I drive a 1997 DX hatchback... no power brakes

I also have a totaled 1997 LX sedan... with power brakes

What wold it take to put these power brakes on the hatch and is it labor intensive or just a bolt on affair.
Has anyone done this and if so, is there a write-up... preferable with pictures.

 

Your kidding, right. 900+ posts and you dont know your car has power brakes already?

 

lol the dx xomes with power brakes lol.
im 99% positive

 

oh yeah how much are you wanting for that p28?

 

maybe he is talking about ABS??? :SHRUGS:

 

Using the LX brakes will not be an upgrade at all. If you want better stopping power, do what I did for my DX and get the following:

99-00 Si Front/Rear Brakes
Performance brake pads
Brembo Blank rotors
Goodridge Steel braided brake lines
99-00 MC & BB

...and now the car stops on a dime!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EL Vap133 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Using the LX brakes will not be an upgrade at all. If you want better stopping power, do what I did for my DX and get the following:

99-00 Si Front/Rear Brakes
Performance brake pads
Brembo Blank rotors
Goodridge Steel braided brake lines
99-00 MC & BB

...and now the car stops on a dime!! </TD></TR></TABLE>

I dont think he is talking about swapping all the brake components. I am not sure exactly what he is talking about, but surely not that.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sol2hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I dont think he is talking about swapping all the brake components. I am not sure exactly what he is talking about, but surely not that.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Then what is he talking about Mr Mind reader?

 

I know for a fact that the cx/dx/hx/lx share the same brakes (and they are all hyd. powered btw) there is one exception though and some lx's do have abs so that has to be what he's talking about.

 

No, I don't mean ABS, I mean power brakes.

I haven't really checked it, but I'm pretty sure I don't have power brakes.
On the sedan: barely touch the brakes and the car stops.
On the hatch: Needs a LOT more pressure on the pedal before it starts braking.

I did bleed the brakes
replaced the brake-pads/brake-shoes, and the rotors and drums are still good.

The drastic difference between braking performance lead me to believe I have no power brakes.

 

Open your hood, look at the brake master cylinder, behind that is your brake booster, that is what makes your car have power brakes.

Now lay your head on your radiator and slam the hood.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crixzc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Open your hood, look at the brake master cylinder, behind that is your brake booster, that is what makes your car have power brakes.

Now lay your head on your radiator and slam the hood.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I was just about to slam the hood, but I burned my hand on the radiator

Back on topic though...
The brake master cylinder looks exactly the same on both cars, but then what could explain the drastic difference in braking?

 

Oh my god. Do you realize how long it has been since a car was mass produced without power brakes?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM-97CX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Oh my god. Do you realize how long it has been since a car was mass produced without power brakes?</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's what if feels like, though.
What else can I check to make sure it works fine.

I already did the following
- Replaced front brake pads
- Inspected the rotors
- Replaced the brake shoes
- Replaced rear drum brakes
- Blead the brakes
- Put new tires on

 

lol @ new tires arn't gonna affect your braking that much hahhaha

 

of course they do... with old tires, wheels lock up a lot quicker and the car skids out of control. It's a lot more stable with new (wider) tires.

This, however, is not about tires, this is about my power brakes and why it feels like it doesn't have 'em.

 

Could be a bad M/C.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by d16rice &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I drive a 1997 DX hatchback... no power brakes

I also have a totaled 1997 LX sedan... with power brakes</TD></TR></TABLE>
The '97 DX and the '97 LX have the exact same braking system - not a single thing is different. They both have power brakes. All modern Honda cars have power brakes.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lowryder227 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lol @ new tires arn't gonna affect your braking that much hahhaha</TD></TR></TABLE>
You're a total idiot. I would go so far as to say that the tires are the most important component of the braking system because they are the only part that touches the ground.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by d16rice &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No, I don't mean ABS, I mean power brakes.

I haven't really checked it, but I'm pretty sure I don't have power brakes.
On the sedan: barely touch the brakes and the car stops.
On the hatch: Needs a LOT more pressure on the pedal before it starts braking.

I did bleed the brakes
replaced the brake-pads/brake-shoes, and the rotors and drums are still good.

The drastic difference between braking performance lead me to believe I have no power brakes.</TD></TR></TABLE>
just because you bleed the brakes doesn't me that there still couldn't be air in the system. A bad or leaky MC would cause a soft brake pedal. look for fluid around the push-rod on the brake pedal. A really hard brake pedal can indicate a brake booster is going bad. Last but not least make sure that the rear drums are adj correctly.

 

how wold I test to see if MC is still good?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by d16rice &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how wold I test to see if MC is still good?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Start the car push and hold the brake pedal down, the pedal should be hard and not sink much more than about a quarter inch after it stops. if it goes almost or all the way to the floor and you have to pump it to get it hard again, its a good bet the MC is going bad. Also look for fluid around the piston that comes through the fire wall and is connected to the brake pedal, you might have to move the carpet to see it. By the way brake fluid will cause the paint to bubble and peel cleen up any that might be there