I have a 92 Vigor with a blown head gasket. I can get a 30-40 K mile motor (G25A) with a 6 month unlimited mile warranty delivered for $670.00. I feel like it would be a good idea to put another motor in it instead of a new head gasket and/or head in a 165 K mile motor. What does everyone think? Are there any other motors that would bolt up to this motor and tranny? All advice would be greatly appreciated. How hard would it be to put this motor in myself?

what are the specs on the factory rims on this car? (offset, etc)


Modified by DLittle13 at 2:18 PM 6/1/2006

 

First of all welcome to the forum.

As for your in-query I think it would be best if you got the newer motor. Before you drop the motor in make sure you replace some of the easy to get to seals and put a new water pump / timing belt in as well just to make sure the stuff is in good condition. As for the ease of installation it should be pretty easy as long as you can guarantee it will be a OBD1 it should be pretty easy to install. In-fact if it is from a vigor it will be even easier to install, although there shouldn't be too much difference of wiring between the G25 in the Vigor or in the TL. As for pulling that motor I cant really tell you because I have never pulled the motor out of a vigor but it looks like it might be kinda difficult because of its layout with the transmission.

 

i just pulled the motor out of another vigor that i am going to be rebuilding to put into my vigor.

i think me and my buddy removed it the hard way. we dropped the subframe (with wheels and axels and all) and lifted the front of the car and removed the engine. i'm sure we could've figured out an easier way, but we were getting tired...and since that tranny had to come out anyway, we decided to go that route.

i must say though, the head gasket on my vigor blew and i replaced it without having to pull the motor. and since i did the labor myself, it really only wound up costing around $250-300. if you decide to change the head gasket, make sure you get the head checked for any warpage.

i'm still a little new to the vigor myself but i'll give you any help i can.

 

CAN SOMEONE HELP me out on where to find the torque specs and so on for vigors. for the head

 

What matters the most is the mileage and overall condition of the "new" motor. You dont want to spend all of that money on labor and such and have it blow on you. I would say get the "new one" and touch it up a bit.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by moyo_rican &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">CAN SOMEONE HELP me out on where to find the torque specs and so on for vigors. for the head</TD></TR></TABLE>

http://www.autozone.com/servle...5.jsp

Autozone has a real good site for older vehicles. It contains alot of shop manual type info and can be found here: http://www.autozone.com/servle...EYear

Just put in your year and model and it should have some info to help you out

 

thanks good site but no service manuals for acura vehicles.

 

They have Haynes manuals for vigors and legends from 89 to 95. Quit being lazy and look them up.

 

The first link I sent you had the torque specs of the head at the very bottom. It is not my fault you didnt look at the links and want me to post it directly on here. As CompanyFlow stated you need to not be lazy, but I will be nice anyways here is the copied text for you on how to torque your motor:

Vigor

See Figures 14, 15 and 16

The radio is equipped with a theft protection program. Be sure the 5 digit security code is available before disconnecting the battery.

1.

Disconnect the negative battery cable and drain the coolant.
2.

Remove the fuel filler cap and loosen the service bolt on the fuel filter banjo bolt to relieve the fuel system pressure. Remove the banjo bolt to remove the fuel feed hose from the fuel filter. Remove the fuel return hose from the pressure regulator.



CAUTION
The fuel system may be under pressure and fuel will be sprayed. Be sure there is good ventilation and take the appropriate fire safety precautions.



3.

Remove the intake air duct and air cleaner assembly.
4.

Remove the throttle cable by loosening the locknut, then slip the cable end out of the throttle bracket and accelerator linkage. Take care not to bend the cable when removing it. Unbolt the throttle cable clamp and move the cable aside.
5.

Label and disconnect the fuel and vacuum hoses from the intake manifold.
6.

Disconnect the heater hoses and the brake booster hose.
7.

Disconnect the wiring from the ignition coil and the ground wire.
8.

Remove the ABS motor relay box and the battery heat shield.
9.

Remove the 2 bolts to remove the distributor. Be careful not to drop the collar behind the distributor.
10.

Label and disconnect all the wiring from the cylinder head.
11.

Disconnect the remaining coolant hoses from the intake manifold.
12.

Remove the intake manifold support brackets. The manifold will be removed after removing the cylinder head.
13.

Remove the oxygen sensor.
14.

Remove the exhaust manifold heat shields and disconnect the exhaust pipe from the manifold.
15.

Remove the support bracket and remove the exhaust manifold.
16.

Remove the cylinder head cover and the upper timing belt cover.
17.

Rotate the crankshaft to bring No. 1 piston to TDC on the compression stroke. The camshaft sprocket is equipped with TDC marks that align with the edge of the cylinder head.
18.

Inspect the condition of the belt. If it is not being replaced, use paint to matchmark the belt to the sprocket for reassembly.
19.

Loosen the belt tension adjuster bolt and push the tensioner against the spring to release the tension on the camshaft belt, then tighten the bolt again. Carefully slide the belt off the camshaft sprocket.
20.

Loosen each cylinder head bolt about 1/2 turn in the opposite of the installation sequence. This is important to prevent warping the head. Repeat until all bolts are loose and can be removed.
21.

If the cylinder head is stuck to the block, there are pry points near the No. 9 and No. 11 cylinder head bolts. Do not pry against the gasket surfaces.
22.

After removing the cylinder head, remove the intake manifold.

Fig. 14: Cylinder head and valve train-Vigor


Fig. 15: Cylinder head bolt loosening sequence-Vigor


Fig. 16: Cylinder head bolt torque sequence-Vigor


To install:

23.

Make sure the cylinder head and the engine block sealing surfaces are flat. Repair or replace as required. Clean all gasket surfaces and run a tap through the bolt holes in the block to clean the threads.
24.

Fit a new O-ring onto the oil control orifice and install the orifice and dowel pins onto the block. Lay the new head gasket in place.
25.

Install the intake manifold onto the cylinder head with a new gasket. Torque the nuts in a crisscross pattern in 2 steps to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm).
26.

Make sure the crankshaft and camshaft are both at TDC for No. 1 piston and fit the cylinder head to the block. Make sure the oil control orifice is properly aligned.
27.

Lightly oil the threads and washer surfaces of the cylinder head bolts and install them. Torque the bolts in 3 steps to 72 ft. lbs. (100 Nm) in the correct sequence.
28.

Install the intake manifold brackets.
29.

Loosely install the exhaust manifold bracket onto the manifold. Install the exhaust manifold with a new gasket and new self-locking nuts and torque the nuts to 23 ft. lbs. (32 Nm).
30.

Connect the exhaust pipe and install the manifold shields.
31.

Install the oxygen sensor.
32.

If the crankshaft was not turned while the engine was apart and there is a matchmark on the timing belt and camshaft pulley, make sure the marks are aligned and slide the belt onto the camshaft sprocket. If the engine has been disturbed and the matchmark is not usable:
1.

Align the white TDC mark on the crankshaft pulley with the pointer on the lower belt cover. Rotate the crankshaft slowly. If it stops, a piston is contacting the valves. Turn the camshaft to move the valves and try again.
2.

On the camshaft sprocket, make sure the UP mark is up and align the TDC marks with the edge of the cylinder head.
3.

Install the timing belt with no slack between the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets.
4.

To adjust the belt tension, loosen the tensioner bolt, turn the crankshaft counterclockwise about 1/4 turn, then tighten the bolt again. Rotate the crankshaft 2 full turns and make sure the timing marks and the TDC mark align properly.
33.

Adjust the valves.
34.

Apply silicone sealer to the ends of the cylinder head near the camshaft holders. Install the cylinder head cover with new rubber seals as required.
35.

Install the timing belt covers.
36.

Connect all wiring, hoses, vacuum lines and control cables. Adjust as required.
37.

Change the oil and refill all fluids. Run the engine to bleed the cooling system and check for leaks.


CLEANING AND INSPECTION

See Figures 17, 18 and 19

Although cylinder head service can be performed by most do it yourself mechanics, some operations are best performed by a competent machine shop.

1.

Refer to "Valves, Removal and Installation" in this section and remove the valve assemblies from the cylinder head.
2.

Using a small wire power brush, clean the carbon from the combustion chambers and the valve ports.

Fig. 17: Checking the cylinder head for flatness


Fig. 18: Check the cylinder head in all of these directions to get the best measurement


Fig. 19: Checking valve stem-to-guide clearance using a dial indicator


3.

Inspect the cylinder head for cracks in the exhaust ports, combustion chambers or external cracks in the water chamber.
4.

Thoroughly clean the valve guides using a suitable wire bore brush.

Excessive valve stem-to-bore clearance will cause excessive oil consumption and may cause valve breakage. Insufficient clearance will result in noisy and sticky functioning of the valve and disturb engine smoothness.

5.

Measure the valve stem clearance as follows:
1.

Clamp a dial indicator on one side of the cylinder head rocker arm cover gasket rail.
2.

Locate the indicator so movement of the valve stem from side-to-side (crosswise to the head) will cause a direct movement of the indicator stem. The indicator stem must contact the side of the valve stem just above the valve guide.
3.

Prop the valve head about 1/16 in. off the valve seat.
4.

Move the stem of the valve from side-to-side using light pressure to obtain a clearance reading. If the clearance exceeds specifications, it will be necessary to ream (for original valves) the valve guides.
6.

Inspect the rocker arm studs for wear or damage.
7.

Install a dial micrometer into the valve guide and check the valve seat for concentricity.


RESURFACING

1.

Using a straight edge and feeler gauge, check the cylinder for warpage.
2.

If the warpage exceeds 0.002 inch over the total length, the cylinder head must be resurfaced. Resurfacing can be performed at most machine shops.

As seen on Autozone repair guides at this link: http://www.autozone.com/servle...5.jsp