key through all thre positions at once. You should let the fuel pump do its thing.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SkoundrelUSA »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Kind of an OT question, but if I have to get a new ignition switch pigtail/electrical portion (mines shot) will the push button thing fix it?
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1320931 (thread about the ignition switch pigtail)</TD></TR></TABLE>
That depends what is wrong.
The stock ignition switch does a few things
-turns on accessories (position I)
-turns on power to everything else (position II)
-starts the car (position III)
The S2000 start button only operates the function of position III, so if the stock switch is not letting anything get power, then it will have to go, if it just won't start the car, then the button will help. But I doubt that just position III will not work and everything else be fine, typically the switch will wear out first on the other positions, or everything will go at once. Or its not the switch that is the problem, and has something to do with another part of the starting system.
Well said
As I stated earlier, you still have to turn the key to position II. But I hope for your car's sake you don't just turn the key through all thre positions at once. You should let the fuel pump do its thing.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SkoundrelUSA »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Kind of an OT question, but if I have to get a new ignition switch pigtail/electrical portion (mines shot) will the push button thing fix it?
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1320931 (thread about the ignition switch pigtail)</TD></TR></TABLE>
That depends what is wrong.
The stock ignition switch does a few things
-turns on accessories (position I)
-turns on power to everything else (position II)
-starts the car (position III)
The S2000 start button only operates the function of position III, so if the stock switch is not letting anything get power, then it will have to go, if it just won't start the car, then the button will help. But I doubt that just position III will not work and everything else be fine, typically the switch will wear out first on the other positions, or everything will go at once. Or its not the switch that is the problem, and has something to do with another part of the starting system.
this is how mine is. 1st/2nd work I'm assuming so because the radio/radar/cigarette lighter turns on. But 3rd position doesn't (cluster/clock doesn't come on). So my friend rigged the ignition wires (I'm not sure how) where the ground (white) and power (black/yellow) went to a toggle switch (like the "nos" switch
) so its like manually turning on 3rd position, then I'd have to crank to start it. I hope that makes sense
) so its like manually turning on 3rd position, then I'd have to crank to start it. I hope that makes sense
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SkoundrelUSA »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">this is how mine is. 1st/2nd work I'm assuming so because the radio/radar/cigarette lighter turns on. But 3rd position doesn't (cluster/clock doesn't come on). So my friend rigged the ignition wires (I'm not sure how) where the ground (white) and power (black/yellow) went to a toggle switch (like the "nos" switch
) so its like manually turning on 3rd position, then I'd have to crank to start it. I hope that makes sense</TD></TR></TABLE>
Position I is radio/radar/cigarette, thats what accessory is, position II is clock gauges, fuel pump, etc., position III is cranking the car over to start the motor running. Sounds to me like you need a new switch. What kind of car is it? Because if it is the same as mine, white is not ground, it is 12V constant and the black/yellow is ignition (position II), but like I said the wire colors differ between honda models and years.
) so its like manually turning on 3rd position, then I'd have to crank to start it. I hope that makes sense</TD></TR></TABLE>Position I is radio/radar/cigarette, thats what accessory is, position II is clock gauges, fuel pump, etc., position III is cranking the car over to start the motor running. Sounds to me like you need a new switch. What kind of car is it? Because if it is the same as mine, white is not ground, it is 12V constant and the black/yellow is ignition (position II), but like I said the wire colors differ between honda models and years.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by polishrifle »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Position I is radio/radar/cigarette, thats what accessory is, position II is clock gauges, fuel pump, etc., position III is cranking the car over to start the motor running. Sounds to me like you need a new switch. What kind of car is it? Because if it is the same as mine, white is not ground, it is 12V constant and the black/yellow is ignition (position II), but like I said the wire colors differ between honda models and years.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Its a 94 Vx. yea 12V constant is what I meant. and I guess that means my POS II is the one thats f-ed
Position I is radio/radar/cigarette, thats what accessory is, position II is clock gauges, fuel pump, etc., position III is cranking the car over to start the motor running. Sounds to me like you need a new switch. What kind of car is it? Because if it is the same as mine, white is not ground, it is 12V constant and the black/yellow is ignition (position II), but like I said the wire colors differ between honda models and years.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Its a 94 Vx. yea 12V constant is what I meant. and I guess that means my POS II is the one thats f-ed
Originally Posted by [img
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTI1Nzg5MjZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg[/img]
Modified by polishrifle at 7:41 PM 6/12/2006
Modified by polishrifle at 7:41 PM 6/12/2006
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SkoundrelUSA »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Its a 94 Vx. yea 12V constant is what I meant. and I guess that means my POS II is the one thats f-ed</TD></TR></TABLE>
You need a new switch
push button won't help you
Its a 94 Vx. yea 12V constant is what I meant. and I guess that means my POS II is the one thats f-ed</TD></TR></TABLE>
You need a new switch
push button won't help you
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SkoundrelUSA »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">crap... 
Could I keep my existing key?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I think so. If I remember right, the key lock is separate from the actual switch.
Not sure though, it's been a while since I hooked up my remote start

Could I keep my existing key?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I think so. If I remember right, the key lock is separate from the actual switch.
Not sure though, it's been a while since I hooked up my remote start


