So I figure I should have my own thread by now.

Picked up my 1991 Honda Civic Hatch (Std) on 4/20/06. The guy I got it from got tired of messing with it. He couldn't get the engine he swapped in to idle right (replaced a D15 with a hole in the block). So after talking to him for about a month, I got him to deliver it with the old engine.

On the trailer:


At home....


It needs some TLC for sure. The front seats are shot. The carpet needs replaced. The engine didn't idle very well. The car wasn't capable of going over 10mph without choking. It has some cancer spots in the typical Honda locations. The tires are shot. No radio. Cracked windshield.

But I picked it up for $350 delivered. I was really just looking for a daily driver. And that's all I'm intending this to be. For now anyhow......

Bunch o' pics here --> http://gallery.digitaldeviation.com/v/justin/civic/

Comments are welcomed....


Modified by Deviation at 5:06 AM 6/5/2006

 

First order of business was to get the engine running. Thanks to all the smart people here on H-T, I found out that he had swapped in a D15B2. That of course needed a different ECU (PM5 vs PM9). $20 later she was purring. Well more like a tiger purring due to the lack of exhaust.

So once that was accomplished I moved onto tires. Since I couldn't find a decent deal on 13" tires, I went ahead and picked up a set of bronze HX wheels & tires....




Looks like its a 4x4, but I'm sure I'll fix that soon......

 

So I decided I wanted a tach. Since I don't care for those 5" glowing monster tachs, I opted for a CRX Si cluster....


Easy install thanks again to H-T.....

 

On to the rust. Since Rust never sleeps, I decided to cut out the larger cancer spots on the drivers side. Its amazing how much rust you DON'T see.

Driver's Side Rear 1/4
Before



After

(didn't have one after sanding)


Before


After

 

More on the body work.....

So I decided to go the Bondo route for rust repair. Mostly because at this point I don't have a welder and I've never done fiberglass work before. The again I've never used Bondo either. :D

I started prepping the rear driver's side section by sanding it down to bare metal with 60 grit (after I cut away the rust) sand paper. Let me say a couple things here:
1)3M SandBlaster sandpaper has to be the BEST sandpaper I've ever used. It lasts and doesn't clog. Worth the money.
2)Invest in a nice sanding block. I spent a lil extra change on a 3M block and its made this much easier. Nice & heavy, holds the paper very well and flexes (made of rubber).

Then I taped off the area with some 3M Scotch(you'll see this brand alot from me ) automotive painting tape (green stuff). Yes its different than the Scotch Blue Painter's tape. Its heavier and allows you to sand up to the tape without it ripping up. I also used a cheap drop cloth to cover the areas I didn't want to get paint/bondo on. The inside area got a thorough coating of rust convertor to help prevent the rust from coming back. Its like a primer so you have to sand it back off the outside area.

Mixing Bondo is a little hard to comprehend from the label. The instructions are one long run on sentence. Basically, use a about a 3" spot of filler that's 1/2" thick with a 1.25" strip of hardener. Mix thoroughly and work FAST as hell. This stuff sets up real quick. Only mix what you can work with in 3 minutes or less. Apply with a spatula/spreader. My thinking was its better to have a good buildup that I could sand down rather than a low area that I'd have to re-apply. Let sit for 30 minutes.

Fresh Bondo:


So after it set up I was back at it with the 60 grit. Its important to remember that you need to let the sandpaper do the work. In other words, don't press hard on the block. You want to work slowly to shape the Bondo correctly. Follow this with 120 grit and then 320 grit prior to primer. Pull the tape and remask off the area (clean paint lines).

The primer needs to be filler primer or etch primer. Chances are real good you'll have some pinholes. No worries though. The primer should fill anything up to 1/16" deep. Wipe the area down with some tack cloth (a MUST) to remove any dust. Apply the primer according to what the can says. Light coats work best.

Primed:


So that's where it is right now. I still have to take some 600 grit to the primer to finish it up. But that's tomorrow's project.

 

You should really get the whole rocker replace...look at the rust on the inside. It's only a matter of time before it comes out...corosion styles.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ludesrv &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You should really get the whole rocker replace...look at the rust on the inside. It's only a matter of time before it comes out...corosion styles.</TD></TR></TABLE>
There really wasn't much on the inside. I cut all of it out. If you're referring to the "pre-bondo" section, thats the rubber piece that goes in between the inner & outer fender (hard to explain). Its not rust, just discolored. The inside got a thorough soaking of rust treatment prior to the bondo (that pic is prior to that).

The larger area may get replaced.... Not sure yet.

 

Man, there's no way you got all the rust out of this rocker panel



Look how far in it goes. That should be replaced if you want it to last.

 

I meant the smaller area in the rear. Yeah that one is bad. I had to chop up quite a bit and there's still some hiding out.

 

Wow, great thread. I feel like I can go and get rid of all the rust on my EF now..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rayzian &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Wow, great thread. I feel like I can go and get rid of all the rust on my EF now.. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I wish I could say that too...*glares at his what used to be rocker panels*...I'll let a proffesional do it.


But remember, it's called body filler, no a body maker! Get some real metal in there.