SIR knuckle questions
i just got a set of jdm ef8 knuckles for my 90 usdm si crx. from what i have read i need to cut the inner tie rod about 2cm , can someone confirm this?
also im running raxels in the car now with a b16, will i be able to use these axels, or what type of axels are needed in the ef8 knuckle swap over?
thanks
also im running raxels in the car now with a b16, will i be able to use these axels, or what type of axels are needed in the ef8 knuckle swap over?
thanks
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nicks_jdmstyle_ef9 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am almost positive that you do not need to cut the tie rod and as for the axles you will be fine. Who gives you this information.</TD></TR></TABLE>
are you aware that the steering arm on the knuckle is different on the SiR/VT knuckles?
i cant confirm because i dont have SiR/VT knuckles, but i am aware of the difference and have heard others having issues with tie rod length.
are you aware that the steering arm on the knuckle is different on the SiR/VT knuckles?
i cant confirm because i dont have SiR/VT knuckles, but i am aware of the difference and have heard others having issues with tie rod length.
I could have sworn that the SiR knuckles are the same as 90-91 Civic EX and you don't need to do any cutting. The only thing you might need is a spacer to clear the brakes, depending on what wheels you are running.
that is definately not true.
here, i did a search for you. follow the link
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1550576
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1392234
here, i did a search for you. follow the link
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1550576
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1392234
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">are you aware that the steering arm on the knuckle is different on the SiR/VT knuckles?
i cant confirm because i dont have SiR/VT knuckles, but i am aware of the difference and have heard others having issues with tie rod length.</TD></TR></TABLE>
No I was unaware of that and thanks for informing me. Sorry
i cant confirm because i dont have SiR/VT knuckles, but i am aware of the difference and have heard others having issues with tie rod length.</TD></TR></TABLE>
No I was unaware of that and thanks for informing me. Sorry
some tie rods have enough adjustment some will need cut some will need cut and threded a little more. I would get a set of ex's, but thats just me.
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tyson is correct, the SiR knuckles have a different location for the tie rod end attachment point (its more inboard). I have a set of these lying around and have confirmed it. you will need to trip the inner tie rod end a bit for it to work properly.
your axles should work ok though.
your axles should work ok though.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike-y »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">tyson is correct, the SiR knuckles have a different location for the tie rod end attachment point (its more inboard). I have a set of these lying around and have confirmed it. you will need to trip the inner tie rod end a bit for it to work properly.
your axles should work ok though.</TD></TR></TABLE> this is what i was thinking,glad to hear that axels will work , got my information from https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1224755. thanks
your axles should work ok though.</TD></TR></TABLE> this is what i was thinking,glad to hear that axels will work , got my information from https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1224755. thanks
I'm sick and tired of all those that give information from some other source that ...they've heared about. If you didn't do it, not 100% sure, $hut up!
I have JDM SiR knuckles on my 89 Si hatch. The reason you have to shorten your outer tie rod end is that you won't be able to get your steering wheel straight. It'll be slightly off, Very slightly. You don't have to shorten them but again if you don't, your steering wheel will be afected.
Here's my write up.
http://www.angelfire.com/ca/DrOhm/SiRkuckles.html
I have JDM SiR knuckles on my 89 Si hatch. The reason you have to shorten your outer tie rod end is that you won't be able to get your steering wheel straight. It'll be slightly off, Very slightly. You don't have to shorten them but again if you don't, your steering wheel will be afected.
Here's my write up.
http://www.angelfire.com/ca/DrOhm/SiRkuckles.html
I just put the JDM SiR knuckcle on my 1991 CRX DX and now my toe-in is all messed up, can someone who has done the inner tie rod modification ( the cutting and the threading) please respond with how to exactly to make the modification? thanks.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by betonred »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just put the JDM SiR knuckcle on my 1991 CRX DX and now my toe-in is all messed up, can someone who has done the inner tie rod modification ( the cutting and the threading) please respond with how to exactly to make the modification? thanks.</TD></TR></TABLE>
http://www.angelfire.com/ca/DrOhm/SiRkuckles.html
http://www.angelfire.com/ca/DrOhm/SiRkuckles.html
I have been to that website already, I need more specific info. Which side of the inner tie rod do I cut, the part that screws into the outer tie rod? Where and how do I add threads to the tie rod? Do i need to take the inner tie rod off the car to do this? Anybody do this procedure?
I do.
DO NOT EVER UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCE cut the tie-rods. EVER.
This is your damned safety people! Don't half-*** it, and order new ones. If you can't find any, you'll need to order overseas. Tough luck, but that's the way it is.
I can give you some contact info if you need a set.
-edit-
This is one of those swaps that doesn't come with bragging rights. If you can't get the parts, do the EX swap instead. It'll give you the exact same brake setup, with alot less headache. I happened to have access to parts. Made my life, and swap, alot easier.
DO NOT EVER UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCE cut the tie-rods. EVER.
This is your damned safety people! Don't half-*** it, and order new ones. If you can't find any, you'll need to order overseas. Tough luck, but that's the way it is.
I can give you some contact info if you need a set.
-edit-
This is one of those swaps that doesn't come with bragging rights. If you can't get the parts, do the EX swap instead. It'll give you the exact same brake setup, with alot less headache. I happened to have access to parts. Made my life, and swap, alot easier.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SETI20 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I do.
DO NOT EVER UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCE cut the tie-rods. EVER.
This is your damned safety people! Don't half-*** it, and order new ones. If you can't find any, you'll need to order overseas. Tough luck, but that's the way it is.
I can give you some contact info if you need a set.
-edit-
This is one of those swaps that doesn't come with bragging rights. If you can't get the parts, do the EX swap instead. It'll give you the exact same brake setup, with alot less headache. I happened to have access to parts. Made my life, and swap, alot easier.</TD></TR></TABLE>
dude cutting them is fine, i did it on my old setup no problem. If u dont the toe in is way off and u cant get to to zero toe, i cut off 1" from both sides and alined it perfectly
DO NOT EVER UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCE cut the tie-rods. EVER.
This is your damned safety people! Don't half-*** it, and order new ones. If you can't find any, you'll need to order overseas. Tough luck, but that's the way it is.
I can give you some contact info if you need a set.
-edit-
This is one of those swaps that doesn't come with bragging rights. If you can't get the parts, do the EX swap instead. It'll give you the exact same brake setup, with alot less headache. I happened to have access to parts. Made my life, and swap, alot easier.</TD></TR></TABLE>
dude cutting them is fine, i did it on my old setup no problem. If u dont the toe in is way off and u cant get to to zero toe, i cut off 1" from both sides and alined it perfectly
IMO it's just not safe to cut away that much of the threads.
The only way to do this safely, is to bore and thread the rods again. Wich is a huge pain, and will land you in a world of hurt, alignment wise, if you doo it a little bit crooked.
I did mine in a shop with the help of professional fabricators. We opted to simply put new parts on it instead of butchering old parts.
The only way to do this safely, is to bore and thread the rods again. Wich is a huge pain, and will land you in a world of hurt, alignment wise, if you doo it a little bit crooked.
I did mine in a shop with the help of professional fabricators. We opted to simply put new parts on it instead of butchering old parts.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SETI20 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">IMO it's just not safe to cut away that much of the threads.
The only way to do this safely, is to bore and thread the rods again. Wich is a huge pain, and will land you in a world of hurt, alignment wise, if you doo it a little bit crooked.
I did mine in a shop with the help of professional fabricators. We opted to simply put new parts on it instead of butchering old parts.</TD></TR></TABLE>
dude by shortening it, you dont change the integrity of the part. I used a 14mm die when i was done to clean up the threads and it worked mint. By no way butchered.
The only way to do this safely, is to bore and thread the rods again. Wich is a huge pain, and will land you in a world of hurt, alignment wise, if you doo it a little bit crooked.
I did mine in a shop with the help of professional fabricators. We opted to simply put new parts on it instead of butchering old parts.</TD></TR></TABLE>
dude by shortening it, you dont change the integrity of the part. I used a 14mm die when i was done to clean up the threads and it worked mint. By no way butchered.
Thanks for the replies guys, now can someone tell me which end of the tie rod to cut?? The part that screws into the outer tie rod?? That end is 22mm so wouldnt you need a 22mm die?? Can someone post some specifics, Thanks.
P.S. I am going to have this professional done by a customizing shop, just need to know what to tell them to do.
P.S. I am going to have this professional done by a customizing shop, just need to know what to tell them to do.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boosted Chemist »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
dude cutting them is fine, i did it on my old setup no problem. If u dont the toe in is way off and u cant get to to zero toe, i cut off 1" from both sides and alined it perfectly
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I totally agree. I have originally taken the inner tie rod ends to the machine shop and had the threads extented on the inner tie rod ends a bit so that when you shorten the outer end of the inner tie rod end, you'll be able to move the outer tie rod end more in.
You don't want to definately be in a situation where you have few treads in locked in with the lock nut, but you'll see that's not the case with this mod.
BTW, JDM 4G civic/CRX outer tie rod ends are EXACTLY as the N.American.
That's why I don't suggest you cut them right away. Check how much roughly you need to take off. Thinking about it more, I'm wondering what position of your steering are you starting off with????? This could play a big role....
It is very interesting that some using the so called SiR knuckles which are identified with LH3-N on the left one and the RH3-N on the right one have such various degree of toe problem. When I bought mine, I saw them come off the car so I'm sure they where the SiR units. Perhaps there are others with the same marking but are not the SiR ones????
dude cutting them is fine, i did it on my old setup no problem. If u dont the toe in is way off and u cant get to to zero toe, i cut off 1" from both sides and alined it perfectly
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I totally agree. I have originally taken the inner tie rod ends to the machine shop and had the threads extented on the inner tie rod ends a bit so that when you shorten the outer end of the inner tie rod end, you'll be able to move the outer tie rod end more in.
You don't want to definately be in a situation where you have few treads in locked in with the lock nut, but you'll see that's not the case with this mod.
BTW, JDM 4G civic/CRX outer tie rod ends are EXACTLY as the N.American.
That's why I don't suggest you cut them right away. Check how much roughly you need to take off. Thinking about it more, I'm wondering what position of your steering are you starting off with????? This could play a big role....
It is very interesting that some using the so called SiR knuckles which are identified with LH3-N on the left one and the RH3-N on the right one have such various degree of toe problem. When I bought mine, I saw them come off the car so I'm sure they where the SiR units. Perhaps there are others with the same marking but are not the SiR ones????
I finally have got the inner tie rods off the car, they were actually extremely easy to remove, except for seperating the damn ball joint! I dropped them off at the machine shop today to be cut and have the thread extended. If you dont extend the thread there is know way you will be able to get your toe-in correct AND use the locking nut. Driving around with out a locking nut seems like something you would not want to do for long.
By the way my SiR knuckles were stamped with LH3-N and RH3-N, its seems everyone with these knuckles has the same toe in problem.
By the way my SiR knuckles were stamped with LH3-N and RH3-N, its seems everyone with these knuckles has the same toe in problem.
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