EDITED WARNING:
This modification has been done to a base model 5th gen. I am not sure of the effects which will take place if this is done to an SH model. Proceed with caution.

This is just going to be really quick, it gets to a point to where i really didnt feel like taking pictures because alot of it is just removing clips and removing hardlines. Anyway, theres a pretty big difference between just running without the belt and having the lines looped. Much easier to drive and the engine bay looks much better.

You will need to buy only once part for this.


All it is is a attachment for the air compressors. Nothing big. I think the pack of 2 was $1.99

Your going to want to get out as much fluid from the start as possible. I didnt do it the way im about to explain because i was stupid and not thinking, lol.

First off, jack the car up enough that you can crawl underneath. REMEMBER TO USE JACKSTANDS. Dont be stupid. Be safe!

Remove the main PS line from the PS pump.


With the line off, turn the car on. Make sure the PS line is in a bucket or some kind of oil catch. With the engine on and the wheels off the ground, turn the wheel back and forth to pump all of the fluid out. It may help to use two people with this because once the fluid is all out, you are going to want to shut the car off immediately to stop the pumping. I guess if you dont care about damaging the pump then the last statement is void

Remove the top mount bolts:




Now remove the bottom mount bolt


After removing the mount bolts, pop off the belt and get it out of the way, you will not need it anymore.

Next you can work on taking the PS bracket off


Next on the list is to remove the bolts holding the cooler to the car



You will need to remove this bolt as well


At this point, i stopped taking pictures momentarily because it was just unhooking hoses and pulling pieces off. You will need a 10mm socket to remove the lines from the cooler.

In order to keep the fluid from going everywhere, i used an oil bucket. Just like one of those that you can buy at autozone. It really helps minimize the cleanup. Cuz it can get messy FAST!

Now you need to get under the car. There is another 10mm bolt/bracket holding the hardline coming from the cooler. Remove that. Then follow the hardline until it goes to a regular PS line. You will want to cut the line. The line you just cut goes to the top of the steering rack.


You are going to be using that line to run to the attachment that you bought. There is likely to still be a little fluid in the line so make sure to have that oil catch nearby.

Now get out from under the car and locate the steering rack from the top part of the engine bay. Its on the driver side right below the intake manifold. You want to remove the bottom "bolt" from the valve body. This is your high pressure line that runs to the PS pump. remove that and the 10mm bracket holding the line down. You will be able to remove the main PS line after that "bolt" is removed.

Take your air compressor attachment that you bought and wrap the thread in teflon tape. This will ensure a good seal and no leaks.

There needs to be a little fluid in the lines so be sure to add some before doing this last part.

Now take the line you cut and put it on the attachment. You can use some of the clamps you just removed to keep the line on the adaptor piece.

When you are done, it should look a little like this


If any of this is unclear, let me know. I just got off work and i dont feel like re reading it.




Modified by 98vtec at 1:17 AM 7/6/2006

 

I think I understand, but I'm curious as to what my steering will be like with looped lines vs having all my PS stuff connected and working

 

its really not all that bad. I ran around with my belt for a few days and kinda got used to it. But of course its going to be a big difference between PS and looped lines. But really, from what i have found just by driving today is its only a little rough when the car is stopped. When the car is moving, it feels much better without ps. Just feels like i can sense the road better and i can feel what the car is actually doing.

this is in a 5th gen as well.


oh, and all you are doing with this is completely removing everuthing that has to do with ps, cutting the high pressure line and putting that line on the adaptor.

 

i'll get a finished product picture up tomorrow as well

i did something a little different with the alternator harness. looks much better than just sitting out in the open looking all ugly.

 

i have an idea where this pictures is. what i did was just remove everything until i got to the back of the motor. those 2 lines i just looped them. is thats what u did?

 

 

end product:

 

hahaha..just seen those on sho about 1 min ago. hahaha


*****

 

Good stuff 98vtec. Getting it back to where we used to be.

Do you know how the loss of powersteering affects the 4ws functionality though. Never really looked into that. I would assume it would be less effective with slow speed parking turning etc etc.

 

i realy dont know what would happen to 4ws. My guess would be that it would still be there, just without power assist.

 

i bet that would be a beast to turn.

 

I'm surprised you still have the cruise control...but did you notice a difference in power to the wheels because there's no longer a drag on the ps?

 

it "appears" to be a little more peppy. But that is all based on a butt dyno and we all know how gay butt dyno's are. I mean im sure i gained minimal hp but the little things start to add up eventually.

i cant decide on CC yet. I use that **** everytime i am on the interstate/highway. I might just take it off, but not remove all of it. That way i can just bolt the unit back on if i go on a trip. We'll see tho. I also said that i could never lose ps or ac and look what happened

 

why do you guys think it woudl be a bitch to turn a 4ws cra with p/s removed? it wouldn't be any different than a regular car w/ no p/s. 4ws is electronically controlled, the force you direct towards the steering wheel applies no direct force to teh rear wheels. various sensors pick up your driving speed, turning angle, turning speed, and the 4ws ecu tells the rear wheels what way to turn and how far and how fast etc by way of an electronically controlled motor, not a mechanically controlled unit (i.e. not mechanically connected to the steering wheel)

 

thanks for clearing that up.

 

Ive been riding around in my 5th gen SH with the PS belt off, and low speed maneuverability is completely gone. If i had to get out of the way of another car or person in a parking lot, i wouldn't be able to do it in a safe and quick manner. Im still kinda on the fence about the PS thing. It feels better on the freeway, and normal driving, but if i were to auto x with some real tight low speed turns, i would be fuxored. Im not weak by any means, and can handle it just fine, but low speed parking lot situations suck *** with no PS.

Not sure how it feels with looped lines, as i want to maintain the resale value of my car, i havent removed any lines or anything like that. I tried reinstalling the belt but the pump just turned all my PS fluid to foam and puked it up all over the garage. lol.

 

lol. Yea it really sucks to drive the car around without the belt on. I did it for a few days before i looped the lines and there is definitely a difference. I mean its not "easy" by any means, but its definitely easier than just running without the belt. What i do in parking lots is this. As i am backing up, i straighten the wheel as i come to a stop to go forward. that way i dont have to turn the wheel at a dead stop. Then as soon as i start rolling forward, its easy to turn.

Matt (mgags) did a write on how to basically gut the valve body to allow for more fluid to pass through at a time. I'm prolly gonna end up doing that eventually. But i really dont feel like messing with it for now.

 

Excellent write up. Nice to see more people doing this and liking it!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Matt (mgags) did a write on how to basically gut the valve body to allow for more fluid to pass through at a time. I'm prolly gonna end up doing that eventually. But i really dont feel like messing with it for now. </TD></TR></TABLE>

He, and skidtron, did a write up on how to convert a power steering rack to manual. There is no fluid moving, unless you're talking about the lube inside the rack. It's all mechanical now.

I plan on doing this instead of looping, breathing lines. I just need time and a garage for it...

 

What about actually converting the rack to manual? As in, like an actual manual rack? There is still slop in the steering column without PS, and I'm pretty sure all power racks use a quill shaft-type assembly for the power steering thing.

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1517004

 

removing the whole system is a whole world different than just driving with the belt off. i drove with my belt off for weeks before i decided i could live with it out. when i got it all out i realized i can hardly tell unless i'm trying to do a 3 point turn or get out of a tight parking space. i also did the manual rack conversion from a writeup on this site... i recommend it.

 

I've been driving with out a PS system for about 3 years now. Its like second nature to me. Of course this car is my beater/workhorse. I'd never dream of taking PS out of my "nice" car. If its your only car you might wanna rethink removing the amenities.

 

about to start on this, anyone else have any remarks/comments about theres?

 

I'd be very careful using that brass barb adapter. It's more than likely an NPT thread, and the fittings on the PS rack are M14x1.5 and M16x1.5, IIRC. Using that adapter will probably render the PS fitting useless if you want to change back to PS.

It is a bit more work to convert the rack to manual, but I think in the long run, if you want to run with the PS setup, I'd suggest converting the rack. It's really not that hard to take out.

I've run a converted rack in my track car for 1.5 years or so.