I did a b16a swap in my 90 crx dx and it started up and runs, however it idles really high at first, and then after it warms up the idle drops way down to almost dying. It is also running really rich, rich enough to coat the back of my car with a film of black unburned fuel. I brough it to mechanics and the only thing that they could figure out was that the O2 sensors were bad and there was a leaky injector. So I changed the O2 sensors and all of the injectors. Then I had the timing checked and that is perfect. The Timing belt was replaced and that timing is good also. I replaced the spark plugs and right after I did that I started it up and then shut it off and checked them and they were all black and covered in carbon. I'm running a PR3 ecu. Does anybody have an idea of wtf could be wrong. I'm sure that somebody has had the same problem. I dont have a fuel pressure regulator, because that would only cover up the problem I want to fix it not cover it up with a fpr or a vafc or something like that. I have a PW0 ecu that does the same exact thing. It also boggs out in lower RPMs and then when it gets to higher rpms it gets better, but it is still alittle jerky when riding at a constant speed.

 

what map sensor are you using?

 

Hows that gas bill treating you??????

 

It says PR3 on it. I was thinking that maybe the mapsensor is no good. And I have checked for a vacuum leak and there is none. and all the lines are hooked up perfect

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90jdmcrxdude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It says PR3 on it. I was thinking that maybe the mapsensor is no good. And I have checked for a vacuum leak and there is none. and all the lines are hooked up perfect</TD></TR></TABLE>

where did you get the map sensor at?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90jdmcrxdude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...and all the lines are hooked up perfect</TD></TR></TABLE>

Maybe they arent? Post a pic of your vacuum line setup.

 

Im gonna say its your map sensor, just after i got my b16 swap done I was getting gas mileage close to what you were describing so check your ecu (its code five I believe) and try to get that **** fixed

 

probably fuel pressure regulator

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90jdmcrxdude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I did a b16a swap in my 90 crx dx and it started up and runs, however it idles really high at first, and then after it warms up the idle drops way down to almost dying. It is also running really rich, rich enough to coat the back of my car with a film of black unburned fuel. I brough it to mechanics and the only thing that they could figure out was that the O2 sensors were bad and there was a leaky injector. So I changed the O2 sensors and all of the injectors. Then I had the timing checked and that is perfect. The Timing belt was replaced and that timing is good also. I replaced the spark plugs and right after I did that I started it up and then shut it off and checked them and they were all black and covered in carbon. I'm running a PR3 ecu. Does anybody have an idea of wtf could be wrong. I'm sure that somebody has had the same problem. I dont have a fuel pressure regulator, because that would only cover up the problem I want to fix it not cover it up with a fpr or a vafc or something like that. I have a PW0 ecu that does the same exact thing. It also boggs out in lower RPMs and then when it gets to higher rpms it gets better, but it is still alittle jerky when riding at a constant speed.</TD></TR></TABLE>

whats your fuel pressure @?

possibly could be a bad map or FPR..

any dtc's?

make sure you have the plugs connected to the right sensors..

 

How are your o2 sensors wired?
It is very common to have them wired backwards..


Also see:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=404493&page=2

 

my Fuel pressure was good the mechanic checked it. Whats a DTC? And I only have a code for Knock sensor.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90jdmcrxdude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my Fuel pressure was good the mechanic checked it. Whats a DTC? And I only have a code for Knock sensor.</TD></TR></TABLE>

dtc=code

try swaping a known good map sensor in there...

 

id say eather map sencor or what happened on my ls swaped hatch when i got it, i got it already done, the person didnt realize, that the tps sencor plug is different on a dual point then a mp, the green and yellow wires have to be switched i belive, i got about 50 to half a tank. it was gay lol. u switch the outside wires or go cut a plug off a ls or si harness and wire it in... that was my problem

 

I put a new map sensor in and it does the same thing, I did figure out that the map sensor was not wired up, for some reason somebody clipped the wire to the ecu so I fixed that and the code went away. But now when I'm driving at a constant speed the car is kind of jumpy/jerky. I'll try switching the two outside wires on the tps and see if that does it, but I dont really know.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90jdmcrxdude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I put a new map sensor in and it does the same thing, I did figure out that the map sensor was not wired up, for some reason somebody clipped the wire to the ecu so I fixed that and the code went away. But now when I'm driving at a constant speed the car is kind of jumpy/jerky. I'll try switching the two outside wires on the tps and see if that does it, but I dont really know.</TD></TR></TABLE>


are you using the resistor box for your injectors? are you OBD-1? or OBD-0? also did you properly wire up the O2 sensor(s)?

 

Its Obd0 with a resistor box on the injectors. I checked all of the wiring and even went as far as just running two independent wires for the O2 sensors to their correct pinouts on the ecu. Does anybody have any ideas?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90jdmcrxdude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Its Obd0 with a resistor box on the injectors. I checked all of the wiring and even went as far as just running two independent wires for the O2 sensors to their correct pinouts on the ecu. Does anybody have any ideas?</TD></TR></TABLE>


well, considering it sounds like this whole operation has been mickey moused, its time to check all of your wiring

 

I just took all of the wire loom off and followed the wires and labled all of them. The wiring is all perfect. It has to be something mechanical

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90jdmcrxdude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just took all of the wire loom off and followed the wires and labled all of them. The wiring is all perfect. It has to be something mechanical</TD></TR></TABLE>


what injectors are you using?

 

i got the same problem but i also get an 14 code and ive changed the sensor and it still does it and i get the shutter when im crusing but soon ias i get on it it goes away.

 

it sure sounds like you all are describing the same problem, check your 02 wiring, my car with obo0 b16 did the same thing, only had one 02 sensor wired to wrong spot, they are reversed from normal hondas as far as 02 wiring goes, you need both.

 

They are stock injectors. I have checked the O2 wiring and its perfect, but I'll check one more time.

 

6 MPG WTF?!

 

Yeah its pretty fucked up I drove down to maryland like 300 miles and it cost me like $300 in gas

 

check your vacuum lines running from the charcoal canister to the throttlebody and to the map sensor, i had my backwards and it caused major richness,. also with some codes it will throw the car in "limp" mode til the code is gone or fixed. hope this helps. good luck