for those who didn't know, i had some bad shaking due to my lowering of the espelirs. (UNDER WOT FYI) I wanted to check out the little things first so i swapped out the CV cups from left to right. Thinking this was gonna be my temporary solution for the moment, it still shook regardless, but not as violent as before. I still didn't get my alignment for the car because like i said, its only under throttle engagement, and IF IT IS my alignment thas F'ed up, it would be shaking regardless if it was under WOT or not correct? i don't wanna blow my ends on something thats not going to correct the problem fully.

I'm about to give in and bring it to the stealership for a diagnostic test. Im assuming its probably gonna cost me close to a bill or so, since i've never brought my car for any type servicing there what so ever. But this to you is my question. When they run the test, WILL THEY FIND THE PROBLEM? is there a slight chance they won't find anything and im out 75-100 bux? Should I just go and Align it since its "mandatory" after a drop? Since im NOT under warranty and never it was, im not entitled to swap out the springs for the stock ones correct? Let me know guys, thanks. I appreciate the time you guys took to read this.

 

is your sway bar on right?

any problem with the wheel weights?

their the first two ideas i can think of now.

 

sway bar should be on correctly. it was never touched from the drop. It only happened right when i dropped the car like a month or two ago. Wheel weights. I was missing some for the rear, but i got that corrected and it stopped the shaking a little bit, but not much of an improvement

 

Wheel/tire balancing, like Frank said.

Axle nut needs tightening?

Alignment would be a possibility. A skewed alignment would show signs upon compression of the suspension during weight transfer, ie. if your front alignment is bad, it would shake/wobble under hard braking. Inversely, if your rear alignment is out messed up, WOT would shift the weight to the rear, compressing the suspension.

BUT, since the rear wheels do not turn, there shouldn't be any play in it. Check all the fasteners/bolts that attaches your hub to your suspension arms, see if any is loose enough to induce wobbling under compression. Again, it's only a guess.

Good luck.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by OBSeRiouso &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sway bar should be on correctly. it was never touched from the drop. It only happened right when i dropped the car like a month or two ago. Wheel weights. I was missing some for the rear, but i got that corrected and it stopped the shaking a little bit, but not much of an improvement </TD></TR></TABLE>

A friend's AP1 had the same problem. After re-raising his car, rebalancing his wheels, tightening the axle nut, checking the rear suspension, it's been reduced to 'barely noticeable' status. I've concluded that his half-shaft CV joints are worn, and the problem will not remedy itself until the half-shafts are replaced.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by OBSeRiouso &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sway bar should be on correctly. it was never touched from the drop. It only happened right when i dropped the car like a month or two ago. Wheel weights. I was missing some for the rear, but i got that corrected and it stopped the shaking a little bit, but not much of an improvement </TD></TR></TABLE>

did you get an alignment yet?

i messed around with my alignment setting in the ap2 one day. i had about 3'' camber in the rear and too much toe out. my car shook violently going streight and handled like crap.

im not back to the euro alignment.

i suggest an alignment

 

check the LCA bushings

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FR-MOB: Projekt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Wheel/tire balancing, like Frank said.

Axle nut needs tightening?

Alignment would be a possibility. A skewed alignment would show signs upon compression of the suspension during weight transfer, ie. if your front alignment is bad, it would shake/wobble under hard braking. Inversely, if your rear alignment is out messed up, WOT would shift the weight to the rear, compressing the suspension.

BUT, since the rear wheels do not turn, there shouldn't be any play in it. Check all the fasteners/bolts that attaches your hub to your suspension arms, see if any is loose enough to induce wobbling under compression. Again, it's only a guess.

Good luck.</TD></TR></TABLE>

the axle nut in which it needs to be retorqued to 225 foot lbs or somethign like that correct? someone suggested that but i never got the chance to do it unfortuantely, correct me if thas the wrong piece.

 

Yes, 220 lb/ft.

 

^^^ i'll try that. thanks fellas once again.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FR-MOB: Francesco &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

did you get an alignment yet?

i messed around with my alignment setting in the ap2 one day. i had about 3'' camber in the rear and too much toe out. my car shook violently going streight and handled like crap.

im not back to the euro alignment.

i suggest an alignment </TD></TR></TABLE>

I'll look into the alignment once again. Out of curiosity, what is the Euro alignment again? You meant to say, "im "now" back to the euro alignment correct?

 

i had a similar problem with my integra, under WOT it would shake, sometimes it was a little bit, but sometimes the steering wheel would go nuts,

i never solved this problem, but i checked everything, except the only two things i didn't inspect was the hub, and the hub bearings.

do you get wheel hop?

is it the front wheel or rear wheel,?

 

^^^^oh yes, we talked about this a month ago. No wheel hop. I feels like its coming from the rear, but I can't really tell now because once it shakes, the whole passenger side door shakes very fuking loud.

Could there be play in the passenger side? My girl says she feels it most in the front rightside, but that can't be possible, because my mechanic and I jacked up my car from the side and rear and let the Rear wheels run off the ground and it indeed shook after 40. Hmmm.

 

good luck man. my rear spring pops when i take bumps and things, its annoying. their also espelir.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by OBSeRiouso &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> because my mechanic and I jacked up my car from the side and rear and let the Rear wheels run off the ground and it indeed shook after 40. Hmmm.</TD></TR></TABLE>


did you buy the s new?

are there any signs of a previous crash? maybe, missaligned rear end

have you checked out all the differential mounts?

 

from what i know, i believe the previous owner lowered the car, there for stressing the CV joint housings as is, and when i bought it, he put the stocks back in there for "un-stressing" teh load on the joints, thas why i coudn't feel anything at stock height, but once i re-lowered it, it caused teh joints to act retarded again. Thas what i think.

 

did he or youget an alignment since putting back to stock, last resort,

you might have to take it to honda..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SilverDc2-Ap1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did he or youget an alignment since putting back to stock, last resort,

you might have to take it to honda.. </TD></TR></TABLE>

no alignment at all what so ever. I'm gonna bring this in to the alignmnet shop sometime this week to take care of it to "alleviate the stress as is" I hope this might help the shaking a little bit.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hondageek &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> good luck man. my rear spring pops when i take bumps and things, its annoying. their also espelir.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Make sure the springs are properly in their seats; there's a groove it's supposed to sit in.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by OBSeRiouso &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I'll look into the alignment once again. Out of curiosity, what is the Euro alignment again? You meant to say, "im "now" back to the euro alignment correct? </TD></TR></TABLE>

run a search, i don't have the specs right now.

its the OEM Euro s2000 alignment

 

okay, i got the Euro Spec alignment sheet.

So this is my new question. Of course i want a tighter feel around cornering, so since im gonna get my car aligned anyways, do you guys think It would be smart if I mess around with the alignment by running the Euro Specs? of course it'll be better than what i am running right now right since the car was never properly aligned to begin with after the drop correct?

To make it short...

Regardless of Euro Spec or US Factory Spec, these alignments "may" fix the problem to what im having. Maybe? Or am I better off just running the US factory spec and keep it safe?


Modified by OBSeRiouso at 2:32 PM 5/31/2006

 

run euro, test it out. chances are it will fix it. if not go back to US specs.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by OBSeRiouso &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">okay, i got the Euro Spec alignment sheet.

So this is my new question. Of course i want a tighter feel around cornering, so since im gonna get my car aligned anyways, do you guys think It would be smart if I mess around with the alignment by running the Euro Specs? of course it'll be better than what i am running right now right since the car was never properly aligned to being with after the drop correct?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

its not going to do any harm.

all the euro alignment does is increase some of the settings in the rear. your rear tires may wear a little faster depending on how you drive.

this alignment setting gives the car a more "neutral" feel. thats the only way i can describe it. i like it much better than the US spec, but you may not.

 

After checking with all the suggestions above, if the vibrations still come up, drop the rear.

Open up the diff case, clean off everything and start looking for cracks in the diff carrier. Something tells me you have a diff trying to pivot out because it's loose in the carrier. It shows itself under heavy to moderate acceleration. If it persists, it will grow into a vibration on ANY gas. Then the carrier will either give way, or the diff will have moved off center enough to cause damage to the ring and pinion gear. The damaged ring and pinion will flake off as metal bits and those metal bits will ultimately be the end of your current rear end.

Hope I'm wrong though.

Have a nice day.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Luder94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">After checking with all the suggestions above, if the vibrations still come up, drop the rear.

Open up the diff case, clean off everything and start looking for cracks in the diff carrier. Something tells me you have a diff trying to pivot out because it's loose in the carrier. It shows itself under heavy to moderate acceleration. If it persists, it will grow into a vibration on ANY gas. Then the carrier will either give way, or the diff will have moved off center enough to cause damage to the ring and pinion gear. The damaged ring and pinion will flake off as metal bits and those metal bits will ultimately be the end of your current rear end.

Hope I'm wrong though.

Have a nice day.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ive nevr heard of that before, but thanks for bringing that suggestion up.

What would cause the diff to be loose though?