Well a while ago I posted about having a horrible high idle at 3000 rpms. Ive been trying to narrow down the problem and yesterday I go about changing the gasket for my TB. I remove the MAP Sensor, TPS Sensor, Remove Intake, Loosen all 4 bolts and the TB comes off smoothly. I place the new gasket on and Im pretty sure its on correct unless im a complete jack *** (WHICH IS HIGHLY POSSIBLE AT THIS POINT) and I put everything back together just as it was taken off. I start the car and the car was cold and its revving at 5000 which is normal on a cold start for this car and in minutes it heats up and drops to 3000. Ive grown to live with the idle but as the engine warmed up the idle dropped to 4500 and stayed there. I looked for vacuum leaks and all and all the same as before. I though maybe I got the TPS and Map sensors confused. Not a chance the Map plug cant even reach to the TPS nor the TPS to the MAP. I removed the MAP and the idle drops down to 3000 once again and just runs plain and simple. I checked my check engine lights and these are the codes im throwing. P0108-Map Sensor(Its still unplugged) P0113-IAT Sensor1 and P1337 Ignition System or Misfire. Car is a 97 EK with a JDM B18C running on a OBD2a P72. Well I would love to take it to a hybrid shop or something but unfortunately im flat broke and I cant find the problem out and would like some help. If anyone has any to offer please hit me up at 301-332-0345 im located in Germantown. Someone have any solutions please help and bump for me.

 

Big update so yesterday I decided to clean the IACV and the FIV and I took a look at the gasket. The gasket for a 99 GSR Motor wasnt matching up and so I took my TB to Advance Auto Parts and looked for the correct Gasket turns out its from a 99 LS with a Automatic Tranny. Is this the possible reason why my idle is so screwed?

 

BUMP

 

Kmon guys Im so lost here its not even funny. So im here at the shop and im trying to figuire my problem out and the other problem is that my shop specializes in BMW not Honda but were still at this problem. We re ran the codes yesterday and I got P0108 P0113 and one other. Ill pull the code for that one later. So our first mission is to get the wiring fixed. They think that I have sensors mixed up and all which is highly possible because when I did my swap I just threw everything in. So last night my friend pulls out the voltameter and prints papers from ALLDATA and starts away with the wiring switches some plugs. He keeps asking me where the Crank Fluctuation Sensor wires are at im not to sure where the plug is but I do know that im throwing that code. So my rev is at 5000+ at cold start 3000+ at warmed up idle. Someone has to know something.

 

Bump

 

Since you have access to a scantool, what is the TPS % with the throttle closed?

 

Ok so I found out that the TOS % was 21% and its supposed to be 9.8%. Now instead I switched the TBs and the idle is alot better but the only problem is that my idle fluctuates from 1000-2000RPM. Im guessing now I have vacuum leaks. But my problem is that I test drove the car and there is very little throttle response. The car does not have the nice pull. It takes forever for it to accelerate. The only codes im throwing at this point are P1337 andn the Knock Sensor. Any ideas on the fluctuation and low power.

 

Sounds like the new throttle body TPS is set correctly since you're getting a hunting idle now.

P1337 = Engine Speed (RPM) Fluctuation Sensor No Signal: I'm guessing the tach signal from the distributor isn't making it back to the ECU - check on it. I don't have a Helms around me to actually check what the diagnositc routine is for that code, so I'm just guessing at this point.

As for the knock sensor - is it wired up? Won't a KS code cause some problems especially for power? When does it come on - upper rpm's when you're in VTEC?

As for the fluctuating idle: Does your throttle body have a FITV? Is it closing down after the coolant has gotten nice and hot? Yes - it really sounds like you have a vaccum leak somewhere.

 

I just found the computer to test vacuum leaks and later today ill check the codes but as I do remember the light would come on as acceleration would be given.