This weekend, a buddy is going to assist me as I replace the front shocks and both front driveaxles. I'm hoping we can knock this project out in 4-5 hours.

I have a couple of questions though. I am replacing the driveaxles because I noticed the clicking when turning and sure enough, the outer boots were compromised. So to be safe, I'm replacing both axles. Will bad cv joints also produce a noise while driving straightline? If not cv joints, could you give me areas to look at? Tie rods, wheel bearings, etc?

The car does not pull to either side, so I think the balljoints are fine. Should I leave them alone, or is it smart to replace the lower balljoints since the front end will be apart already?

Thanks in advance.

Aaron

 

what kind of noise are you talking about when driving?
But since your axles are bad anyway it is possible.
And I wouldn't worry about the ball joints unless you have any free play in them.

 

The noise could be tire/wheel balance issues. Almost like a pebble stuck in the tread noise. Changes with speed. I'm wondering if the inner CV joints are failing too.

To check ball joint, that's when I jack front end up and put my hands at 12 and 6, or is it 3 and 9? Then try to work the wheel. If there's play, it's worn. If not, I'm safe. Is that correct?

Thanks.

 

Lack up the car by the lower control arms then do 12 and 6. if you feel play at 3 and 9 you have worn tie rods.
If you replace the whole axle you get both joints with it and most manufactuers have a lifetime warranty on them. So I reccomend replacing the whole thing.

 

I figured, based on the car's age, the inner CV joints would probably fail as soon as the outers were replaced. So I ordered both driveaxle assemblies. So all will be new. Thanks for the responses.

I'll see what all the new parts do for the drive. I'm sure it will be night and day difference than what it is now. Should be a fun Saturday for me.

 

Does anyone know the hub nut size? I'm sure I'll need to purchase the correct sized socket to remove it. Could someone let me know what size? Thanks.

 

you mean the axle nut? it's a 36MM

 

That's it. Sorry about the wrong term reference. Thanks.

 

just being sure. I didn't want to tell you the wrong size
good luck!

 

Didn't get to do the work last weekend. The weather was less than forgiving as is rained the whole time. This weekend should be much better. Actually just the opposite. Sunny and upper 80s.

Pending a disaster, do you think my buddy and I can knock out replacing both front shocks and both driveaxles in an afternoon/early evening? 4-5 hours?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by amb4081 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Didn't get to do the work last weekend. The weather was less than forgiving as is rained the whole time. This weekend should be much better. Actually just the opposite. Sunny and upper 80s.

Pending a disaster, do you think my buddy and I can knock out replacing both front shocks and both driveaxles in an afternoon/early evening? 4-5 hours?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Give yourselves more time. Something almost always goes wrong. If nothing goes wrong, yes, I've done some Integras in about 4 hours before. But just prepare for the worst and be happy if nothing seizes on you.

 

I would think you and your buddy could get it done in that amount of time. Hope the weather holds out for you. Good luck

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by khunt0012 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">prepare for the worst and be happy if nothing seizes on you. </TD></TR></TABLE>

yep, if you prepare for the worst, you shouldn't be delayed much if a problem does arrise.

You may also want to spray some penitrating oil, like PB Blaster, on the nuts/bolts the day/night before to let them sit and disolve the rust as much as possible. May help to make things easier for the next day.

 

Well, if I have time Friday evening, I am planning on spraying all of the bolts/nuts with PB blaster and let them sit overnight. Then, we'll start on it after lunch on Saturday. I'll post problems or achievements after we're done. Thanks.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TouringAccord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

yep, if you prepare for the worst, you shouldn't be delayed much if a problem does arrise.

You may also want to spray some penitrating oil, like PB Blaster, on the nuts/bolts the day/night before to let them sit and disolve the rust as much as possible. May help to make things easier for the next day.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Two minds think alike. I must have posted right after you did.

 

haha, yep, 3 minutes after

 

PROBLEM....

Driver's side went like clockwork, considering it was the first time.

Passenger side drive axle was a little stubborn taking it out. But we managed to remove it. However, the Honda rebuilt one I purchased (looks like new) was a PTA to install. We had to use a small block of wood and mallet to get it to lock into the transaxle. And now I'm stuck. I cannot get the SOB to go thru the receiving end of the rotor/wheel. It's almost like the end is just oversized and it won't install. I double checked part #'s and they are correct. Is there something I should try to force it in, or is forcing it a bad idea? Please help, ASAP!! Thanks.

 

Here is another UPDATE...

Double checked the rebuilt driveaxle with the old one. They are the same, but the old one slides in much easier. So while trying to reinstall the rebuilt new one, I busted the inner CV boot. So now I have to replace the boot on the NEW REBUILT Honda driveaxle which fits like a POS. I'm rather pissed that the same part's specs can vary from one to another. This car is becoming fairly salty to deal with at the moment.

Looks like the wife will be taking me to work this week while my car is still under the knife.

Any ideas on getting stubborn son of a bitch driveaxle to install easier?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MooGoCow3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you mean the axle nut? it's a 36MM</TD></TR></TABLE>

i thought it was 32MM

 

For my 91, it was 36mm.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by amb4081 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">For my 91, it was 36mm.</TD></TR></TABLE>

alright, im wrong then...heh heh my bad

 

I would check the spline diameter of the new axle to the spline diameter of the old axle. Maybe they packaged the wrong axle in the box? I wouldn't think the manufacturing tollerances would vary that much on that part. Both parts are completely clean right? Sorry if these are stupid suggestions but it's something to double check.

 

I didn't have calipers, but I took an adjustable wrench to the one that seems too big and adjusted the wrench to it's diameter. Then I went over to the old axle, and it fit perfect. There was no gap or anything.

Here is the thing. The driver's side that installed easily obviously looked like a rebuilt, but previously used drive axle. The spindles had some surface rust to show it had been used before.

The passenger side rebuilt axle had no wear whatsoever. It looked brand new. Not sure if that would explain anything.

I have finally tapped out and admitted defeat with this one. I called Honda this morning and explained the situation. I'm going to reinstall the original driveaxle and drive the car to Honda Wednesday. They're going to repair and install the passenger driveaxle and both front shocks for $350. The price is a little salty, but not as much as it would be if I waste another couple days trying to get this thing on myself.

Plus, if the driveaxle does have the wrong spindle(s), I'd rather Honda figure that out. I'm sure the parts dept. would believe their technician over me telling them it's wrong.

Thanks for all the help though. If nothing else, this has been a learning experience for me. Thanks.

Aaron

 

UPDATE...

Honda replaced the front struts and passenger driveaxle the other day. All is wonderful now.

They called me mid afternoon to tell me they couldn't get the driveaxle on either. The service manager said it looked like a factory flaw. So they put a new inner CV joint on the rebuilt driveaxle and all is well now. I wasn't charged for the new joint either since it wasn't my fault. I'm glad I took it to the dealer. Who knows how long I would have struggled with it, had I not?