here's my dyno from today. setup is stock jdm itr motor, toda header, rm01a exhaust, test pipe.
b18c 045 = my previous dyno with bc3+ cams
b18c10 = pro1 with stock itr airbox
dynorun4 = pro1 with hks filter
dynorun3 = pro1 with ek9 mugen air intake
frankly i'm dissapointed with these pro1's, the bc3+ killed it everywhere below 7k

 

Find someone that can tune and degree your cams properly

 

this wasnt on stock valvetrain was it?

 

Nice matching fuel curves.

 

air fuel curve is weird, i don't trust the dyno's wideband. i relied on my plx wideband during the dyno run, afr was at 13.1 to 13.4. nope this wasn't on stock valvetrain, i'm not stupid. i ended up with +4, +3. it seems these cams need more compression than 11.1

 

If it the same dyno and wide-band the numbers should be similar, then you match it to your guage. What was your PLX on the other runs?

 

Hmmmm...

 

Why not compute for your loss in dynamic comp thru this website.

http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/comprAdvHD.htm

Try to compare the ABDC of the buddy club and the pro's.

 

Like Matt said get it tuned.

 

FYI, it was just tuned! He used crome.

 

my plx readings were generally half a point leaner compared to the dyno wideband

 

Well at least the mugen airbox was worth the investment!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by an2ny888 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my plx readings were generally half a point leaner compared to the dyno wideband</TD></TR></TABLE> Not the question. Why are the DYNO wide band numbers so different? Was this the same dyno? then their numbers should match up. Then compare them to yours.

 

 

That car need to be tuned man.. what are your cam gears set at? Did you degree them in and tune from there?
I have 3 different 1.8 on pro-1's making over 200 whp..
Didnt I even give you a rough basemap to start off on the 214whp one i posted?

You over 1.5 point richer on the pro-1's in the area you claim the bc's beat them.. theres no comparison there at all.

 

guys don't mind the afr shown at the dynosheet. the dynojet used sniffers and it always gets slightly weird resutls. sometimes richer sometimes leaner. the plx however is around 13-13.4 afr @ wot.

we cant adjust both the intake and exhaust cams, we tried it but idle goes up and down....we tried both ways, adv and ret. strangely enough, it only idles at that cam setting..

we tried playing with timing to0. plus 3, minus 3, etc..

and for somereason, dyno readings down here in manila is a lot lower than dynojets in the states. b16a stock gets barely 130whp.

-ralph

 

tbone, that's the base map you sent. that was only run 3. we had less than 5 runs playing with the fuel and cam gears... moving the cam gears ate a lot of time because of the anti slip lock...

 

yeah i was using the stcorsa camgears, they're touted as one of the best, but they sure are a PITA to adjust when dynoing. camgears ended up at +4,+3

 

did you try the cam gear setting I told you to start at? +2 intake+4 exhaust?(degrees) the ex cam need to be advanced more then the intake usually.. On the 214 motor we baselined 175 whp .. ended up with 213.9 ish after tuning. Cam gears were worth like 12 of those whp

 

we started at +2,+3 and got 167hp, then we advanced the intake to +4 and gained 10 hp. i'm afraid to advance the intake any further, engine might go kaboom. i don't think afr is the reason the bc beat the pro1 in the mid's, i got 13 to 13.4 during WOT on my plx

 

is the swich over to vtec not very noticble cuz of the big primaries?i got a set in my lsvtec not tuned yet..and the change over isnt very diff at all...

 

??

 

Moving afrs from 12.5 to 13.5 aren't going to make anything but a minor difference.

 

i know

tbone, our first run made 167, advanced the intake to 4 from 2. made 176 instantly. so we tried adding more, thinking it will produce mo power, but it idles sooo bad. you have to step on the pedal to start the car

 

Your upper rpm looks a little choppy, you should try gapping your plugs a little closer. And or try the Rocket mod's.

Truth is the Pro'1 is not for every car in every situation. It looks as if you would have gone with a BC4 you you could have gained top end and have the same idle qualities as your BC3's

Everyone got excited about the new cam design on the Pro's but wasnt it BC that came up with using the larger primaries for midrange before Skunk. Skunk just went bigger, its easy to see why they make more power on big motors. but is it worth the trade offs, the Incresed lift and durration is going to wear parts faster, idle like poop and get poor gas milage.